Gary Lewis

According to Rock Auto: 1990: Takes either a APDI/PRO 7013605 or GPD 3605C, which use #8 o-rings for both inlet and outlet 1996: Takes: OSC 4531, APDI/PRO 7014531, CSF 10891, GPD 4531C, or UAC CN4531PFC Parallel Flow, which use #8 o-rings on the inlet and #6 on the outlet. So the '96 condenser won't work with the hoses I have.

I can move it to Resources. But I think it deserves to be in Documentation as well. I'll work on it tomorrow. Thanks for doing that.

David - You are now on the map. Sorry it took so long.

Well done, Shaun! Where do you think it should go? I can think of a couple of possibilities, both of which start with Documentation/: Body/Hood Latch: Right now there's just the FSM section on R&R'ing the hood latch. But I could add tabs and have one for the FSM section and one for repairing the locking hood latch. Underhood: We don't have a hood latch section there, but could have. I think Body/Hood Latch. You?

Yes, if I understand correctly, that seems reasonable. Saying it another way, you'll cut the 1" square tubing and put the open side against the 4x4, welding it many times along its length. So the top will spread the load and the sides of it are plenty strong enough to carry the load. And the welds ensure it won't move.

Progress is good!

Bummer! I thought that was going to be the answer for you. As for the handles, if you can make a deal easily then great. But if not, don't worry. And thanks either way.

I'd say let's wait to see what others say, but I'm pretty much with you already. But I forgot to ask if Huck's condenser is what Bill call's "multi-pass". Here it is on the right, with Big Blue's on the left. It looks to me like BB's makes one pass down the condenser through those itty bitty tubes, where Huck's makes two passes through much larger tubes. Larger tubes have a larger surface area, so better cooling. Two passes mean - better cooling.

That looks PERFECT! Hopefully you'll take a shot tonight in the dark, but I can already see what looks like very even lighting. And, with that little draw it won't hurt much if you leave it on. But, there will be strange glow under the truck, so it'll be rather obvious.

Ok, did a bit of updating and adding today. My personal goal is to look everything I need up on the website. And today I needed info on how to remove the A/C clutch on Big Blue, so I scanned in that section of the FSM. That went so easily that I scanned in four more sections and now we have all of the HVAC sections on the site. They are at Documentation/HVAC. But I changed the previous HVAC page out for one that is non-clickable so that Jim can get there with his Android. Here's what I added on the 1985 FSM Instructions tab: A/C General Service: 34 pages A/C-Heater System: 42 pages Heater General Service: 5 pages Standard & Hi-Output Heater: 19 pages Comfort Vent System: 25 pages For a total of 125 pages.

Ok guys, a bit of study on the Rock Auto site shows that they say there were FS6 compressors with multi-groove pulleys in 1985. But a bit more study shows that none of those pulleys are used on FS10 compressors. Given that I looked at the clutches with an eye to removing them to see if they would swap. And I quickly discovered an error in the '85 FSM. As I'll explain in the Merry Christmas thread, I put the FSM sections for the HVAC systems on the web site, and then looked at the way they say to remove the clutch. And that is way wrong for the clutch that's on BB's compressor. The TSM says that you lock the clutch, remove the nut, and then insert a 5/8-11 bolt. Well, the threads are more like M24x20. In other words, a 1" bolt is about the right size, but the thread pitch is M20. And I don't have anything nearly that big. Then I looked at the clutch on Huck's FS10 and how to remove it isn't intuitively obvious to the casual observer. Given that, I'm strongly leaning to going with an FS10. But I think I'll call around to see if there is anyone locally that can test Huck's compressor. Perhaps it is ok. Anyway, here's what the two clutches look like, with Big Blue's on the left with the nut removed, and Huck's on the right:

First, I'm glad you started this thread. And, I see what you were talking about with rust. On the 3/4" step, can you get a 3/4 x 3" tube to put there. (I picked 3" as the guestimated width of the sill.) That would spread the load out as much as possible, and I like that approach. Or, can you get a 3" x 5" tube? That way you won't have to add the 3/4" tube. Something like this one?

It's a key-on 12v power source that supplies power to the gauges and the OP warning light. All new wiring, not factory stuff. The actual path of this circuit is: Battery + to fuse to relay (controlled by key-on source from factory wiring harness, I think R/LB if I recall correctly) to Alt Warn light (and other gauges/lights, all in parallel) and then back to the voltage regulator LG/R wire. I think that approach will work with an incandescent light. But maybe not with an LED. Hopefully you can find a bulb with which to test.

Andre - Welcome! Glad you joined. We have a members map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and would be happy to add you - with your permission. Amsterdam! Been there several times. Beautiful city. Love the history, friendliness, and museums. We got out to see the tulips as well as the cheese markets. And, we were there on the Queen's Birthday, which we won't do again. Nice looking truck! But I understand the problem of getting parts over there. We have members in the UK, Germany, Poland, the Czech Republic, Australia, and New Zealand and they all struggle to get parts. It is much easier here in North America. Speaking of the UK, we lived there for a while and I saw a number of US vehicles on the roads there, so understand at least one aspect of why they aren't so popular there - size. And then there's the cost of petrol over there, and these vehicles are anything BUT fuel efficient. Anyway, WELCOME!

What about a stint? Push a piece of tubing in that will open up the other tubing?

Bill - Please don't miss the question about the ability to put the serpentine pulley/clutch from the FS10 on an FS6. Do you know? If so, I could make a bracket to put the '85 system back on. As for the vacuum reservoir, that's cool! I could use the ball that's on there for HVAC and the reservoir on the housing for speed control, or vice versa. But on the condensor, perhaps Huck's is "multi-pass"? It has two sets of larger tubes instead of the one set of smaller tubes the '85 system has. But I didn't measure height. Will do so in a bit.

Pete - The sending units go in as shown below, although I can get an actual picture later today if you need it. 9002 = fuel tank 9276 = gasket 9A307 = lock ring 9H307 = sending unit/pump The lock ring is tightened with a brass drift so it doesn't give off sparks.

Jim - Going back I see Pete said "My wire comes from dashboard power, goes through the light, and terminates at the LG/R wire entering the voltage regulator." So his "light" shouldn't be truly grounded. But perhaps the "dashboard power" isn't on at this point and we are trying to power things in the dash? Pete - What is your "dashboard power"?

MPG may not be that much worse than your pedal-to-the-metal approach on Li'l Red. But you won't be going anywhere very fast. So, why did they sell it? What will it cost to register it? Maybe it is your answer to a 2nd vehicle while Li'l Red is down. Then flip it?

That does look like a lot of work, but the lift truck must have saved you a bunch of pain. My father and brother have removed and reinstalled Onans several times, and it isn't easy w/o the fork lift. On the fuel sending unit/pump, I think it is possible that they could have change out the pump. But not probable. And even if they did, it works other than for the generator - right? So I think your idea of one of the white hoses being kinked is likely. If you can blow through it, with difficulty, but not suck through it then it sounds like it is kinked and with pressure you are un-kinking it.

Another issue with an LED is that it doesn't take much voltage difference to illuminate them. But it takes a lot more voltage differential on an incandescent bulb to get it hot enough to have a visible glow. So put an incandescent in and see what happens.

Wow! That's a LOT of truck! So what is the plan? What year is it? Does the 370 have the same bolt patterns as the 460? Can you run it in your truck, at least for a while?

You found that in the middle of the night? Where? On a truck still in service? You are teasing me!

That's a whole lot of work! Well done!