Gary Lewis

That's a really good lesson to learn, and to communicate. Thanks for passing it on. And I'm glad you got it sorted.

Oh yes, I spoke with Marty at Lokar. He says the system shows that they have 1 of the ED-5011-24 dip sticks on the shelf. But that it won't matter from whom I order it, it'll come from them. So I called Summit and ordered it. And while I had them on the line I ordered a Dorman 614-067 boot clamp.

Check out the page at Documentation/Engines/300 Six and then the Instructions tab. And, please let me know if you find the info you need.

Bob - Thanks. But, I may not be rebuilding this thing. Called Driveshafts Direct and had to leave a message. But called Denny's Driveshafts and had a very pleasant conversation with Denny. Turns out that Ford used both Spicer and American driveshafts during the '95 period, and they take different double-cardan parts. So before I order I need to determine which one I have. However, he said the joint may well be fine, so recommends placing the shaft in the vice and rotating the joint 12 ways from Sunday. If it binds or is rough then rebuild it. But if not, lube it and move on. And, while I was on a roll, I asked him about the spline engagement. He said "What's the probability you are going to be playing Dukes Of Hazard?" If not, you are fine. Given that, tomorrow I'll put it in the vice and see how the double-cardan joint moves and sounds. And, I'll pull the caps off the joint at the other end and see what the bearing surfaces look like. Maybe there's no need to replace anything.

I think you are right, Jim. Thanks. (But I had to look "brayer" up.)

Yes, the eccentric can be turned once the nut is released, although it sometimes takes a hammer and drift to get it to come loose. But frequently the truck won't come into alignment with the factory eccentric. Instead I've had to add an aftermarket one like the one below. And, by the way, it really did come in as the eccentric and not a fan switch.

Bill - Got really good with the center carrier bearing/u-joint combo on my '58 w/a 348. Could lay that carrier bearing over any time I wanted to. Dane - I'll check on having this one rebuilt, but the joints themselves are from $16 to $25 depending on which ones I buy. So for three of them, two in the double cardan, I'm only out $50 to $75. However, there are other parts and seals in that joint, and I don't see a kit available from Rock Auto for that. But Driveshafts Direct advertises double cardan kits for Jeeps, so I'll call them tomorrow to see if they have one for this. Bruce - Thanks for the band info. And, for the Masta Performance link, again. Not sure I'll go with them as I'd like to buy a flexible dip stick. Called Marty at Lokar today asking if he knows who has the 24" one in stock, but he wasn't in. Maybe he'll call tomorrow.

Let me see what I can do on the '81 FSM. We are headed out on a grocery run tomorrow and I hope to get Angelo's throttle pedal shipped as well, so I'm not sure what I'll get done in the shop. But, I'll see what I can do. But what you described makes sense about the lifters. Lets see if we can get a definitive answer. On the valve cover, I think the rubber stamp idea is probably your best bet then. But I've not done it, so please show us how you do it.

Welcome. That's what this forum is all about - helping others.

Yes, you only need the pedal. You can't use an '87 and later pedal assembly in a Bullnose, but the pedals themselves swap into a Bullnose pedal assembly. I put a '95 hydroboost pedal in Big Blue's '85 pedal assembly quite easily, with no modification.

I don't know the answer to the question about valve springs, but if they are symmetrical then it doesn't matter. Are you saying that the earlier manual might be different? Do you need it on the site? I have an '81 FSM and could put that section on. As for the painting, I'm not sure about the casting marks. But I'm a bit worried about the FORD emblem on the valve cover. I'm afraid it will look sloppy. In his Salvaging Rosewood tutorial (Documentation/Interior/Salvaging Rosewood) Jonathan explains what he used to paint the silver bead on the bezels. Perhaps that would work on your valve cover?

It isn't the year of the brake pedal, but the application. It should come from a truck with hydroboost. See this post in my build thread on Big Blue. You'll see that the pin that the link attaches to is higher on the hydroboost pedal.

Cool! Or maybe HOT! But well done, nonetheless.

Thanks! I bought it as I will need it for Big Blue. Turns out our page says 2" is the right size:

Yes, the various parts are very reliable. I've not seen any of the parts fail. As for the later ones, my catalog only goes through 1989, so I can't say after that. But I know that by '95 the system changed from a vacuum-operated servo to an electrically-operated servo. However, through 1989 Ford used similar servos. You can see the part numbers on our page at Documentation/Electrical/Speed Control and on the Part Numbers tab. I just added that tab and its contents so you could see the parts in the kits. You'll see that D9AZ 9C735-B was the servo used from 1980 through 1983. Then E4AZ 9C735-B was introduced in 1984 and used through 1987. And E73Z 9C735-A was introduced in 1988. However, I have handled all of them and can't tell them apart, so would bet they will interchange.

Angelo - This thread is about how to use the forum, not modifying it. Do you want me to move this to the Website & Forum Suggestion Box? That's where suggestions on changes should go.

