Gary Lewis

I don't have any experience with HF welders either. And no experience with flux core at all. But what I've heard about flux core is that it leaves residue similar to a stick welder. If that's true you have to clean the weld between each pass as you would with stick, meaning use a chipping hammer and/or wire brush. However it is a whole lot less expensive as you don't have the bottle, hoses, and regulator. So, for $100 I don't think you could go too far wrong.

Interesting, Angelo. I hope it is a bit smaller than a 460 'cause the 460 in Big Blue is maxing out the space available. Smaller would sure be better!

True, Bruce. But in my case I'll be running the EFI fuel pump, so plenty of pressure. And it'll drop down to 5 psi via the return regulator, so there will be lots of circulation back to the tank.

Do we need to have a page on this, or is this thread adequate?

I would think the direct power test is the best you can do. And if it doesn't roll up properly then you probably have a problem. I re-read your earlier post and understand that you got aftermarket motors and put them in the factory setup. And you have new sweeps. But it is still very slow. I've only had one Bullnose truck with power windows, and they were slow but worked. So I'm not much help. But have you tried lubricating the window/sweeps with silicone spray?

No problem. Happy to help. And thanks, the underside is much better now than it was when I pulled the truck down for transformation. The engine had been leaking oil and it was gross under there. So I spent a lot of time with brake cleaner and paper towels cleaning it up. Now I can work under there w/o having to use hand cleaner all over just to clean up.

Turns out that we got home earlier than expected since it was raining cats and dogs and we didn't want to make one of the stops we had planned. So, I got out to the shop today, and the first thing I did was to cut a piece of heavy paper to fit the engine plate, registering on the starter bolt holes. Then I transferred that to the tranny and a bit of the paper stuck of the edge, as shown below. Given that, the tranny is slightly smaller than the engine plate, and the engine plate clears so the tranny should. If that's true, then why not install the tranny? So took the header loose and pulled it over against the frame for clearance. And with a bit of pushing and shoving the tranny went in. Here's a shot from the front showing that none of the tranny is peeking out past the engine plate. And here is a shot from the rear showing about 1/8" of clearance. But the header isn't tightened down yet, so it'll move. However, since there was 1/8" clearance to the engine plate when it was tightened down before, I think I'll have that much clearance when I tighten it down - tomorrow.

The CarQuest stores are independently owned and operated, Advance just owns them corporately to bring in sales for the company. In other words CQ is just an Advance subsidiary. The Speed Perks system they had before was much better. You get nothing more than $5 now. Before, you could get $10, $20, and $50; that's gone now. There was a brief period during this past years holiday season where they were actually letting you double up on them at checkout, but then they realized how much money they were losing so they took that away again. I can't even see what a particular account has; just how many points. The commercial desk is the way to go, best thing to do is make friends with the parts store guys. A lot of times they will hook you up. I know I definitely take care of my repeat customers, friends and family. Yeah 3/4x16 is a pretty common thread size, you can get them with different size bodies. No, any and every emissions equipment feasible on this thing is long, long gone. That is a thought as well, but I'd like to keep it away from the pan/pulleys. If I snap a belt, who knows what will happen. Maybe I'm being too picky. Wouldn't it be easier to put a shield over the hoses running along the frame to under the battery than to shield the whole filter assembly outside the frame. You'd only need to shield the bit in line with the belts if that's your worry.

No. Here's what your post looks like, and I've circled the baggage that could be deleted. This is your thread so if you don't mind the baggage that's up to you. But it might limit how many reply as it is hard to pick out what you said from the baggage. But if you reply this way to other's threads they may not appreciate it.

No. My next post will show what the baggage is, but I wanted you to see what a clean post made from inside the form looks like. Log on via the link at the bottom of the email that says: If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Rear-Bumper-Brackets-Sport-Bumper-tp31657p57792.html And you'll see the difference.

That's actually a good question. But, let's see how good these several answers are: I didn't get lined up as well on the F to edge as the D since it is hard to get to, so I'm guessing that the actual reading should be 13 1/16".

Your memory is as short as mine - you didn't do it on that post. 😎 On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 1:40 PM gotfords [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

Spacing, sorry. If I recall correctly, you measured them out on Rusty at one point and posted the pictures. Let's see if this works. These pics are of Dad's original hood, which I still have. The R & D are both 2" wide at the base. So I measured from one to the other and get 13 3/8", which appears to be the same for the other letters. But since the O is wider you can't use the same measurement technique and I only eyeballed it.

Thanks, Troy. That makes sense.

