kramttocs

Agreed Dane:nabble_smiley_good: That's the major disadvantage of #1. The benefit of it would be how secure it would be. I don't know that you'd need any other fasteners if using those two mounting points. You could get a rectangular steel plate that fits the bottom trough acting like a giant washer.

I wouldn't do option 1. So guess that leaves my vote with #2 :nabble_smiley_beam:Replacing the factory bolt with a double hex stud would be my preferred solution. It would have a couple advantages to #2 but a major advantage to the drawback of #1.

But looking at your arrows, what about those flat clips/hooks that were used over car doors for the seatbelt? Something like that. So in an accident, nothing would really be sticking out or pointing towards your face. Although the less prominent the hooks, the more effort it will take to put the cord back in them...

I'd leave it in the center. I like the look of the cord hanging down but you could put a hook up there to reduce it if needed (wouldn't be much of a safety concern there). My rationale being that if needed, emergency or otherwise, Janey or another passenger has quick access to the mic.

I agree - it's a shame to spend that when all you need is the gasket. For some reference - here is another view of the rubber one showing how it curves to fit the cab. Awhile back I was looking at them in the jy and I do recall seeing one that didn't have the black rubber. I just assumed it had cracked and fallen off. Didn't consider that there could be a different style gasket on it.

That's different than the rubber ones I always see.

Thanks, Scott! If he can do it I can send my old one if he needs it. Jim - Yes, good idea. What about exterior caulk? Just saw that lmc has the whole kit for 45.

Good thinking Jim. Just called and spoke to the gentleman. This one is different since it's not flat stock but rather like a molded rubber. He asked for a photo so I am emailing him one now to get his thoughts.

I couldn't ever find them sold separately so ended up picking up a nos unit (e2tz-15550-a). If that hadn't been available I'd thought about buying a aftermarket unit just for the gasket. Haven't looked lately but the aftermarket units I found at the time weren't cheap...

That all looks excellent and how you hooked into the wiring is top notch!

Thanks. No argument that the Nabble one works great for the forum and per the poll results, appears that it's the most used option. Indicating that most viewers get to the doc pages using methods other than the site's built in search (direct links in forum posts, navigation, or google search results). Considering that searching for lrc in Freefind doesn't return anything, doesn't bode well for it surviving Can Weebly use the 'site' feature when building its index?

I guess the answer would be yes to that. It's similar to the Integral AC with how it can draw fresh air or cabin air (max ac) based on the recirc door position. The difference is that the dealer ac fan will always pull some cabin air since there is a gap between the fan and the vent. *note* This whole fresh air/recirc with the dealer ac is based on observation. I haven't read any dealer ac official documentation on how the operation or usage is outlined by Ford. While the fan and vent are in close proximity to make this seem plausible, there also isn't really anywhere else Ford could have easily put the fan. I am looking for the doc packet that came with the 85 to see if it has a pamphlet for the IC. Some dealer a/c photos: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Dealer-Aftermarket-AC-Photos-td44293.html Found the doc packet (window sticker, transport ticket, those little keyring coins and all). The manual for the dealer ac is there but it's a generic manual so not Bullnose specific. I was actually in the shop that did the install a couple months ago.

The vents do have gaskets on them to seal the sliding door but assuming they are still present, you are still talking about a very thin plate of plastic separating outside and inside. If closed though, aside from whatever leaks are present in the vent door, will there be that much movement or circulation inside the vent/cowl trough? . Still speaking purely of dealer ac - my grandfather's 85 with the Integrated Controls (IC) and my 80 with the Cubby Controls (CC) both have the fans close enough to the passenger vent to draw fresh air from the kick panel vent. I feel like I've heard the two styles called Deluxe and Economy but the Deluxe wording is confusing since a heat system also had that name. I may be recalling that incorrectly though....but I digress. The IC unit has the fan opening facing the firewall whereas the CC fan open is almost directly facing the kick panel. I don't know if this is form or function. The IC unit does look cleaner in this regard and is safer or more kid friendly. I guess the answer would be yes to that. It's similar to the Integral AC with how it can draw fresh air or cabin air (max ac) based on the recirc door position. The difference is that the dealer ac fan will always pull some cabin air since there is a gap between the fan and the vent. *note* This whole fresh air/recirc with the dealer ac is based on observation. I haven't read any dealer ac official documentation on how the operation or usage is outlined by Ford. While the fan and vent are in close proximity to make this seem plausible, there also isn't really anywhere else Ford could have easily put the fan. I am looking for the doc packet that came with the 85 to see if it has a pamphlet for the IC. Some dealer a/c photos: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Dealer-Aftermarket-AC-Photos-td44293.html

Weebly or Nabble? I didn't think Weebly searched the forum.

Not Dave but they left them there. Both styles of dealer ac did this. The add on fan is open to the cabin right there by the vent so I guess leave it open and you get AC, closed and you get Max AC?

Yes, welcome! Great looking truck

You're right Shaun. Only saw the first photo earlier on my phone. Looking at my laptop now and seeing the rest of them with the paint lifting...I retract my statement

Aha - my issue was using www which because the forum is using 'forum.' it wasn't returning those results. Using just garysgaragemahal.com works great and gives the mixed results one would expect. I like this option for the weebly search if you can make it work.

At least in the photo, neither of those look terrible.

No worries Bill - those would still be needed. I am only running fuses in mine but in certain situations, from a safety standpoint, a circuit breaker could be very beneficial. By splitting the hi/lo circuits in two you are already adding a layer of safety. The del city item I referenced would be 'in addition to' vs 'in replace of' the relays you ordered. It would just be a matter of replacing your fuse with one of them. It's one of those things that I think it's good to consider since someone is going to be in there making changes anyways.

Oh, so the radio isn't like a stereo where it has the keyed 12v and a constant 12v?

Gary - are you still using the circuit breaker or did that change with the pdb? I ask because if Bill was interested in that approach - they have those auto reset ATC circuit breakers. They are tall but in a case like this, that won't matter. For example 71176 at del city.

Thanks for sharing this

Just dawned on me, in this case it's closer to the factory setup than one would initially think. The digital radio draws its constant power from that circuit also I now remember being surprised by that when I was playing around with my Fuse Buddy. So aside from making sure to add that into the current load, I say you've got a winner.

Functionally I don't see a reason not to use the LG/Y circuit. Just my opinion, or maybe preference, but I'd keep them separate. I could say it comes down to separating add-ons from factory, future troubleshooting, or keeping vastly different things (lights-radio) off the same circuit....but really it's preference