kramttocs

Good question! Also, I've wondered what determined whether the truck got it or not. Does your truck have any wiring there besides the seat belt? Gary - Crazy how some tires definitely 'sing' more than others. More incentive to drive the wheels off it . With the wind noise can you narrow down where it's coming from? Does it sound like it's coming into the cab or just general exterior 'pushing a wall down the road' sound? Your door panels are still off, right? I know you mentioned insulating them and picked up new retainers but couldn't recall if you temporarily installed them or not. Even with the exterior soundproofing, having the interior panels on will make a difference. It gives you another insulating air pocket plus I could see those drains at the bottom causing some whistling under the right conditions.

At one time I had a whole folder of photos showing the various styles of these I've come across. As Shaun said, in some situations the front sway bar attaches to them on 1/2 tons if both are present. If it isn't present but the sway bar is, the brackets are further outward, attaching to the frame. I find it neat that these sways bars sometimes go up and into the bumper cavity. Seems like those were on diesels though which makes sense due to the lower dipping core support (not talking 1/2 tons though). Some trucks have one like yours with no sway bar so I assume they are purely doing skid plate duty. I have an 81 1/2 ton 2wd like this. Am out pulling an overdrive from a parts truck right now so snapped a couple photos of a 1/2 ton 4wd sway bar that has a crossmember like yours. Again, it may not match yours exactly due to the variations (Ford and aftermarket?) that are out there.

For sure. We had a brief discussion yesterday about what things our eyes gravitate to on these trucks so struck me as funny when Dane spotted the tach

I was just meaning that I am sure it will perform the same (Eastwood's may be from 3M?) and I was impressed with it when I used it on my doors. Easy to stick on there, holds really well, and not messy at all.

Hopefully it pans out! Love the look of those door panels with the power bezels.

Bottom Head Diameter 25/32" Top Head Diameter 1/2" Stem Diameter 5/16" Stem Length 5/8" Ford # N801925-S 1981- 25 Per Package Package Price: $3.99 So for that price I ordered two sets as it takes about 25 for each door when you include the map pockets. Then I heated and rolled the sound deadening I put on yesterday and then added the 2nd layer across the middle of the door. With that done I made the mirror brace and used the new process, meaning that I screwed it down on one of the screws and then tapped the other through the rivnut. That seemed to work pretty well. And then I turned to the door lock problem. After playing with it a bit I realized that it worked fine with the window up, but not with the window down. So I started looking at all the linkage as I moved the window and discovered that the plastic retainer for the link from the outside door handle's push button was touching the back side of the rear channel for the window. So I moved the window channel and the door handle away from each other as far as they'd go. And I lubed the back of the channel, and it now works nicely. And with that, I think we are ready for a trip tomorrow. That strip caulk is great. No doubt identical to the Eastwood kind I used and what is really nice is it's reusability . Seems like the second you get it buttoned up, you find you need to get back in there.

Or maybe those are the pocket change deposit slots It is a neat looking one with how it has aged. We don't see many Bronco Ranger XLT's, do we?

Really glad you posted about this as I have been thinking about this for the past few weeks. Last night placed an order for 2 gallons, the gun, and some misc parts. In the end I went with the Woolwax Clear. I was about to click on the black but figured for things like the doors and tailgate if it drips, I'd rather have the clear coming out. Now that I'll have the gun, once the clear runs out, I'll try the black for the frame and nonvisible areas.

There is a photo of the vent in this thread on FTE Personally I wouldn't consider cutting into the door. Why not put a low profile all-in-one sub (or 4 ) under the bench? I am really happy with the Kicker 11HS8.

You guys are never happy

Wow. That's the riser for the in bed spare for short beds. Never seen one listed nos before that I can recall. Good find!

https://www.gaaclassiccars.com/vehicles/30729/1985-ford-f150-xlt-lariat?fbclid=IwAR3I7ntf1k1Z2XpGHhA9zI1JBiNDm5W3fs8PcPL3wJvqzxyV9aZsv-Bm8aA Saw this posted on Facebook.

That York is what was on my 1980 with dealer installed air (actually there were two with one being an air compressor). My grandfather's 85 also had the York and it worked really well when that truck was on the road. Solid units from what I've read. I'll rely on others if it's worthwhile to source brackets for the fs6 or not since you may be replacing the whole setup. I don't know enough about the 300 to know what the brackets are like.

Glad to have you!

Nothing wrong with a good working dealer AC setup What compressor do you have on there?

Exactly

Am a big fan of classic DeeZee stuff and if loaded correctly I would think it would last forever. Sun damage would be significantly limited back there also.

Hey Gary - that is the DeeZee one although pretty sure it was also sold by others like JC Whitney. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/deezee-cab-organizer-brochure.html There was one in an jy truck not long ago but was all warped from overloading. If I recall correctly the back was a multi piece panel setup that snapped together and no longer stayed together (again, likely from overloading/abuse). In good condition though, the config looked like it would work well and be handy. You might have to get creative with keeping everything in place though when you go offroad

My 86 is another case of 'will be done in X, but took YYYY....'. John is exactly right about the collision work. Some of the delay on mine was due to collision jobs that came in but it was also due to it being a small, independent shop and in order to provide some job security the shop had a gentlemen's agreement with a couple local guys that did restorations where their jobs took priority even if something was already in progress. Good to know this stuff about a shop upfront to set expectations so neither party gets frustrated. Around here I got quotes all over the place. Several shops wouldn't even consider it due to the size and time investment. Are you having the pinstripes applied as tape or painted on?

Very good point! LineX told me something like a 3 week cure time before they'd apply the bedliner. If you do under the rails on the bedliner, it's not much of an issue aside from the very back uprights and the tailgate where there will be some overlap.

Is that the sender for dealer installed cruise? I seem to recall looking at a dealer cruise kit on Ebay, and the sender that came with it attached to the back of the speedo in the cluster. I think that is a very good possibility. Looks like they may have been added to cars primarily.

Is it E4AZ-9E731-A? Excellent find! And they are even reasonably priced

A little over 20min in. Hadn't heard of him before that I know of. Really fun discussion.

Can't even tell there was a problem I haven't looked closely at the measurements but I'll assume the shroud gap is due to the added 4 row thickness since the 3 row doesn't have it.