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Gary, you will find this tidbit intersting. When I had to go in a rebuild the engine in my 66 GT350 due to a good friend losing the drain plug on I-64, I found the original Mustang Ford VIN stamped in the block upside down behind the alternator. 6R09K225398. 6-model year, R-San Jose assembly plant, 09-2DR fastback, K-HiPo 289, 225398-consecutive unit number.

Rene' The normal O2 sensor is a narrow band device, it produces a voltage signal related to the % O2 in the ehaust stream. I was trying to find a diagram of the voltage curve, but came across this: Why do O2 sensors fail? Since the oxygen sensor is in the exhaust stream, it can become contaminated. Common sources of contamination include an excessively rich fuel mixture condition or oil blow-by in an older engine and engine coolant being burnt in the combustion chamber as a result of an engine gasket leak. It is also exposed to extremely high temperatures, and like any component can wear over time. These can all affect the oxygen sensor’s response characteristics, resulting in an extended response time or a shift in the sensor voltage curve and in the long run reduced sensor performance. Hopefully this will at least help. Are you running a heated O2 sensor? Is it still in the original 1986 location? The paragraph above would lead me to agree with Gary the O2 sensor may be bad.

Once you go to EFI the factory intake is aluminum. As Jim says, good gaskets and I will add, proper torque and sequence.

Mat, I had a similar issue with the C6 in my 1977 F150 that I had a Camper Special 390 in. First time I really got on it, it floated the valves, it was built by an AAMCO shop in payment for a K4C025 M-B transmissiom I built for them. Core was apparently from a high perfofmance 390 or 428. They put a heavier weight governor in it, and no over rev shifts, but occasionaly it would not downshift at a stop. A bottle of Trans-Medic solved that.

Jim, before Gary bought BB, he was looking at a picture of Darth underhood and asked how high they had to drop the 460 from to get it in. Then all the issue trying to get headers to fit, not hit anything and not leak (and he wonders why I do not want headers on Darth). Darth has actually better access than my 1977 F150 did around the 390 I put in it using factory mounts and accesory brackets. Number 4 plug was a pain to get at with AC system casing.

Ian, a flywheel is a large generally iron or steel piece somewhere between 1/2 - 3/4" thick that helps smooth out the engine pulses. A flex plate is much thinner, frequently with open sections as it has either a torque converter or fluid coupling bolted to it. The mass of fluif in the attached coupling or converter provides the needed smoothing of the engine pulses.

Gary, the mount is part of the timing cover on the older engines and was used at least through 1957 cars, and possibly trucks. A couple of items, the cam gear if I remember correctly is phenolic (it's been years since I built Sonny Tesh's 235 for his 1954 Corvette.) Carburetor should be a Rochester B from a truck, car would be a BC, hot air choke. If you can find an iron case Powerglide they had a torque tube driveline through 1954 I believe.

Jim, they don't have a case spreader for the 10.25" Sterling, When I did my friend's axle, I just ended up driving the shims in, unfortunately I don't remember if I was ever able to get the shim driver. I do have the tool kit for the axle including 3 different seal installation tools. If the kit didn't weigh a ton, I would send it up to you.

Darth's was/is aluminum with crimped on plastic tanks.

Marti can replace it for you. Mine, being a crew cab, had the sticker on the back face of the left front door. I ordered a deluxe Marti report and a new door sticker. Here is my original door sticker: Here is the new one from Marti:

Now I just need to see if I can find some others, like Carter, Stromberg and Rochester.

I have been back and forth with a gentleman on Facebook, who primarily as a hobby, restores Ford perfomance Holley carburetors. When Preston Carburetion was sold, my database (Carter, Holley and Rochester parts and service manuals along with my Weber manual) went with the business. I found that Holley still publishes their manuals, so I ordered the Carburetor Numerical Listing and the Illustrated Parts & Specs which is now over 1" thick.

Jim, on the aeronose, there isn't so much a pedal box on the automatics as there is just a pivot that is mostly contained by the brake booster studs. To the right side of the column, the two nuts with the dark circular gasket between them, is where the 1986 clutch master cylinder would mount. I would imagine on an aeronose cab, the pedal support would be wider, with the clutch pedal on the left and a cross shaft to the clutch master cylinder doubling as a brake pedal pivot would be there and the clutch master cylinder would be bolted in that area. Steel line is my trailer brake controller hydraulic connection.

Fast Lane Truck did a towing test with a Lightning, it was quite interesting.

I can't help on the clutch pedal as Darth never had one nor did the Aeronose trucks I gathered parts from, all were AT models. The brake pedal on the 1992-96/7 (Aeronose) is primarily attached with the brake booster studs, There is a brace above that stiffens the area. It is not attached to the dash or it's support at all. The pedal support is visible over the casting. The dash is attached, along with the stub column to the left side of the cab, two M10X1.5 bolts into the left A post and a further forward bracket welded to the side of the cab inner wall where two more M10X1.5 bolts are. The casting is attached to the dash HVAC ducts that form the bulk of it's structure. The actual dash is mostly a "skin" over the ducts and actually only the 4 screws across the base of the windshield attach the skin to the body. On the right end, there is a tab (frequently broken) that attaches the duct assembly to the right A post. In the bottom center there is a tubular brace from the dash ducts to the upper portion of the floor hump for stiffening. The stub column is extremely ridgedly secured to the left side of the cab through the casting, the EEC is between the casting and side wall and just in front of the casting are the two wiring harness female plugs in the firewall. a 76 pin for the underhood harness and a 24 pin for the chassis harness.

