kramttocs

Thanks. Blasted and coated mine this evening so will see how they work out.

A little off topic but... With the inserts in place and in good shape, is there any metal on metal contact in regards to the hinge points that are bolted on to the truck bed on each side? Ultimately, if one were to paint/coat them would it last (within reason)? Truck is in the paint shop currently and don't have another attached tailgate to visually check with.

The woodgrain is the biggest - rosewood vs burlwood. I don't know about the non-wood grain ones that well (weave, silverlining, etc). They will all interchange though without issue. Not specific to those year ranges but you've also got diesel vs gas and a/c vs non a/c.

That diagram is helpful. Those at the ebay link look like they have a ridge on the inside (to snap into the rod groove) which means they will likely be the smaller size. While the bracket was in the oven last night I did a lot of image searching and came up empty so finally admitted defeat and installed the old bushing/grommet back in it. May have to pull a couple brackets at the jy to throw in a box for spares :)

Heated it up a little with the heat gun and was able to get it out without tearing it up. ID of hole in bracket: 15.2mm OD of groove in bushing: 15.0mm (so .2mm of play) ID of hole in bushing: (roughly) 13mm on either end with a reduction in the center of around 11.3

That would be really nice if that kit was it. Unfortunately, and my picture doesn't show it well at all but the piece needed is very similar to the clear/yellow bushing in that kit. Same design but a bigger od/id. It also doesn't look to have quite as long of a 'tip' on it as the clear linkage bushing but that really shouldn't matter as the rod doesn't have a ridge or anything that it has to slip behind (like the linkage rods do). Swung by the auto store and their universal kit didn't have anything big enough. Called the dealership and they showed the bracket but not the bushing by itself.

You bet. The bracket itself has E0TA-7C431-AB on it. I have it out in the sun now to try and soften it a little so I (hopefully) don't ruin it removing it in case I can't find a suitable replacement.

Looking to replace as many bushings as possible while my c6 and bw1345 are out. Any help I can get is appreciated. There is a 3 hole bracket that bolts to the bellhousing. 2 holes for the bolts and 1 hole for a bushing that the pivot rod (connects to the frame on the other end) goes into. This is all for the c6 gear selection. The bushing looks like the FO-405 one that is used elsewhere but it's bigger. There is an 'A 11' on the bushing. Will go look at the universal kits tonight but was hoping it could be obtained in a more specific manner.

Looks like the green in mine - well, at least where the spray painted red a PO decide to coat the interior with is peeling off. :)

Thanks. I completely agree - on a truck the deep sump seems like a necessity. Hopefully by the time either one of us needs to rebuild ours someone will have a step by step process already documented :)

Not really. I took the adapter and sump off. Spent a few evenings cleaning them and then primed and painted (alumi blast). Figured I'd play around a little since the truck isn't waiting on it. So the extent of my non-cosmetic work will be a new adapter gasket, new speedo oring, clean out the internal canister filter, clean out the sump filer, and new sump gasket (I went with the larger maximum overdrive sump). I've read about some people rebuilding the units but didn't venture that far since there weren't any leaks and the fluid looked good. I am just going to keep my mouth shut on the customer service and leave it at that.

I must have read that same thread a few times this weekend "The other note of caution is to take it easy on the RTV used to seal the case halves. Excess can clog the pick up filter for the pump. " Funny - my wife was standing there as I was rtv'ing the case and I was explaining to her how much I drive myself crazy over stuff like that. Too much, too little, clog the pump, have a leak. Been second guessing myself since - even debated getting the wall camera out to look inside at the seams :D

Hey, no apologies needed whatsoever! I didn't know the history of the gvod tcase so it needed to be opened anyways and never having personally seen inside one before, it was a good learning experience. Truck is completely (and I mean completely) dismantled right now anyways so not like this caused any inconvenience at all. Appreciate all the diagrams and research you've done.

Wasn't very clear, was I? :) I was meaning the ones showing the case mod. I didn't think to look at your diagram but just did and I didn't see the triangular piece there either so further confirmation the 1345 doesn't have to worry about that. Splitting the one with the gvod back half as we speak. While welding that piece on isn't a huge deal, it is nice knowing it isn't needed.

Yes it does. I don’t know if there are others, but the 1345 and 1356 both have this Achilles heel 😔 Looks like the 1345 may have went all into the River Styx :) Split mine today and it doesn't look at all like those photos at least in regards to the triangular piece. Unless I am completely missing something the case doesn't have the notch at all. I also can't see into the pump like it appears one can with the 1356. I know its case is aluminum vs the magnesium mix so maybe this is another difference. I was looking at a video online after I didn't see the notch and noticed that guy with the 1356 had to remove a clip before the back half came off. Mine just slipped right off. Will try to add some photos if I can get my phone to work.

Thanks. Yeah, I know these are normally pretty generic parts that I've seen either attached using self tapping screws or adhesive. I didn't elaborate but since these were listed as NOS for 80-86, I was wanting to see if they were any different than the ones you can buy from various retailers. I was looking for photos of this exact model/version and I thought there might be someone on the board that had a truck that came with one. I assume this is a dealer added item unless they have always been aftermarket. Guess if I get curious enough I can message the original poster for the details.

Anyone happen to have a photo of one of these on their truck? How do they attach?

Ah, didn't think to check the selector position. I'll do that tomorrow afternoon. I've seen mention of the pump anchor mod but I must not be putting in the right search terms into google. I did find a thread on fsb that included this photo: https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/304463 Do you happen to have any details or a link on the mod?

A couple years ago when you were putting in the 1345 you identified that one had an input sleeve that stuck out further than the other. I just found the same today. The one I pulled out of my truck has the sleeve that sticks out but the one I was going to put in is flush. The flush one has the GV overdrive back half which is the reason for the swap. Any idea why the difference and does it matter or are the TC's interchangeable? I can swap the back half between the two units, but just didn't want to split open the one that came out of the truck if it isn't needed. Great info in this thread by the way.

Ford recommends nothing lower than Gr.5 anywhere on its vehicles. But factory fasteners are significantly stronger than Gr.5. I don't even like going that low. What good is a shiny bolt if it breaks or strips? Agreed. I am a big fan of overkill so purposefully going down in terms of strength (whether the strength is needed or not) doesn't sit well. I will give them a call again to see if there are any other options. Otherwise I will likely visit a local shop and only buy stainless (in higher grades) for the locations that are readily seen like hood hinges.

Looks like we follow the same steps :D My worst case scenario plan as the moment is this: Take a battery powered cut off wheel to the jy Cut a center section out of the roof support that contains the connectors Dissect from the backside after heating up the parts a little with a blow dryer

It's been awhile and I thought I tried that but it does seems like the solution. I'll give it another shot once it warms up and my spare hose isn't so brittle.

Sorry, the end opposite the harness connector. They have a black hook piece with a threaded hole in it. That piece pivots up into the cab roof through a square-ish hole, snaps in and then the light screws into the threaded hole. So the piece serves as both the support and connectivity. I don't have a complete end piece to see how they latch up in there as mine both broke. Will be pulling from a jy truck and don't want to mess it up as there aren't many supercabs there to practice on :)

I asked if the kit contained any hard grades in it but didn't think to ask if they could be swapped in. I'll give them a call tomorrow.

Going to slightly hijack this thread How does one remove that J hook end from the cab roof rail? Specifically looking for how to do it on a supercab.