kramttocs

I stripped down a harness not long ago and found some deviations with splices also. I'll check later to see if that was one of them. I would start unplugging connectors/connections.

Do you mean the engine directly controlling the speed control (as opposed to the tranny/od)? In my digging a few months ago, 8k is what I found but that wasn't directly from any Ford doc. Can you explain more of your plan? Are you using a vss for the GVOD or is it manually controlled?

All looks great! Appreciate the review (not that we expected any less ) Much better than the yellow one I've been using.

Those are pretty cool - mainly that they are Ford packaged vs the common VentShade branding like you mentioned. For me these fall right up there with the sun/moon visor. I like them and the look (on some truck configs) but oh drilling those holes.....

Thanks Frank! We have a number of trees lining the drive to the shop so after crunching the corner of a trailer years ago, I figure anything to help will be worth it.

You weren't too far away at all! Personal preferences/tastes aside, definitely have to give the owner credit for sticking to the theme. Assuming all the green, diff accents included, are powdercoated? I guess that's the exhaust that is also coordinated and looks like the front calipers are as well.

Morning Gary! Yes, I was trying to avoid it but haven't found a great alternative to rotating it outside the marks and the lack of answers I got from Holley wasn't inspiring. Short of spinning the choke completely around a couple times, I can't see how it would hurt the spring and it's less committal than other options. Interesting that you had to take yours the other way. Do you recall when you first hit the pedal to set the choke does it close completely but then open a bit when you first start? I was a bit surprised on the lens swap as well. Was looking for some covers to have as backup since they don't make them anymore and the seller mentioned having the lenses. I asked him the same question about there being more to it but he informed me it was as simple as loosening two screws and switching them out. Sure enough it was. I've seen the stuff you design and make so I've no doubt you'd pick this process up in no time. What gets me (little bittersweet) is how being able to create something/anything like this in our living room is normal for my kids and yet I am still mesmerized by it

Some have those slots, some don't. I assume it's a year thing but I also thought on the ones with them the black piece has some tabs that went into them - does that not look to be the case on your black piece? Just curious. Either way, adhesive is the solution. Unless you want to go the sheet metal screw route

Glad that took care if it! I also would expect it to look a lot worse if corrosion was the issue but if cleaning it up worked... Just for reference: C121

Check this out Very common issue that a lot of us here have addressed by necessity or as preventative. The guide above is great but if you have any questions let us know. I did mine out of dash but I can think of a few here that did it in dash.

Spent most of the weekend cleaning the shop in preparation to rebuild the 1980's np435. Took care of a handful of things on the 86 though. Rotated the choke a little outside the marks enough to crack it. This has made startups great with no roughness. Still seems like there should be a pulloff and not sure how much I'll have to rotate it in the winter but for now it works. Found some PIAA fog lenses to replace the driving lenses on the backup lamps so swapped them out. I would love to know if Ford had any plans for Fuse 2 and 3. Decided to make/print a spacer for them while watching a movie last night to look more factory (despite the color ) and so the fuses aren't so 'exposed'. Did a few more flushes of the cooling system so will take a drive and then actually get coolant back in it. Not really sure about Thermacure right now though. The last couple flushes had some aluminum like paste and were milky white. It said it was safe for aluminum so not sure what the deal is. Will call tech support tomorrow and ask.

A jy/parts truck is the only place I know. Can't say I've seen any for sale nos. Just some thoughts- You could pop out the rod and use a factory looking bolt or you could use something like those drywall anchors to do the same as the missing part.

Yes, the single horn was hardly working and is visible in the pic. The PIAA superior bass horns are nice. Not shockingly offensive and not to tweety. Going to add them to my F-150. My Bronco has a flipping train horn, it was in when I got it. It is too much. I can see people cross their knees when i have to use it. Thanks. Been looking at them vs the Hella DL50. Since my truck came with the two horns already they sound fine to me but replacing the is just something low on the wishlist. Yeah, I've never understood the train horn scene on a non-specialized street driven vehicle. Maybe that's because I've only seen them used in order to elicit a surprised response from others.

Glad to hear you like the PIAA horns. Have been looking at them every now and then. So your truck had the single horn originally? These are 85115?

Now let's hope I grabbed the right one (99% sure) Email me your address and I'll get it out tomorrow. ...I know I had your address at one time but not finding it.

I've got a box of these rods out in the shop. I can send one your way.

They come up on ebay pretty regularly (or a jy). Here's one Make sure you check which one you need though for your year. LMC also carries a generic one. I haven't seen anyone here make one but the sky's the limit as seen

Hey Keaton. Just to avoid confusion - this is fuse 8 (instead of 7). The dome light wiring travels under the driver side sill plate and is often subject to rough conditions there. But if you've had previous headlight switch issues and modified wiring in that area, that sounds like a good place to start. Plus if you are having issue with running lights then it's a common piece to both circuits. Did the running lights come back or did you have to replace a blown Fuse 4? If you put a fuse in 7 does it blow immediately?

Welcome aboard!

No, you don't have to use the same front/rear. Just looked at their site again as I didn't realize they don't show Max Control for both front/rear for either 4WD or RWD. Seems odd as most would be inclined to having both pairs match (even if not required). I'd give them a call. Maybe their site is wrong or they have some explanation for it.

No experience but the length would be a concern as the 4wd's sit higher. If you compare the specs on 77461 to G63406 you'll see the differences in travel, extended, and collapsed. I would go by the site recommendations myself if your truck has the stock stance.

Makes sense. Thanks guys!

Sometime run a water hose through the cowl and watch inside. Leaks up there are one unfortunate cause for rust at that seam.

It does. Thanks a lot. After not seeing it in your fuse box like I was expecting I looked at the 84 EVTM. I didn't think it showed these pages but fortunately it stops right after them. Looks like by 84 they already ditched that connector and went a different route. So not only 6cyl Calif trucks but also only the early ones it would seem.

Thanks Gary. I called them earlier today. Having a hard time making sense of the pricing from the various companies/retailers. Midwest and Novak at both at 300 while USA Standard (Summit) and JBG are 160-170. The kits all look the same to me but that's a significant difference in price.