kramttocs

That seat doesn't look too shabby Likely more comfortable than the factory bench or jumps. It's possible it's rusted from some user action but I've never seen the rear floor rusted through in any of the supercabs I've looked at so hopefully he just wanted a flat work area. I would highly recommend the LMI seat lift if you want people to sit back there (and go with the bench). Makes it much more comfortable. By the way, I like the Aztec style pattern on your front seat. My 80 has that but in green.

Looks really good!

My first guess would be the LH door switch. Does your dome light work? On and off with door open/close? The delay is what's a little odd. That makes me think it's not the key/lights on buzzer but rather a defective timer in the seatbelt buzzer. We don't have an 82 EVTM though so I am not sure if yours is like the 81 or the later combination style.

Does it stay on indefinitely the second time it comes on?

'Jump' -that's the word I was looking for From what I've read the floor pan is the same - just a difference in holes and existence of the latch. Do you have the latch on the passenger side back panel?

Yup. As for how much needed cut off, it was around a 1/4" like the guy in the other forum. Maybe if I'd been a little more observant I might have noticed the thicker flange for that bolt on the original housing Got it all put back together and that noise is gone so that's good. That had to be putting quite a lot of pressure on that gear. Bad news is that there is still a noise that I need to track down. I will have to drive it some more to find the specifics like at what speed, etc. but I do know that when going a decent speed if I push in the clutch it's still there. That rules out a few things but still leaves the main changes: gvod and driveshaft I checked the ujoints when I got back from a drive and they were cool to the touch. I am leaning towards output bearing and that this noise is just more pronounced now. Will drop the driveshaft to do some more elimination.

A Gear Vendors can go on the rear output of a transfer case and be used in a 4WD vehicle. But since it's only on the rear driveline it can't be used in 4WD. Whether that's acceptable to you or not is up to you. Came here to say the same as Bob - they are made to go on both 2wd and 4wd (I have one on each) they just don't work in 4wd. Maybe I missed it but what is your goal? Is it purely getting overdrive?

Dave is correct on the pods. They are available for later years but not for ours. Others have taken the later years and grafted them together with our A pillar trim. Would also be a fun 3D printing project

I can take photos of mine (heading out there later this evening) if needed. Worth noting that some of these trucks, though not many that I've seen, came with two rear fold up launch type seats that face the center. Photo from here that shows the latch and most of the seat:

80-86 will swap without any mods and I believe up to 91 is the same. 92-96 should also swap but there are some differences in the latching and possibly other things I am not aware of Earlier (73+) look similar but haven't paid much attention to how they attach nor their measurements. I would stick with 80-86 as those are guaranteed. The only difference in those will be the pattern on the seat back (metal side).

Glad you joined! Great looking patina

Moving right along! With the door panel off you can access the bolt through the lock mechanism. Since your bolt is lined up enough to shut the door, shut it, and then reach through the door with the torx on an extension. Loosen it enough to move the door where you want it and the tighten down.

Looks great! Love that color.

Ah, I see how the that could have been read that way. Will give you plenty of chances to find all the sharp edges

Welcome! Sharp looking truck. You've got the upper trim that Rick (Lariat85) likes. The tailgate is an earlier year but looks in great shape and that that trim panel is my favorite style. Looking forward to hearing more about both trucks.

Haha so true. Although technically I said it yesterday so... Granted, your post about lubing the lock reminded me of it so full credit where it's due Hopefully that spray will take care of it for you Randy. And nice job on getting them in without taking the window out

Did you spray them with silicone spray like I mentioned? Night and day difference on mine with power windows.

Wheelbase is 137. I assume 1356 as well but unable to confirm. Will have to take a look the next time I am at my parents.

To me that looks like an auto trans slip yoke. So out of a 2wd it would be a two piece. Front shorter piece going through the carrier bearing and terminating with a male splined shaft. Then the rear piece would have a female piece that looks similar to yours but would have a collar at the end. At least that's what all my 2wd (both auto and manual) C&C trucks have. Now with 4wd - our 94 7.3, 5spd C&C is a one piece. Honestly I thought it was 2 piece but just now called my dad and he checked. Our 96 7.3, 5spd, 4wd C&C is also at the farm with him and I would now assume it's a 1 piece as well but he wasn't near it to look. I am going back with a 1 piece on my 80 but it won't really help you out as the config will be different. Wish I was near the 94/96 since like you said, that would help you out more. I was thinking I could get you some info with the 2 piece ones but that was before I learned about the 94 1 piece. The 1 piece does simplify the build and might be worth checking with your local driveshaft shop on having one built. I could share what I paid for mine but it was a bit of a special case (aka ordeal) and won't be a good comparison.

Sorry, I am having a hard time picturing what you are running into. You are talking about the bottom rear channel that bolts to the inner door and then has a couple tabs at the top (reminds me a little of the Hot Wheels track connectors)? If so, they should be able to go in before or after the track rubber. If after you would just have to pull the rubber out of the door track a little ways

I'd definitely take the window out. Once you get a feel for where to rotate it and when, it won't take you long at all.

In addition to lubing the lock, at the much appreciated recommendation of those on this forum I sprayed some silicon grease in the new track seals and it made a big difference. Have done it a couple times since installing them.

Not sure if it will help any but I have the shafts from my 80 c&c on the back of the truck right now (along with a 96 c&c set). I am not sure those parts will have any numbers on them though. So that photo is of the rear one you have (or will be used as your rear one)? What did it come out of?

I am thinking the opposite - it's an 86 cab ( and frame?). The rear side window is

Correct- jack on the passenger side, lug wrench/hubcap pry bar on the driver. Jack handle across the core support. You could also look into the in-bed carrier. It props the tire up along the side of the bed (behind driver). Still takes some room away from the bed but less than it laying down.