The catalog actually says 1980 - 86, which I think is a mistake: 80/86 F-U100/350 Kit: E0TZ 17696-E Head: E0TZ 17723-A R.H. & L.H.-single position stainless 6" x 9"

Talked to Sky (Clancy?) and he assured me that my driveshaft will be fine. He said that it isn't going to come out any farther than it does on the lift. That fits with what I found yesterday when I strapped the tool box to the axle and it didn't come down any more. So, I'm good to go on the front shaft. However, I'm going to pull it and put new u-joints in it now that I know it is the right one. Never done a double-cardan joint before, but I guess I'll learn. And, I need to get a new band for the boot. Anyone have a source for those? I also asked about the shocks. He said they can go with the boots up, down, or sideways, it doesn't matter. So I pulled them and reinstalled them with the boots up. My thinking was that if they leak they'll leak less that way. And, that will put the boot farther from harm's way. Then there's the bumper. IT IS ON! It was a bit more of a battle than I expected, but it is on with new bolts and they are torqued. However, those 5/8" G8's that hold the bracket to the front of the frame take 160 lb-ft and that took all I had. Not turning the torque wrench, but holding backup wrench. There's no way to get a breakover or ratchet on due to the clearance, so you have to back it up with an open-end wrench. And there wasn't anything to put the wrench against, so one hand was holding that and the other pulling the torque wrench. I can guarantee the bumper will not fall of! But it is level with the truck, centered, and squared with it. I'm happy! Having said that, there are several 1/4" screws that hold the upper and lower plates to the bumper itself, and they are rusted. You can sorta see them in the pic above around the edge of the bumper on top. Two of those also held spacers that keep the inside edges of the top plates the proper distance from the center bracket. I took those off, or maybe I should say I twisted them off, so I could move the bracket for installing the bumper. And while they were off I polished the rust off the bumper and then used stainless screws to take their place. You can see the difference in the pics below. So I need to get more of those screws and replace all of those rusted ones.

Pete - You are now on the map.

Oh, I forgot to mention that you are close enough to come to the show, assuming we have it this year. Or, more likely, participate in the on-line show if we go that way. I'm in Skiatook, OK just north of Tulsa. And on the 3rd Sat of each Sept I have a Ford truck show. We have members from CO, KS, AR, MS, AL, TX, and OK here. Oh yes, Numberdummy from CA and Vinny from VA. Plus, one from New Zealand and one from Australia.

Pete - Welcome! Glad you joined! We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd be happy to add you - with your permission. Your plans sound good. Get the truck ready for retirement. On the VIN, there should be a partial on the frame. That is discussed in this post and later, with pics. I hope you'll start a thread in the main section and show us your truck and discuss your plans. (You'll get more followers there than here, but you can discuss it wherever you want.)

Morning. You are now on the map. But I hope you'll do as asked in the email "Please read the guidelines, below my signature, and then click on this link to say that you agree to adhere to them: I agree to adhere to the guidelines. You will then be taken to the New Members Start Here folder where we ask you to start a new thread/topic in that folder about yourself and your truck." Why is that important? Because all members are required to adhere to the guidelines. Those that won't have been banned, and we do not want that to happen to you. And, glad the site is helping. That's the intent!

We've been blessed with a lot of new members over the last few months, and they may not have gotten their heads around how to best view and use the forum. So I thought I'd give some suggestions, and some of this is buried in the poll on Facebook, but I thought it warranted its own thread to get more visibility. Notifications: It is possible to get notifications via email when a new post is made on any topic. You can read about that on the Email Notifications tab in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. Posting via Email: It is also possible to post by replying to an email notification that you get. However, that can create ugly posts, so please read about that in the Email Notifications tab as well. Browsing: Let's say you aren't subscribed to get email notification, but want to just browse to see what has been said. As Jim mentioned, the blue links indicate threads which have posts you've not read, and the purple indicates threads on which you are current. But that brings up the bit about which of the two "views" are best to use: Main View: This is the view you get when you go to the Main page or click on Bullnose Forum. Here you see all of the folders and the pinned items, then below them you see the threads in the main section in chrono order. However, you do not see things that have been posted in the folders. Topics View: If you click the Topics View link you'll be shown things that have changed in chrono order, even if they are buried in one of the folders. This is a handy way to keep up with what is being said w/o having to drill down into each folder.. Here's a shot of the Main View, and you can tell you are in Main View because it gives you the Topics View option: Here's a shot of the Topics View, and you can tell you are in Topics View because it gives you the Main View option: Hope that helps. But if any of you have other tips, or upgrades on those, please chime in.

Good idea, David.

Jim - That's a good point, the blue indicates threads which have posts you've not read, and the purple indicates threads on which you are current. But it brings up the question of where to put that verbiage. Do I add a tab on the FAQ's page? And it brings up the bit about what "view" is best to use. Here's a bit about what could be said: There are two views to the forum: Main View: This is the view you get when you go to the Main page or click on Bullnose Forum. Here you see all of the folders and the pinned items, then below them you see the threads in the main section in chrono order. However, you do not see things that have been posted in the folders. Topics View: If you click the Topics View link you'll be shown things that have changed in chrono order, even if they are buried in one of the folders. This is a handy way to keep up with what is being said w/o having to drill down into each folder.. Here's a shot of the Main View, and you can tell you are in Main View because it gives you the Topics View option: Here's a shot of the Topics View, and you can tell you are in Topics View because it gives you the Main View option: