Gary Lewis

I agree with the question about the single, uninterrupted wire. But on the question of a separate wire that didn't have the splice, that's hard to figure out from the MPC. Let's await an answer on the other question?

Let me try to explain how I see it and see if it makes any sense. You had the power tailgate window, so you had the wiring shown on Page 123, which included a run of Circuit 400 to the Power Windows wiring on Page 120. And, as shown on Page 120, that run from the tailgate wiring should include one side of C1955. Now you have the power windows, and I think that provides the other side of C1955, and you just plug the two together.

Here's the rest of that circuit. And Scott is right - you should be able to follow back from the tailgate switch on the HVAC panel and see where it goes.

This will probably have to be a several-post solution. But here's the first one. On Page 120 of the '85 EVTM (Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1985 EVTM/Power Windows) we see the schematic below. And note that the circuit has a light blue/black dot color. Further, C1955 is shown on the next page as Blue with one connection and is in the LH cowl area. And on Page 122 there's an illustration showing it about where it is in your pic. So that matches and that connector appears to be C1955. But you don't find the other half of C1955? The wire that goes to splice S852 and branches to the RH front window control as well as to C1953?

No, but I did work in the electric utility industry and was involved, briefly, in building a nuclear power plant. Does that count? So, you think my grounds are OTT? (The Brits get it - Over The Top.) Or is it the prep? Or both? Anyway, at this point all I have left to do with the electrical system is to put the ground strap from the engine to the firewall, although there's not much need for that given those fender/cab grounds. But I'll see where it might go and get it on today. And then test the clutch switch and call the electrical system good. Then it is on to the headers. But, before doing that I need to clean off the work table. And put some tools away. And generally CLEAN!

Ok, now I understand.

Strange. No price. No mention of engine nor transmission, though it appears to be a C6. But the truck is clean.

Yes, nice. Doesn't seem to be rusty, although the front bumper is.

Matt - Looks like the switch comes with the wiring. Here's the part number: And here's the only illustration for it in the master parts catalog:

Sorry to see that, Cory! I knew another guy with gout, and a teeny little pill controlled it, and quickly. Did they give you any medication?

There's info on checking codes with test lights and analog volt meters on our page here: Documentation/Electrical/Electronic Engine Control (EEC). But the reader is the best way.

Well done!

Train? And, why not let Henry drive? What the deal with him and trains? Standard Oil I understand, but not trains.

I've noticed the birds being loud here these days. I think it may have something to do with so little background noise. As for , the thing today was just so bizarre! The nut was there. I could see it. All it took was 5 minutes to loosen the other bolt, pry a bit, and slide it over. But no, he had to leave it to the front and clamp down with another bolt, which bent the tab on the fender over that nut. It's ok as it went back fairly well when I clamped down with the bolt and washer, but it was just the sheer stupidity of it. I probably ought to make a list, which would include: wiring around the inertia switch and oil pressure switch awa the resistance wire to the fuel pump; hacking up the crossmember; hacking up the radiator support; putting the fluid on top of the liner in the clutch master; the bolt today on the fender; having only 3 of 6 bolts in the driver's side perch; etc. I could probably go on and on. Maybe I don't want to remember. I'm thinking I'm really going to enjoy driving this truck when I get it together, and there's a faint glow at the end of the tunnel.

I love it! Thanks for the update. I'm anxious to see the tow hooks. And I heartily recommend the front receiver. Mine mounts to the four bolts of the winch.

Welcome, Gid! I welcomed you in your other thread, so I'll save it here. But, could you do us and yourself a favor? Put the info about your truck in a signature? That way we'll know what it is as we try to help you, and won't have to guess. And, if you don't mind, put your name there as well? That way we can be on a first name basis, which is just more personal.

Welcome, Gid! Glad you joined. Is it really Chicago? I ask because I used to live in Elgin and when people asked I'd say Chicago 'cause they wouldn't know Elgin but would Chicago. And, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I knew the town. So, pizza? Lou's?????? Rail? My father and brother were both hog heads (locomotive engineers to the rest of you), but I was a brakeman during my 16 months while I went to school. The Santa Fe, prior to BNSF, out of Arkansas City, KS going south. On the truck, it sounds like you have several problems. I'll sit back and read the mail while Jim helps you 'cause it can get confusing with several jumping in at once.

I have to say my phone is a 100 years old .......... ok 50 years old ........... ok it's old But like my old truck it works and does what I needed it to do for me. I know years ago I down loaded the QR reader app to play with it but being I did not use it after that I removed it from my phone. There may be others like me that would like to see what the site is about or in need of help and why I said the www. name should be on the sticker, and it is thank you. Dave ---- I'm not against having the url on the sticker. But if there was a slick way of also incorporating the QR code so they don't have to take a pic of the URL and then type it in it would be nice.

I may have a fuse block set up for power windows and locks. And I know I have one w/o. So, if need be I can check out the other fuse block. Let me know if it is needed.

Thanks, Dane. It would be cool if we had a specific place to put the QR code. Like the grille of the truck?

I don't know what the least amount of lift you can get with a solid-axle swap is. Mine also has the SuperDuty spring swap, which raises it a bit more. And since I don't yet have all of the weight in, it isn't as low as it'll get. I still have the exhaust, t-case, radiator, and all fluids to add, which will bring it down some. But Jim is right about the F250 front suspension. Leaf springs and TTB's shouldn't be used together in my book.

Angelo - Sorry, I didn't realize that third one can be a window sticker. But, like Mark/Dyn Blin, I like it best. Mark - Did try the QR code? Works fine for me, but Dave didn't get a popup asking if he wanted to go to the site.

Another "didn't get much done on the truck" day, but I did get the fender-to-cab grounds on. As you can see, I used the fender mounting bolts and the hood hinge mounting bolts to do that. But, it wasn't quite that simple. The bolts were rusty, so I media blasted them so I'd have clean metal. Then I "painted" everything but the head and top of the washer with aluminum-based anti-seize. On the fenders I marked where the terminal would hit and took that area down to bare, shiny metal with the Dremel, and then painted that with anti-seize. But the hood hinge was clean so I didn't bother it. However, it wasn't actually the target. Instead, the welded-on nuts inside of the cab were the target. And to ensure they were clean I ran a tap through them. And once everything was together I cleaned the tops of the washers and the bolt heads and painted them. So, with all that and #4 wires on both sides I think the fenders are well and truly bonded to the cab. And, while I was at it I replaced the following monstrosity that was holding the fender to the cab on the driver's side. Apparently couldn't find the sheetmetal nut on the arm extending out from the cab, so used that arrangement. I noticed the edge of the nut showing when I pulled the nut/bolt/washer combo off, so pulled the other bolt, pried up on the fender, and slid the sheetmetal nut into position. Then I found the right bolt/washer combo used that.

I'm having a hard time finding those. Sorry.

Ok guys, we are on a roll. Or at least a loaf. Keep those pic's coming. Cutoff is sometime Wednesday.