Mat, I will throw another out there, Chrysler ATF+4 or there is another number for it, I believe it is 7476. It is a synthetic like Dexron, but has a friction additive like type F. It was released to help keep the A604 or as it is now designated 41TE transaxles alive. These have no capability to adjust line pressure according to load and were know to burn up under hard use, especially in the minivans with the 3.8L V6. I do remember my surprise when I found Darth's C6 called for Dexron rather than type F.

So am I correct in understanding that if it's hooked up to that cold weather modulator, it would prevent it from opening in certain temperatures? Would a 2 barrel 2150 carb benefit from the extra air under these circumstances? Ok, here is the diagram from my 1986 F350 with a 460 engine: The red vacuum lines come from a 4 tube vacuum tap on the intake manifold. The lower tube that points straught to the left connects to the air filter diverter (back side of housing) through the CWM which I believe is a delay valve. The diverter is open with the engine off, and closed by vacuum when running. but at WOT it opens up to provide more air, and you can definitely hear it! The inlet snorkel is temperature controlled by a thermal valve in the lower part of the air filter and is connected to the same vacuum source. It maintains warm air so the engine doesn't stumble at low speeds in cold weather. There is a jacket on the right side exhaust manifold for heat, and the end of the inlet duct goes to a plastic elbow past the radiator so it gets ambient temperature air when driving. You can definitely hear the roar of that 460 and Holley 4 barrel.

That appears to be a 460 air cleaner. The extra door is held closed by manifold vacuum, so at wide open throttle it allows extra air in to feed that 4180C Holley 4 barrel.

Gary, the EEC-V system detects the load and compensates. If you log the engine data, you will see the (a) slight drop in rpm as the load comes on and (b) the IAC opening more to compensate for the change. If you listen carefully you will here a change in the exhaust sound as the IAC feeds more air. Darth's idle speed would drop when he was still carbureted.

Google Wallet maybe? On PayPal, usually if I send Friends and Family (you are my 3rd cousin twice removed aren't you?) there is no fee.

Do you still have the air pump on the engine? That system can cause popping in the exhaust, and mine even shot a 2 foot flame out of the tailpipe one time.

Biggest issue with oil change places is speed. they want you in and out fast. One near me when I was in Newport News I called their bluff. They wanted to due a "full service" on Darth including a fluid and filter change on the C6. Kid told me there wasn't a converter drain. I told him I would make a bet on it, if I was wrong I would pay double for the transmission service, if I was right it would be free. He didn't bite. I had previous issues with them, like breaking a vacuum tee on my 1981 Omni while the greased the upper ball joints on it (Macpherson Struts, no upper ball joints). I did get them one time, I took our 1955 Packard Patrician in. car had probably 25-30 grease fittings, an oil bath air cleaner and a bypass oil filter. I copied the lube chart from the service manual so they could see where the grease fittings were. I was told, we don't even have a listing for air or oil filters for that car. I handed him the new oil filter element and explained oil bath air filters to him. They actually did the full service on it.

I don't know if these will help as Darth is a 2WD F350 crew cab dual rear wheel truck: Sway bar mounting brackets: End link attachment: Is it possible you have a 2WD sway bar and the 4WD is longer?

I know where one is, but he hasn't given me a price. It has a hotter hydraulic cam, close to the 1953-54 Corvettes. Bottom end was rebuilt, all bearings correctly shimmed. I don't think he would include the 3 Carter YHs and intake though. There is also a Powerglide set up for an open drive line, but probably can be converted back to closed.

The pieces on the front of the engine are 1/4" as I didn't want to take any more than that off the timing belt tensioner base. They are doubled above and below the mount area as can be seen in the second picture. There are 5 M10X1.5 bolts holding the plate to the front of the block, one of which also holds the front upper end of the tensioner base and the mount base (triangular casting) bottom and back bolts go into the doubled 1/4" plate sections. I had to bolt them together as I do not have AL welding capability. If I can find someone who can do it at a reasonable price I will probably get it done and then have them plug weld where the M6X1.0 bolt holes are. The top view was with a 1/4" thick piece of cardboard for making a pattern. The automatic tensioner has an M8X1.0 pitch bolt locking the spring housing in place, the bolt actually protrudes about 1/8" now so the rear plate is drilled and then with the modified base installed tapped so the bolt goes into the back plate. On the back side of the PS mount, the outer bolt attaching it will have a brace running to one of the M10X1.5 holes for the right axle intermediate bearing support. This will be to keep the pump mount from flexing and vibrating. I have another timing belt automatic tensioner that may end up between the crank and PS pump pulleys as that will be the slack portion of the serpentine belt. I do have a couple of tensioners to play with.