kramttocs

Late to the thread but glad to hear you are ok. If I recall correctly you will be coming through this area (Springfield, MO) to get to the show so if there are still some parts needed, we might be able to schedule some time in the local jy.

Sorry, I reread your post and realized you were talking about only the floor the whole time so the SEM doesn't apply there. Half a dozen (or a dozen) brands out there to choose from but I used the Eastwood mats and would again without hesitation. Their door and hood/headliner options worked fantastic as well.

Well done Looks a lot better than when I tried to braze last. I really like the Eastwood product. I've always brushed the quarts on but I assume the aerosol covered well? Never heard of them - most use SEM. Are you saying this will just be for the floor? If so, have you considered some sound deadener/heat barrier instead?

Really glad to hear the A/C problems were found easily. Didn't even have to disturb your insulation Enjoying the bumper build discussion.

Anything come of this? In particular the trans temp. Mark, the retired Ford transmission engineer, over on FTE has mentioned a few times about using the test port. Is that what you had planned?

Nice find! I don't know that I've seen a Ford factory one. For our trucks: Shame it's not for ours but like Shaun said, the profile is different and they won't fit - I've tried just to know for sure. Guess they could have been the oem supplier also (?) but DeeZee made smooth and diamond plate ones. I don't think the smooth DeeZee ones I have contain the grooves like in the photo above or the 88 so that looks like a way to differentiate.

Sorry, I meant truck side of the retainer. Meaning that I kept finding pictures of the barrel nuts. Looks like my problem was trying to do this all on my phone. Once I got to the pc and viewed the documentation I found this is (LB) = e0tz-9929033-a Dennis Carpenter has a lot of them. Thanks!

As another option, I used this on a 3d printed part for the dash and it worked well. Painters Ultra Fine Point Silver Permanent Paint Pen

Have you tried listing locally instead of eBay?

Really neat find. Type 10?

Sorry Gary - I was looking at the HTML in the screenshot and didn't see the padding until after. You're right Chris - giving people too much rope makes support tough but there's trade offs like this. I was thinking the same about motifying both elements. Worth a quick test at least. One can never overuse !important right?

Chris - are you seeing the #banner div get a padding-top of 150px? That may negate the child alternative.

Looks great! I agree - the best are those that you purposely don't go around until you and your passengers figure it out.

Good job guys. Didn't think about the editor expecting (requiring?) a specific element id to be present. Setting the display is a clean solution Might be worth seeing what happens if you modify the banner-content css class to set the display property there. Maybe the editor won't care as much then. Like Chris said - modify the child and leave the parent with the id alone.

Nice work!

That was from a site selling Mishimoto's and maybe I missed it being a special fit? That measurement includes everything though (core, tank and ears) so isn't really that helpful. Looking at the Rock Auto link from Jim I randomly grabbed radiator part number: CSF 3546 For that, Summit shows:

That's a good thread Gary. Lot of helpful information compiled there. Jim - those autocoolguy controllers are crazy! They definitely look like the best of breed. The 10-14 F Series fans are a great find. Quick search didn't show specs on the fan but the measurements for a direct fit radiator replacement shows: OVERALL LENGTH (IN) 40.32 OVERALL HEIGHT (IN) 18.00 OVERALL WIDTH (IN) 6.25 Dave - you are correct. When reading electric fan conversion threads I don't know if I've ever seen a case where the mechanical fan wasn't cutting it assuming the rest of the system was operating correctly. My situation was the same and the stock fan was keeping mine very cool. This is more just an experiment and is very easy to revert back to the factory setup if it fails. Granted, I hadn't planned to spend more money than getting a controller but I will fully admit that after seeing the clean look of the electric fans, it would be really nice if it works Jim - very much appreciate the water weld mention. After cleaning the tube I ran an 8mm tap through there like Gary and applied the water weld. Haven't ran the truck yet but this seems like it will work great. The water weld swelled and is hard as a rock now so I can't believe there will be any leaks. Put a new cap and clamp back over it as well though just in case.

Glad you are all bolted up Maybe someday we'll find a new one that isn't the Spectra design.

Was it only the instrument lights? Could you repeat the test with the headlights and courtesy lights on?

Right - that was just kind of a complaint about the "kill two birds with one stone" radiator cap and was unrelated to temp. Guess another reason of why mess with stock when it works...not like the stock fan/shroud at all Thanks for that link. I agree that seems like the best of both worlds. Downside is that I think it would require a beefier controller than the Davies, Craig that I have. The SPAL fan is already money spent and cutting holes is free so if neither of those solve the issue, it's back to the mechanical fan. Would still keep an eye out for a jy Mark VIII fan to play around with though.

IF I try the flaps, I am thinking something like this - the black remains and the 3 squares inside are removed. Cutting out the slots entirely but leaving the meat between. Good question - would be an interesting test to put the fans on a temp switch inside the cab and shutting them off when cruising to see if it has an impact. I know during the drive the other day that the fans were under power the whole time so maybe if they were freewheeling it would have cooled better passively. I did just find out that my radiator cap was leaking fairly significantly. I had drained a little coolant from the block to install the sensor so I'd vented the radiator and assume the leak started after that. Not a fan of the quality of the anode cap . Put the original back on for now. Didn't notice the leak as it had to fill up the sway bar crossmember before it made it to the floor. Jim - how is the epoxied bottom neck port in your radiator holding up? Looking to do that this evening as the rubber cap I clamped on is starting to show cracks at the tip. Gary - I like the truck tube idea. We have some used rear tractor tire tubes at my parents that are the right price

All good ideas. Next time I am at the jy I am going to take a look around for the Taurus or Mark VIII fan. There is plenty of room so spacing the shroud back is something to try before cutting the slots out and putting flappers over them. Holding out some hope for the new fan though as it has a lot less material that would be blocking flow. VS When starting it up last night for the test run the alt squealed for a couple seconds. Tried it again tonight and the same thing. This was even after having the onboard battery maintainer plugged in all night. Confirmed tension was good and alignment was good. I was using the 1V alt pulley from Powermaster as opposed to the 2V from L&L I had been using with the other alt. Got to comparing the two and quickly noticed the Powermaster was a lot narrower down in the groove causing the belt to sit a little proud of the pulley. Swapped pulleys, started it up, and no noise at all Tested again a couple hours later and still quiet. Might be premature but fingers crossed. The belt sets a lot deeper in the L&L pulley. If this takes care of it, longevity aside, I am really happy with the alternator. Sitting at idle the gauge (voltmeter and now connected at the battery via a relay vs going through the ign switch) was a tad under 3/4. Turned on everything - hi beams, halogen running lights, halogen backup lights, stereo/amp, etc and needle moved maybe half it's width. Watched it when the radiator fans kicked in and no movement. Same with a/c on. Only one non-scientific test but as far as idle output, it appears it is performing as advertised. Question for you guys: Thinking ahead on the flaps if I go that route. Spal makes some (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spu-ix-30130012) but they are too small. What would be the best material? Nitrile, neoprene,...? 1/16" thick? Needs to be flexible and light enough the airflow opens it.

Interesting and thanks for sharing. Definitely not the first thing one would think of as the culprit.

Nice work all!