Gary Lewis

Well, that screw just does NOT want to come out. But I was easily able to disconnect the wire and take some pics. Does this help? Any other pics needed?

Amen! If you don't buy now the parts will only get more expensive and picked over. So what you'll find later will be what others have passed by. Been there, done that.

Two things. First, to test the fuse link you'll have to see if there is voltage on the side pointing toward the starter relay on the fender. Then you'll have to see if the other side connects to the inertia switch w/o going to ground. If so, then you could solder the two ends of the fuse link back together. Second, while it is your thread and you can do whatever you want, if when replying by email you'd click the three dots shown below and delete all the extraneous baggage, meaning the previous comments that are in the response, your thread would be a lot easier to read.

Have you read the Dana 44 tab on the Front Axles tab here: Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials. Yours should, given that it is an '84, have the snap ring internally. Have you removed it?

Vic - I think all we know is that it was "gloss black", as shown below from our page at Documentation/Exterior/Exterior Trim & Moulding:

I haven't installed mine permanently but have done so for testing. It bolts up nicely to the fender if you have the original brackets, so I don't see a need to rivet anything. As for the aluminum plate, you are talking about the "floor" of the box? IIRC that thing's bent like a wave and might not be easy to replicate. But I can check mine later to see if you'd like.

Jim - I'd forgotten that, but now that you mention it I remember it. Ouch! Dane - Gotta feel go to get out and do something!

Cool! And just to show you it can be done, here's your Youtube:

Note that he asked that you "Let me know if you're interested by using the email function on though my site handle." He's not on lots right now, so just click on his handle and then click on Send Email To...

I've added the inertia switch to a tab called Part Numbers here: Documentation/Fuel Systems/460 Fuel Systems. But for simplicity and ease of use:

CONGRATULATIONS!!!!! Isn't it amazing how much better the truck feels when the RPM's come down with the OD? Jim told me that years ago when I put the ZF5 in Dad's truck, and he was really right. The change from the C6 to the ZF5 was wonderful. On the starter, you are running DS-II, right? If so, check to see that your module is retarding the timing. As discussed, the way to do that is to pull the red/light blue wire off the relay and apply battery voltage to it. You should see the timing come back ~4 degrees and the idle RPM drop. As for the Powermaster alternator, that's what was on Big Blue when I got him. But it needed a part and when I called Powermaster I learned they don't sell parts. You have to return it. That's when the 1G went on. And now the 3G is on there. I want to be able to pick up a replacement wherever I am should the one on there fail. So I have a Powermaster apart in a box I've been trying to give away for years. Want it?

There is a multiconductor "jumper" that is necessary for adding speed control. It plugs into the two halves of C305 and pulls out the power and horn pad signals for the horn relay and the speed control. You can see it in the illustration below. The connector labeled C305 is the one from the truck's harness. The connector labeled C305A is the female connector for the jumper, and the connector it is plugged into is the other half of C305 going to the turn signal switch and then to the horn pad via the brushes.

The gaskets that L&L sent.

You've found part(s) of the problem. Your blue wire is Fuse Link S in the schematic below, and that may not reconnect very nicely, but you will need it. From there the yellow wire goes to the inertia switch, which is bad. From that the yellow wire runs to the relay you pointed out, which is the fuel pump relay. From there the pink/black wire goes to C120. The pink/black coming in from the top is from the ignition switch which gives the pump full battery voltage in Start. Otherwise it gets reduced voltage due to the .75 ohm resistor. So you need to figure out why the blue fuse link was cut and replace the inertia switch. And more? The red wire? I got lost there.

Who's bra DO you have then?

Matt - I'll see what I can do tomorrow for pics. I might even get that reluctant thing out of there and figure out why it doesn't work, despite having a new bulb.

Ok, I'm ready to install the headers tomorrow. The batteries are disconnected and I have padding material to-hand. Plus I have studs ready to go in the end bolt holes in the heads. But, do I need to sand off the engine paint that is on the heads around the ports? I sure hope not, and I've not done that before, but thought I'd see what y'all think.

Shaun - How about writing the ultimate how-to? Take pics and write up what you do. I'll help if you want on editing, but I doubt you need it.

Yes, I'm still not sure. But it was laying on the work table, so I put them in place, though not "on", to see how they'd look. May do the headlight doors and grille in black. We shall see what it looks like - when the time comes.

Odds and ends plus cleaning the shop today. (The shop isn't "clean", but it is adequate to have brought the headers in.) Tomorrow starts the installation of the headers. Back on Jan 25th I installed the engine and found that it dropped the front 1", from 43" at the top of the wheel opening to 42". But that was still 1" higher than the rear. Since then I've installed the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and tranny. Plus two large batteries, the hydroboost unit, the master cylinder, etc. And today the front is level with the rear @ 41" off the floor. But I still have the exhaust, t-case, driveshafts, radiator & coolant, and bumper and winch. Wonder how much more the front will come down? And, I wonder if I'll need the heavier springs. Also, I put the EFI/carb adapter on the lower plenum and sat the 750 Eddy on it. But I had to turn the banjo fuel inlet fitting around as it hits the plenum if pointed forward. You can see where it is in this pic, which brings up which fuel system to use. The later system comes up over the transmission and the back of the engine while the '85 system comes all the way up under the aux battery and from there up to the carb. If I use the later system I should be able to put the return-style regulator on the firewall and connect to the later supply and return lines with the factory fittings, and then go right into the carb. Thoughts? Last, I did some testing to see what different windshield trim would look like. What'cha think?

Make sure you catch that I didn't actually pour the Seafoam in.

But, where's the link? Or are you embedding it?

Ford didn't put the AOD behind the 351W. My guess is that it wouldn't stand up well to the extra torque of the longer-stroke engine if abused. But if you aren't hard on it I'd think it would work well - once it starts shifting. By the way, on the C6 when this happens some have suggested a hard romp in reverse. As fast and far as you dare go. It is said that it passes the ATF through the governor the other way and sometimes frees them up. Don't know if it really works on a C6 or if there's any chance it will on an AOD, but I thought I'd mention it. But, I did use Seafoam successfully on a C6. It had been sitting for years and when I installed it the thing wouldn't shift automatically, but would with the lever. So after many miles of trying to get it to shift, and before I learned about driving in reverse, I stopped at a parts store and bought a bottle of Seafoam. Went out and laid it in the seat, started up, and it shifted perfectly thereafter.

I just had lunch and my soup looked just like that. On the video, I assume, I didn't follow the link very far and decided I didn't want to disable my ad blocker. But if you upload that to Youtube you can embed it here. See the Embedding tab on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's.

Yes, you are making progress, and before Jim says it, progress is good! I don't know about the AOD, but surely someone does. How many miles have you driven it? I ask because sometimes things loosen up with a few miles. But stuck in 2nd you aren't going far.