Do you mean the letters themselves or the spacing thereof?

Troy - Those are good observations from someone that's been there, done that. And the vetting process you described is something I'd assumed but hadn't mentioned, so some may not have understood that it would happen. I would use the same guidelines on Facebook as we do here on the forum. And you are right, there are a handful of Bullnose FB pages. I'm a member of several, and I'll confess I've not tracked which ones are full of what kinds of people. Maybe I should. Perhaps one of them is tightly managed? Which begs the question of whether we need our own or not, doesn't it? But I wouldn't expect people to follow content from a FB page to this forum. If we do this, and that's a big IF, some of us will be on both. However I'd expect that 90 - 95% of forum people won't be on FB and vice versa. Having said that, I would expect there to be some crossover, mainly from FB to forum. I say that because I believe that some FB users will come to realize that if you want continuity, like a build thread or serious problem solving, then the forum is the place to do that. But forum members might learn that getting a quick answer to a simple question is faster on FB. However, Troy, not to put you on the spot but it appears you voted "no". And yet in reading what you wrote I'd have bet on "yes". If I'm right, and if you don't mind, could you share your thinking on why you voted that way?

If the rain that just passed here is headed your way you'll be able to set in the cab and see where it is coming from. If not, maybe a hose?

Yes, I agree it might get crowded at the back of the engine. Yours is working, so let's see how mine works out before you start planning. On the starter, are you starting it inside a garage? If so, some of that sound is reflected back off the walls and wouldn't be heard outside. Or at least it would not be as loud. On your first recording the initial crank has the over-run but the second doesn't. On the second recording I hear it. I don't remember mine doing that, but what I think is happening is that the engine catches and races away from the starter, so the starter spins freely. Since these are geared starters the gear that engages the flywheel doesn't spin as fast as on a non-geared starter. So if you don't let go of the key immediately when the engine catches it'll continue to spin but not fast enough to be kept engaged with the flywheel. But I don't hear anything I'd worry about.

I did see them, thanks. I think you are replying via email rather than by logging onto the forum. And when you reply by email it brings with it a lot of baggage from the previous post - unless you clear it out. So if you want to reply by email then click the three dots at the bottom of the page, as shown below, and delete the baggage. Then your posts will be much cleaner. But, that won't put the pictures in the post. You'll only have links to the pics. The only way to have the pictures in the post is to click the URL in the email to log onto the forum and post from there.

Scott - In these two shots of Huck's filthy engine you can see how the fuel lines come up over the back and into and out of the fuel rails. I'm wondering if I can put that setup in place but where these go to the rails connect to either nylon line or EFI-rated hose and go into the return-style fuel pressure regulator I have. Mount that regulator on the firewall or back of the intake manifold/lower plenum and go from there to the carb. That way I'd keep the lines far from the exhaust and not have to go to the front of the engine and then back. Plus, I'd be plumbed for EFI when the time comes.

Brian - I don't recognize that t-case. It doesn't look like an NP208, or a BW1345 that I would have expected on your truck, or a BW1356 that I think is on that ZF5. And, it occurred to me that I don't need to take more pics as I already have them. Here's the front view of a BW1345, and you can see the 6 holes where it bolts to the tranny, with no mount provisions otherwise: And in this pic you can see the 6 bolt holes on the back of the tranny, as well as how the tranny bolts to the mount and the mount to the crossmember:

Good job, Rob! Yes, the search function helps a BUNCH! I put that '85 document together from the 36 separate "sections" of the '85 EVTM we have on the site. Then I ran the optical character recognition (OCR) software on it and wound up with a searchable '85 EVTM. I don't want to put it on the site, for various reasons, so "hid" it in plain view on the Test page. It has been very handy many times as I've tried to find circuits or wires based on the colors in a picture. The question of what wires go where from that connector have come up several times recently. One was by a guy on Facebook wanting to put a tach in a truck with idiot lights and was wondering what wires go where between the two different sized instrument connectors. Another was when I was doing the ICVR testing and wanted to know which pin goes where. So maybe I need to create a spreadsheet that maps them? I could start with your info and just add the 14-pin info.

I'm probably not going to make it to the shop today, but can take a pic tomorrow to show how the ZF5 mounts.

I don't think that cracked mount is on the t-case. The t-case only mounts to the tranny with the ~6 bolts in a circle. It doesn't have a mount to anything else. That looks like an ear on the transmission itself where it bolts to the mount that sits on the crossmember.

That's a neat solution for a turn and filter combined.