Gary Lewis

Well, if they do you won't have problems with mice.

Somehow I missed that. And I hope now to be able to get them out there with me. I'll have to be careful how I say this, but our granddaughter has never met a button she didn't push. And she didn't take kindly to being told no. She once did exactly what she was told not to do, and when asked why said "Because you told me not to." Case-in-point: Her other grandfather called a few months ago and couldn't get the Subie started. It'd been setting for a few months at their house and he was sure the battery couldn't be dead. I suggested that he open the right rear door and check the dome light. He asked why there, and I said "That's where your granddaughter sits and she plays with the dome light switch like it is a toy - in spite of being told not to." He called back to say the switch was on and the battery was dead. Her brother is less obvious about it, but we had a serious discussion a year ago when using the winch on Big Blue to pull the mower out of the "swamp". I handed him the remote and told him not to push the button, but he did anyway. I told him that I was going to give him one more chance - if he didn't do E.X.A.C.T.L.Y what I told him then we were done. He'd go in the house and not touch the truck or the mower again. He listened and obeyed. So I've been waiting until they mature a bit. I'm hoping that now is the time since they are almost nine. I'll have to have a serious discussion with them when they go in the shop. It is my way or the highway, and there are no second chances. There are buttons, knobs, and levers in there that can hurt someone badly. I really would like to teach them how to make things, how to fix things, and how to use tools - safely. And maybe now is the time.

Haven't tried to do anything with the dizzy other than turn the engine over manually a couple of turns. I'll try the grease approach. Thanks. On the sealer, I want to use something that easy to get out as I have the injectors to go in there eventually. So the Loctite PST seems like a good approach rather than something that sets up and would have to be chipped out.

Not a bad price, although "Needs some work but will run" isn't awe inspiring. And he doesn't even tell us what engine or transmission? I can tell it has the C6 and the Holley 4180C, but is it a 351W or a 460? And, what is the heater hose valve off the rear of the passenger's side valve cover?

The blue ones are just right for Big Blue, but the brown ones I have in there are working. Maybe I'll get them painted when I paint the dash cover, kick panels, et al.

Looks great, Angelo!!!! Well done!

Production stay is done save for drilling and tapping the holes for the dip stick and the EEC coil mount and milling a bullnose on it. But I can't do that latter until Sunday at the earliest as the router bits don't come in until Saturday. Maybe I can mill and finish it on Sunday. I need to find a good check point as it now looks like our kids that were in Nicaragua and then Houston are going to move in with us in about two weeks. And when that happens I'll be playing with grandtwins rather than the truck. So I'm thinking I'll get the dip stick stay and coil mounts done and installed, and then clean the shop. And if there's time left before they get here maybe I can get the front driveshaft rebuilt and installed. If there's more time then I could do some odds and ends, like: Install the passenger's side spark plug heat shield Figure out why the speedo cable isn't long enough and get it connected. Probably just too much of it up under the hood where I installed the transducer for the speed control. Install the oil pressure switch, sending unit, and connection to the aftermarket gauge Connect the aftermarket temp gauge and figure out how to install the original sender as well so I can have both gauges working. Install the various vacuum fittings and plugs in the lower plenum Install the injector port plugs that came with the carb adapter from Scotty. He said to use some sealer on them. I wonder if Loctite PST would be good for that or Permatex #2? Fill the brake system and bleed it Figure out why the dizzy hasn't dropped all the way in Man, there's still a lot to do!

Yes, there's always something you forget. Then you realize "I should have kept that!" But you are getting there.

Not sure it is worth that, but maybe. Doesn't look at clean on the inside as I expected from the first pic, but then the right side doesn't look that good either. However, it could be made into a nice rig.

If the air cleaners are breaking then you probably have the 2bbl version. The HO versions are much stronger and I've never seen one break.

Chad - Why not use Ford's instructions on that carb? They are on the site at Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carbs Chokes & EFI/Holley 4180C. Then click on the Ford Service Manuals tab and take your pic.

Got the prototype stay done this morn, and will now be working on the "production" one. The learning was that I can't mount the coil bracket over two studs, even with both mounting "holes" being slotted. So the lower leg of the mount will be held to the stay with a bolt, as shown below. And, while I like to use 1/4-28 threads on the studs, the other fasteners in the area are 1/4-20, so I'll tap the production stay for 1/4-20 to prevent confusion

The tach clusters came with a speedo having both the standard odometer and a trip odo. You can easily swap that speedo into your cluster. And, we have the instructions on the site for adjusting the new odometer to your current odometer's reading.

The reason the pic is upside down is because of the way you had the camera oriented when you took the pic. Most cameras and phone embed the orientation info in the picture's metadata and most apps are smart enough to read the info and correctly orient the pic. So you never see that you had the camera upside down. This forum isn't smart enough to do that, nor are many other forums. There are a couple of ways of fixing it. One is to open it with an app that re-orients it and then save it. Sometimes you have to change the pic slightly to be able to save it. But that usually does it. Another way is the way I did it. I right-clicked the pic, copied it, and pasted it into the app called Paint. Then I rotated it and saved it.

I paid a little more than what you sold yours for. I was merely stating finding these for any less isn't easy anymore. Oh. Ok. Wish I'd thought about you before I sold it. What else do you need?

If you got it for $100 you did well. I just sold one for $200 + shipping.

Would valve cover washers for a diesel fit? https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-NEW-OEM-Ford-E3TZ-6A532-A-Valve-Cover-Washer-1983-1987-6-9L-V8-Diesel/184120010780?fits=Year%3A1985%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item2ade68681c:g:pEAAAOSw99ReFlZo They might. Looks like they would. And they'd be Ford, not Chebby.

Big Blue drops 3 3/4" when the weight is put on the wheels. That's with everything but the winch and cooling system in. Bumper, dual batteries, engine, tranny, t-case, etc are all in. I'm going to guess that it'll settle another 1/4" with everything. But right now the truck is level, with the top of the wheel well openings at 41" to the floor.

Well, I was afraid of that. I now remember giving it to Brandon/Bruno2. Sorry!

Instead of deleting it, why don't we highlight the seller, addicted-to-cgc, as someone we want to steer clear of due to deceptive advertising? And then send send him a link to this thread. Done!

So in the $4 - $5 range. Not bad. Thanks.

I was more thinking the style of the wheel, which just looks "new" to me. But the center cap does as well.

Ron - Are there things we should think about in the design that would make it more or less expensive to make? And is there a way to guestimate the cost?

I'm not pushing back, just seeking to learn - how can you tell? What's the tip off? The wheels?