kramttocs

Late to the game but like was said starter heat soak can be a pain on these and exacerbate the problems of a worn starter- especially with headers like you have. Battery/starter cables all good? You can try a starter shield but not sure how effective they are. I have one on my powermaster as a preventative measure but no clue if it does anything measurable. I have my doubts. Gary is lucky return shipping would be prohibitive While my first powermaster starter was a dud the second one (xs torque) turns over my 460 hot or cold like nothing so have been very happy with it. It is also clockable so one can get it as far away from the header as possible. All in all, I second the pmgr starter upgrade no matter what brand you go with.

I wish I was getting close to that! The insulation is likely a dead end since it's on the outside but it was just a difference I could think of. A coolant leak would have likely shown on the floor by now and that smell would be more recognizable. Might be worth getting a cheap borescope to look around.

Does it smell even if you just turn the fan on? Or only with the a/c on? Do you have a decent puddle under the truck after running the a/c and parking? Can you poke something up the drain and ensure it's clear? Could it have to do with the insulation you wrapped the HVAC with? My first thought on the glass would be fresh butyl tape like on the vent windows since you don't want anything permanent there - or maybe you do? Maybe that combined with lubricating the track so it doesn't require much force. Filled up both tanks tonight - $91.00 and Drivvo (android app) showed it at 8.55 mpg

Wow! Very nice but some serious cash.

Agreed I put the Amsoil in my 10.25 using those bags and it really made it clean and easy.

Glad you added these John. Those photos are great - really like the last one with the bridge. And of course the truck itself is equally great

Another neat find! Not sure my plate counts as 'valuable' though

Agreed on all counts

Fixing this by cutting it all out and replacing is a big job so if it works for the usage/purpose of the truck - the solution outlined sounds valid. It's similar to what I did on my 80 and it will likely outlast the rest of the truck. I'd also consider spraying in bedliner or flex seal after the por15 has taken care of the active rust.

One option would be to check Marketplace of Craigslist to find someone parting one out and asking them to ship it. A member here has printed up some replacement backs for these so not a deal breaker of the tabs on the back are broken. I think the repair kit is around $40.

#6. Looks like you have the Trailer option so I'd say that one is C915 (ground)

Thinking it's the front cable or one of the rear cables? Have you disconnected the equalizer to see?

Thanks David! Really cool seeing it NIB and with the receipt. Definitely a 'hole in the head' item but added to my watchlist

I know this isn't what you are looking for but just mentioning it since related. Atoto, the brand of the head unit and backup camera I have, offers a panoramic view setup using AC-SC3601. Never tried it as the simple backup camera is enough for me and doesn't seem to be focused enough for your needs but it's something.

People have done it but it does require modifications and the body lines won't be right. A user on FTE commented that:

Welcome - glad you joined! How long did your brother have the Bronco and how/when did it get to Sweden?

Not sure exactly the style you are looking for but if you search on ebay for 'ford jacket vintage' there are a few options out there.

That does look like a good price. Hopefully someone will save it.

Very pretty! And very pricey

That's for sure. I remember thinking the frame extension seemed a bit haphazard so would like to see one as a frame off restore.

I agree. I looked at one locally last year (very, very rough) and it was also a 1/2 ton.

Welcome and the truck looks fantastic! Bet it has a turning radius like a semi

I kind of like the term 'gastronome'. At least they could use logic to target the posts better and be a little more vehicle related

Welcome! Glad you joined

Not entirely clear on which ones they are needing in relation to the first photo. The 3 bottom holes in the triangular pattern should be rivnuts for the early (your 81) mirror lower mount. The line of pop rivets (for lack of a better term) for the non-pressure sensitive trim don't have any rubber grommets. See https://www.ebay.com/itm/114947534240?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 (MACs Auto Parts 1970-1972 Ford Thunderbird Moulding Clip 66-71119-1) As was mentioned, some trim pieces and the emblems use barrel nuts and these can be plastic or metal of varying sizes. I would clarify with the body shop exactly what is needed. Hope that helps