85lebaront2

Our 5th wheel had a slide out, it was the living room couch/bed and the dinette. You could get to everything you needed to at a stop, refrigerator and bathroom.

Gary, Darth had an FS6 and he was built 08/86 so would have been late production.

Since he has a thirsty Subaru that may destroy it's engine, it's probably not a bad idea. That will serve them well if they go back to Central America.

Not only the ones holding it down but the ones holding the throttle body to the float bowl. I always used Loctite on them when rebuilding one.

I have had a flex fan fail on me, it was years ago, one of the Flexalite fiberglass ones on a 1964 Falcon with a 260, I was pulling onto the highway and it shucked a blade (one of six). To get home without it vibrating too badly I broke the opposite one off. I think I ended up with a metal flex blade from a junkyard.

So I guess I need to find an entry form???

Gary, looks good to me, damn, now I'll have to see if I can find the picture Jim took when we met in Delaware of me standing by Darth.

Gary, running at an angle like that it will "crab walk" as it goes up or down. Why do you thing the NASCAR guys have adjustable track bars. On the Spridget I used to crew, it had the quarter elliptic rear springs and a track bar. A fellow who knew a whole lot about making those cars handle showed us that the track bar should be neutral (horizontal) at static height, in this case driver installed and properly tight (about a 6 pack and a half) . I don't know about Sky's kit, but to me that track bar is kind of short which will mean it has a short arc, heck the rear track bar on my konvertible is longer than that.

Bad thing, I have two perfect E4OD ones for the 1992-96/7 dash.

I want to say Ford used an oddball 7mm head on a lot of these fasteners It's not 6~1/4" or 8~5/16" but in between. And I can't get an 11/32" nut driver on it either. Yes, Ford and Chrysler used a lot of 7mm head fasteners, The Chrysler stuff is usually machine screw style and used a lot on trim clips. Ford and the Dog, er Dodge I just worked on have sheet metal style, especially on the inner fenders.

Welcome to our group. On replacing the EEC-III you might want to start a thread in one of the main forum areas. I will ask for a few pieces of information on your truck. Is the distributor "locked" in place, basically has a roll pin so it can't be turned, does it have the strange double rotor (two ends, one is 45° off from straight across), does it have a pickup coil in the distributor. These are things I need to know which parts it will take to change to a DS-II ignition, carb is easy, a Motorcraft 2150 is a drop on as are some Holley replacements.

If it doesn't have the same effective displacement per revolution it will certainly impact cooling.

I am looking at Rock Auto's pictures and the UAC and GPD look like what you have. the GPD says "FS6 style", UAC just claims it is an FS6. Your original picture asking about the connector looks like my old FS6.

Take a good look at the pictures I posted, that is a 1986 FS6 casing splits in the center and has a drive end head and closed head. Your new one has a single head on the back. It is someone else's compressor made to fit in place of the FS6. Here is the FS6 labeled:

Perhaps because it is a different style compressor. The FS6 is a six cylinder axial unit with 3 double ended pistons and two ends that are basically mirror images. The new one looks like it might be a scroll compressor, they use less power to run is the logic behind them. Where did you buy it, my Taurus ate it's FS10 recently and I am going to need to replace it.

No, but someone did a nice job on the valve cover and top latches.

That is not a Ford OEM compressor, it is probably a Chinese knock-off and only uses the rear ports into the manifolds. Here are some pictures of the FS6 I removed from Darth when I changed things to go to EFI.

I never thought about a separate alternator ground cable on a bolted solid to metal alternator mount. My Chrysler has one that goes from the alternator to the ground point on the cylinder head and then to the battery but that alternator is mounted on polyurethane bushings and even the tensioner arm has a polyurethane center.

Darth isn't bad with EFI front pipes and the remainder of the system essentially the original dual to the muffler and out behind the axle. In the HRBT or CBBT if I have a or the windows down there is a nice deep drone from the tailpipe probably 12' behind me.

F2TZ is the prefix for 1992 parts, if it was changed in 1992, I am not sure what the difference is. I am still using the original 1986 throttle pedal in Darth even with the 1996 EFI system. I did score a later throttle cable from Pick-n-Pull and have the V10 cable for the larger throttle body. I will try to get some pictures of the items I was talking about. Item for you, first, make sure that with the cable end free the spring is pulling the inside portion all the way in, the upper portion of the pedal should be pulled all the way toward the firewall, if not with the strength of the return springs on the Sniper, you can probably use them and move the cable bracket as far back as possible. After first determining that, go under the dash and measure the "stroke" of the upper part of the throttle pedal arm from firewall or stop contact to the floorboard position, essentially start with it against what stops it at closed throttle inside the cab to where it is when the pedal arm is against the carpet. This will be the maximum travel you can get without changes. I have found, that if you grab the pedal arm, not the plastic pedal it is possible to raise it off the carpet a bit to increase the travel at the cable end (old hot rodders trick). The other item I already mentioned, plan on making or modifying a bracket, put your longer arm on the Sniper as close to vertical as possible, then stroke it to WOT and measure the absolute straight line distance it moves back, don't worry about the arc it travels in just the distance from closed to open. You may need to remove it and put it on something flat and use a square. This dimension is the distance the cable and throttle pedal arm need to move to get WOT. This should also make the initial opening easier.

When I lost the only key I had for the 1995 Continental, I just carried the column less wheel to the locksmith.

Thank you, I have been down some of these rabbit holes before.

1994 as far as I know. I have (somewhere) a 1994 and lines a friend in PA (Larry Sharff) sent me when he was building a plow truck from a Bullnose with a smashed cab and an Aeronose donor for the cab.

Aeronose is totally different, the column is a "stub" column. Easiest way to get a key, take the door lock cylinder out, same key and it may have a Ford code stamped on it, should be driver's side but no guaranty on it. Worst case, take the column out. Lower dash cover, column covers (at the wheel) and unplug the combination switch plug and the ignition switch plug. Column mounting nuts are 13mm, I use an old 1/2" deepwell that is worn enough to fit over them. Here is a picture of mine with the attachments noted:

You have a better chance of finding Numberdummy on FB, by his real name (Gary, he is on my friends list, his picture is a Basset Hound).