kramttocs

Definitely listen to these guys. When I got my 80 the cable had frayed so the PO used some wire rope clips and a short piece of cable to tie it all together. This caused it to be too long and the pedal bottomed out before engaging the brakes. I also had to pull the pedal back up part of the way. Unless something obvious like that shows up under there, these guys are right that it's time to pull the drums.

Since you got me thinking about it - I need the cables to come down the sides of the battery in order to go to the fuse box, a set of top post to side post adapters is what I really need.

Hey Jim. Yeah, I am not really sold on those terminals. I had picked them up awhile back before even considering making these kind of wiring modifications only because the truck came with a version of them and I wanted a matching set for both batteries. I've read mention about the military style in some forums but will do some research on them as they may be a better fit. With these changes I really only need one out from the battery though. I was going to use both 1/0 outs just because they were there. The Eaton has connectors for each of the 4 different sockets. One example: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/75784/Power-Distribution-Connector/ They take metri-pack 280 female terminals. Thanks - I am hoping the shelf will work out and give me enough room to route the cables.

Wasn't able to scan them so just have some photos.

Those were taken ten years ago, all of those trucks are long gone and that junkyard has no bullnose trucks left. I didn't realize then just how spoiled I was. I practically built my F150 from that yard. All of my trim pieces, transmission and transfer case, front driveshaft, seat, wheels, radio, etc came from that same yard. I miss those days. Been awhile since I posted here and haven't had a ton of time to work on the truck but most of it has been installing and routing factory wiring harnesses. The plan is to get everything back as it was and then start adding the improvements. I did a lot of reading up on relay/fuse options and would recommend anyone interested to read this: http://www.bodenzord.com/archives/473 The author is extremely thorough. I was going to do a similar build but wanted something with fewer exposed 'internal use' wires and more relays (for future use). In addition to the relay box I need several larger fused circuits and wanted to avoid a bunch of individual holders. I then strongly considered the Littlefuse HWB60-AL and the mega-flex/midi-flex fuse holders. This was a slight improvement in that they would all interlock but still not quite what I was looking for. That's when i came across the Littelfuse 880089 and the EATON's Bussmann Series 31S-000-0 ssVEC Power Distribution Module The two of these fit what I was looking for although it all got unexpectedly pricey after adding in the Metri-pack connectors/terminals since you buy in bulk from Waytek. The Littelfuse is the same as the Blue Sea Safetyhub 150. Blue Sea has great support but I went with the Littelfuse purely for aesthetic reasons as I like the black cover over the see through I picked up two of the fuse blocks and one relay block. Each battery (dual battery setup) will get its own fuse block and will feed one leg of the relay block. To maintain a somewhat factory look I am installing the shelf (not sure what it's really called) from a diesel truck on the passenger inner fender. The primary battery fuse block and the relay block will be mounted on it. I haven't decided on the drivers side fuse block as I need to first get the aux battery bracket and washer tank installed to see how much room is available. The shelf will also get some spacers to sit a little higher in order to allow more cable routing underneath. I am using some battery terminals that provide (2) 1/0 and (2) 8 awg outs. If you are looking for a different type of battery terminals than you currently have I would check out the zcase terminals to see if they will fit your needs. Never used them but I like the idea. Some photos: Here is a rough simplified sketch of the wiring. If/when the fender starter solenoid goes out I may move things around to simplify it some but I would also need to account for the hot fuel hookup. This wiring leaves out the grounds, trigger wires, and some other items but I just needed something to show the major components. If there are any suggestions/improvements that can be made, happy to hear them.

I haven't but I really need to update the Camano build thread. I'll take some quick photos since everything is strewn out on the living room floor right now, grab some links and post over there shortly.

You mean ja

That sounds like what I saw out there. So one could make a jumper between the DB and Y/LG that they then cut. That way they can revert to stock if wanted.

Jein. (You are going to understand German soon.) There are two scenarios, as shown below. With speed control, which I assume you have, there is yellow/light green after the relay. But on the trucks w/o speed control the wire after the horn switch is dark blue. Further, C305(A/B) is on the steering column and the relay is under the hood. So why not say you'll tap into the dark blue wire under the hood? That'll work for both scenarios. I did mean to but forgot to add the caveat that the Y/LG was for Cruise trucks so glad you mentioned it. I would definitely agree with tapping in under the hood. I was thinking the Y/LG was under the hood though (was messing with wiring today)... Just ran out and checked and it looks like both are under the hood but not the same Y/LG in the diagram. This Y/LG is after the DB and connects to the horns (plural). Might be a PO mod?

