85lebaront2

Ok, coming to you sir!

Ok, I have the glow plug wiring for the 1984 IDI engine in my AllData.

I've only replaced the king pins on my 1958 F100 and I did ream the bushings to fit so they weren't a problem. I also did the ones on our 1955 Packard Patrician. Darth's are still the original 1986 ones.

14 years as USMCR Motor Transport, 1965-1971 then 1975-1983 (didn't learn the first time). We had M38s when I started, M151s later. I generally drove the wrecker down and back to Camp Lejeune, then was given two trip tickets every weekday, one for an M151 (ticked a few officers off that a SSgt had a personal jeep) the other for the M543A2C 5 ton wrecker. That way if one of our antique (1953 vintage) 5 ton gas engine trucks broke down I could go check it out and come back with the wrecker if needed. Gas mileage on the 5 tons was amazing, 3 mpg, the gas wrecker we had before the multifuel got 2 empty and 1 towing. 602 ci in-line 6s, 4.875" bore, 5.375" stroke, redlined at 3600 rpm. Continental R6602 engine.

The operative word is "almost" the 4R70W is derived from the AODE which was derived from the AOD. One of the issues is the 4R70/75W had a cable shifter rather than a mechanical rod system, as a result the bracket mounts were only concerned with holding the cable casing in place. We went through this trying to set one up for my son's 1986 F150 4WD, ended up buying I believe it was a Lokar shift lever kit.

What can I say? I'm slow. But I'm getting there. However, I think it is safe to say that what we have here is well worth preserving - both the posts as well as the camaraderie. So we need to figure out how to preserve it, and setting up the non-profit with bylaws, board of directors, etc is a good start. Board of directors can probably be your administrators as that is essentially what we are.

Gary, I don't know if he can help or not, but my older son (stepson actually) is an IRS auditor? in Austin Texas. He might be able to at least point you in the right direction. If you want I will send you his information off here and let him know, He just had a stent put in one of his heart arteries this morning paid for by the VA (Army veteran, 57 years old). He usually calls me every evening on his 1 hour drive to work.

Look closely at the flywheels on the engine side for either a bunch of blind holes or a cast on weight, Windsor V8 flywheels and 240/300 six cylinder ones are the same size, but the V8 ones have an imbalance just like the balancer on the front does (it's 180° opposite on the flywheel).

I think it's an M38A1, I can see the battery cover on the right side of the cowl.

Having owned a couple of Fomoco wagons (1970 1/2 Falcon and 1971 Colony Park) I am quite familiar with broken wires at the tailgate hinge, particularly since both were dual action tailgates.

Rene' I believe you probably have one or more broken wires where the harness bends entering the tailgate. This is not an unkommon issue on power tailgate windows.

Gary, now you know why Crutchfield is my go io source for audio gear. They are good!

That's a cop out. Where's the discussion of what plugs I should use? Or what plugs to stay away from? Seriously, Bill. You are the guru. What should I be using? I use Motorcraft ASF42C plugs in Darth. I have in the past had decent results with NGK and even Holley plugs in my GT350. The Chrysler gets Champion RN12YC

The parts stores want to sell the most expensive parts they can.

The 130 amp can be found on Taurii with the 3.8L V6 that is a pretty good fit on our trucks. If you are getting one from a junkyard that allows you to pull your own parts, get as much of the alternator harness as you can.

Gary, since I used the 1990 head pipes on Darth, I used the original location for the single O2 sensor where there is a short cross pipe between the two head pipes. It is back near the transmission cross member just ahead of the large flange where the catalytic converter went on the 1990 F250.

Crutchfield is my source for most vehicle audio systems. Support is great. Besides, look where they are located.

Back when the 460 first came out the HP and Torque were 365 HP @ 4600 rpm and 500 ft-lbs @ 2800 rpm. I had an intersting engine I was given, it was an ex-NASCAR 430 MEL. In stock form the 1958 version, which it was, had 375 HP @ 4600 rpm and 490 ft-lbs @ 3100 rpm. The Super Marauder Mercury version had 3 2 barrel Holleys on it and was 400 HP @ 4800 rpm and 500 ft-lbs @ 3600 rpm if my information is correct. Since mine was .030 over, it was 436 ci, solid lifter cam of unknow specs. Normal 430 will idle around 450-500 rpm, this one, mine, any lower than 650 it would stumble off idle. Installed in a 1958 Country Squire with an early single coupling Hydra-Matic, 2.69:1 gear and driving 235/75R15 Michelin radials it would go about 1 car length then light the rear tires.

Vivek, here is what Darth's sticker says on weight: I weighed him on a certified scale at the local grain elevator, both tanks near empty (front was empty) no one in the seat and only an aluminum camper shell that I can put on or take off by myself. I also have 4 of the 1994 optional aluminum rims Alcoa made for Ford on him. Weight on the scale was 6400 lbs. Darth is a 2WD (no 1986 crew cab duallies were built 4WD by Ford) updates are conversion the MAF/SEFI (probably 40 lbs less intake weight) and changed the C6 to an E4OD (probably added at least the 40 lbs back).

Here will be tomorrow a link to the video of it running on the 6 AA batteries it uses: For some reason YouTube is saying it won't be available until tomorrow.

I came very close to adding a "prime" push button switch to Darth as he wasn't a daily driver and usually needed the carburetor filled for a cold start. Now that I have the MAF/SEFI system, it isn't needed.

That is a somewhat complex system. one item on the 1986 system, the selector switch changes the big motor driven 6 port valve on the frame near the front tank. The system has two power sources, one is a blue wire with a fusible link that is fed power when cranking the engine from a small stud on the starter relay, the second source and the one that keeps power to the system is an oil pressure switch in the back of the block behind the intake manifold. Here is a link to the 1986 EVTM on the site: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-evtm.html If you take the blue wire off it's stud and touch it to the battery stud on the starter relay, you should be able to hear the selected pump run. Set the selector switch to front or rear and try that test, first if the tank selection was changed, you should hear a "clunk" from the selector valve and a faint whirring noise from the pump followed by a hissing sound from the vapor seperator in the fuel line near the carburetor. I would try both directions when checking, front and rear tank. Good luck with it and feel free to ask more if needed.

Probably 5 years ago, dealer has changed hands since then.

If you notice the VIN number is written on it. The local Ford dealer ordered it as a replacement for me and I scanned it before I installed it.

Jim, I have two Onans and a Kohler. The Onans are a 305 CCK and a 4.0 CCK, both actually rated at 4.0 KW. The Kohler is a 6.5 KW. The 305 CCK is a recoil start engine and actually isn't too bad to start, it just doesn't pull fast. Once started I have run our 30 ft 5th wheel on it including the AC for an entire weekend twice. The first time I didn't have a big fuel tank, so it sat in Darth's bed at Oceana NAS in Virginia Beach and we took turns going out and filling 5 gal cans. Second time I had a 30 gal marine fuel tank that had been in a Winnebago for travelling up the Alcan highway, owner traded me a tune up and carburetor repair on his Onan genset for the tank. 4.0 CCK was removed from a motorhome being scrapped and given to me, it can be battery started and has reverse flow cooling. It is nice to use but really needs a proper mounting frame. The Kohler came out of a big sailboat a co-worker's family owned. Both of these use what is called "stator cranking" where the generator acts as a direct drive starter.