1986F150Six
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Everything posted by 1986F150Six
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Neat brace, Gary! And as Jim would say, "progress is good!"
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Not knowing your budget, what if you purchased both items and listed the instrument bezel for sale? Many good center bezels sell for ~$60-75 and instrument bezels go for about the same or more to the right buyer.
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Center bezel plus instrument bezel. https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-86-Ford-F150-Custom-F250-F350-Bronco-Dash-Instrument-Cluster-Radio-Bezel/274488085308?epid=1528534502&hash=item3fe8c3cb3c:g:lysAAOSw3WZfV~JD
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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?
1986F150Six replied to Gary Lewis's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
It will work just fine! I installed a Carter YF from a 1970 F350 on a Duraspark converted 1986 4.9L. I chose to use a manual choke. -
Great minds working together!
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Welcome, Jeff!
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A high idle is often caused by a vacuum leak. Look on the intake manifold in the area under the carburetor. There is a vacuum "tree" which has 6 or 7 ports, to which are attached several vacuum hoses. Not all ports are used as it depends on options. This area is covered with numerous vacuum lines [hoses and plastic] as well as wiring. One of the ports is angled toward the cab and is nearest the engine block and exhaust manifold [high heat]. This port is difficult to see and when spraying with carb cleaner, looking for vacuum leaks, is easy to miss. The rubber cap gets hard and brittle with age and cracks, creating what can be a large vacuum leak. I found this condition on two trucks, both with what appeared to be original caps [1984 and 1986 with 4.9L engines].
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Hmmmm...I wonder when exactly that was? I suppose I should go read up some more on the 300, and see if I can somehow ID the block. After 1984, I believe. Let me see what I can find... https://www.fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?t=77013
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Who wants to talk to me about paint?
1986F150Six replied to Dorsai's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
Thanks! It really should be - my professional background is almost all networking, and now I get to apply data science to that? Yes, I think I will enjoy this one. They will know who is good and who isn't. But have the same outfit do the body work as does the painting. Otherwise the painters will find something the body man did "wrong". Hmmm, good point. I got the idea from a truck I saw when I was getting the exhaust on mine replaced not long after I got it. There was a nice '62 F100 in a bright red with matching bedliner sitting outside and it just looked great. Matthew, if you are going to have a sprayed in bedliner, check with the installer prior to having the truck painted. I was told by Rhino Liner that the liner would not be warranted if not sprayed on original paint as the heat involved is known to lift freshly painted surfaces. This just means that the bed does not require painting. You will need to decide where you want the bedliner to begin and end. -
Located on the inner fender by the battery.
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Jon, that is probably a really good idea! I may do that yet, it's just that I'm in a bit of a time (and space) crunch so I'm trying to get the the thing mostly assembled so that it can be moved around more or less in one piece. I can pull the engine relatively easy at a later date if need be. Where is a good place to order a rebuild kit from? RockAuto or other? Also, I believe the engine is an '85 or an '86...not 100% sure. I've seen some parts kits advertised as fitting 1968-1985? Is there something different about an '86 over an '85? Just curious if I am shopping for parts, etc. Thanks. At one point in time, the cam shaft bearings size was changed.
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Is it E4AZ-9E731-A?
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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?
1986F150Six replied to Gary Lewis's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
Thanks, Scott! -
WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?
1986F150Six replied to Gary Lewis's topic in Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum
Josh, the green wire just provides a signal to the tachometer. The tachometer must have 12 volts, so I am wondering if the 12 volts is "missing" since your instrument panel lights also do not work unless you use a jump wire? Since you have the instrument cluster out, why not try an experiment to check the function of the tachometer. You can do this without removing the tachometer, but it might be easier/safer to remove the tachometer. On the back of the tachometer, you will find four posts. Using small jumper wires, connect the HEI tach output wire to the "C" terminal. Ground the "G" terminal if your engine is a 6 cylinder [and ground the "8" terminal, too, if an 8 cylinder]. Finally, connect 12 volts to the "B" terminal and start the engine. If the tachometer works, you must have an electrical fault [power or ground] involving the instrument cluster. -
Check price difference. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-Bronco-Truck-F-150-F-250-F-350-Shifter-Bezel-E0TZ-1013100-A/173406392619?hash=item285fd3912b:g:oWwAAOSwVMtbRmZ5 https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-F100-F250-F350-BRONCO-NOS-OEM-FORD-E0TZ-1013100-A-SHIFT-BOOT-BEZEL-RETAINER/273826667873?hash=item3fc1575d61:g:dnYAAOSwxKBZ~4~Z
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/82-86-F150-F250-82-85-BRONCO-NOS-OEM-FORD-E2TZ-1004460-C-XLS-DASH-PANEL-EMBLEM/273827897255?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818142525%26meid%3D163f0419d81146178fce799c4ad35070%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D10%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D284056994852%26itm%3D273827897255%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DFord&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/82-83-F100-F250-F350-BRONCO-NOS-FORD-E2TZ-1022404-A-RH-OUTSIDE-BLACK-DOOR-HANDLE/283468438526?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818142525%26meid%3D163f0419d81146178fce799c4ad35070%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D284056994852%26itm%3D283468438526%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DFord&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851
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Sometimes, one has to get back to work to rest up from a vacation!
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And, that Gary did not lose his cool!