Hopefully it will be that

Remote start would be nice. I know it can be done with carbs but I'd have a hard time trusting it. Camano came with manual windows but a PO had put one of those kits in. I pulled it out to replace with the factory setup but it did seem to work just fine. The handle covers looked a little out of place even though they were painted to match. DEI (Viper) 529T or 530T look to be popular window modules that take a - or + trigger from a keyless entry module. I haven't found yet if they contain a built in relay or if they require an external one. Edit: Looks like 530T at least doesn't need an external relay AND provides one-touch up and down which would be really nice.

Haha I think you got them all That wire does look like a good choice and is also at C325 (guess there are two start/run wires for certain truck configs there). Does this sound right for the Horn Honk? User supplied relay (ground trigger) mounted in engine bay: 85 - H1/12 (-200mA from Viper box) 86 - fused +12v (20amp) 87a - Y/LG from truck horn switch (aka steering wheel) 87 - fuse + 12v (20amp) - jumper from 86 30 - Y/LG to truck horn

The parking brake cable is also adjustable on the outside of the frame.

I ordered them the other day but hasn't arrived yet. Worst case for the few 12awg ones I need I can use the A03B die for the wire and then use this one for the metri-pack seal (being careful to not squeeze fully). The NAPA ones turned out to be the same so no luck there. I did a few like Gary mentioned by doubling up the wire and placing a short piece of heat shrink over the sheathing to make it thicker but decided to go with the metri-pack/weather-pack route instead for the rest of my wiring. My order from Waytek came in today so looking forward to wiring in the add-on relay/fuse box and midi fuse blocks.

Yeah, I thought it was on all trucks actually. Pretty sure all of my parts trucks (2 and 4wd) have them. Never realized some didn't come with them.

Here are some hard to make out photos of the middle shield and front shield with a skid plate on Camano. The shield lines up right with the ujoint and typically has a caked on layer of slung grease. My 80 1 ton is actually a woven and leather type material vs the plastic.

Yeah. Something about differences in the stamping/molding process I think. I'll get the box from storage and take a photo of it.

I always assumed it was for ujoint failure protection but not really sure. Nice find!

Thanks for this Gary/Steve! Made me break out the Viper 211HV I picked up on ebay awhile back. Hope it's ok to add all this in one thread despite different brands as it all relates. On that train of thought - would it be worth adding a subsection with a thread for each model (aftermarket or from another vehicle like Bill's) users go to install? May not be that many differences though... The viper pinout is: -- All circuits in these trucks are positive, correct? Like horn and dome light. -- The viper has a switched ignition source that states: "Connect this wire to an ignition source. This input must show (+) 12V with the key in run position and during cranking. Make sure that this wire cannot be shorted to the chassis at any point. This wire will trigger the system if the ignition is turned on before the unit is disarmed (doors unlocked with the remote). It will also honk the vehicle's horn and flash the parking lights (if connected)." For the 86 7.5 it looks like connector 325 (hot fuel 'hot in start or run' - page 105 EVTM) is a good location for this. What about other truck years/motors? Can this wire be connected directly or should it use a relay? I assume the draw is minimal but I don't see anything beyond that description. --- Dome lights H1/4 Black/White (from Primary Harness Wire Connection Guide) "Connect this wire directly to the domelight circuit in the vehicle. The on-board relay will drive circuits up to 30 amps. The polarity of this output is determined by the connection of the input wire H1/3 in the Relay Harness" So no external relay needed but then in the features section it has: IGNITION CONTROLLED DOMELIGHT "If turned on [the feature], the system will turn on the domelight for 30 seconds when the ignition is turned off. The domelight supervision output H1/4 wire must be connected to an optional relay as described in the Primary Harness Wire Connection Guide." Why does it need an optional relay if it has the on-board one? What am I missing here?

Sold at 706. Pretty impressive for just the antenna and short jumper.

But $300? Nice! Didn't realize Ford offered them. I have a NOS Deflectashield brand one for these trucks and found it interesting that it provided different brackets for 80-83 and late 83-86.

$700 with 5 min left

Have you used the 1424B on 12awg? Says it goes down to 14 but not seeing one that includes 12 without going to professional options.

Wow. That is an impressive selection. Nice find!

Oh that's interesting. So it's a 2 piece harness. Weird.