Gary Lewis

Bill - Did you take a look at your Saginaw bracket? Just checking to see if I need to make adapters for you. But, my success ratio isn't the world's best. The tapping is very tight/hard, even with lube, and I've had several twist off. However, I may have just found out why. My Craftsman tap drill chart says that M8x1.25 should have a 17/64" drill. But this chart says it should be an I bit. The 17/64" is .266" while the I bit is .272". That may make a big difference. Right now I have one adapter still stuck in the die since the blue thread lock didn't pull it out. And another stuck on an 8mm bolt. And a third stuck on the 8mm tap. So I'm off to get a haircut, after 3 months, and then I'm going to pick up more thread lock. I'll get both blue and orange if they have it.

Those look to be the 1980 - 84 brackets, and won't fit the 85/86 trucks. Someone on here was looking for one of those recently.

John - Glad we've helped. And in this case since you said you "pump on it now is the OEM unit that came on it and I'd like one of equal quality" then I think you are probably looking for a Motorcraft pump. Having said that, I don't see one on Rock Auto's site, although you might find it elsewhere. Speaking of that site this link should take you to it. There you'll see several categories: Standard Replacement; Economy; High Performance/Racing; and Heavy Duty. In the High Perf category you'll see the Gates pump. In the latter you'll see Airtex pump. I wonder if that might be a good option? Warranty seems to be "limited lifetime". I don't have any experience with either of those pumps, but the writeups sound good.

Should the 2nd part read "Now here's the 1981 listing. From what I read in the transmission application charts the NP435 wasn't introduced until 1983, so the 4/M/T was the T-18. And it used C80Z-B with certain gearing." I know looking over the number you can go Now what concerns me is in the top chart that shows both the T-18 & NP435 and the white gear (7 tooth?) has 2 different part numbers between them. I would think if they interchanged they would have the same part numbers no? I did pull the speedo cable out to remove the driven gear and looked at the NP435 drive gear, it is white and it feels like the gear teeth are worn down. Could be why the speedo was jumping? So it will need to be replaced when I get a longer cable and that is when I will try the swap of the drive gears. Thanks for all the help on this. Dave ---- No, the second part should have read something like "Since both the T-18 and NP435 were used in 1981, as shown by the chart below, then for Ford to simply say 4/M/T must mean both transmissions take the same gear." Now, all I know is what I read in the MPC, so that may be wrong. But that appears to be correct. And I was wrong about when the T-18 was introduced. As for the speedo jumping, it could be a bad drive gear. But if it didn't do it before I'd bet it is something else. I'd make sure the cable is long enough and well lubricated before I replaced the drive gear.

That listing is way too general as that reservoir is not correct for 1985 or '86 trucks, nor for any year diesel. The diesels take a very different reservoir and in '85 the gas engines changed to a reservoir with a connection in the bottom instead of a hose draped in via a slot at the top. The difference is significant as the 1980 - 84 gas reservoirs take a different bracket than the 85/86 reservoirs. And the one in the listing doesn't appear to come with the bracket. So if someone wants the older-style reservoir to put in a later truck they'll have to modify the bracket.

Scott - Please take a look at the page now and see if you agree. The name has changed a bit: Documention/Driveline/Speedometer Gears, Cables, & Sensors. And, note that I added "85" as the ending date for the early sensor as the MPC said "1980/" and clearly it wasn't used past 1986. Hopefully this clarifies what was a bit of a murky area for me. But if not, let's get it clear.

Ok, good to know and I'll add some verbiage to that page to help others understand. However, I think you have the wrong part number. Looks like 1986 through 4/89 they used E3AZ 9E731-A. But apparently as of 4/89 they changed to E9TZ 9E731-A. And, it looks like they are interchangeable as the cable didn't change at the same time. So I'll add a new tab for the sensor and include this table:

My question has to do with speed control. It appears that there is one "upper" cable of 24 3/8" for 1980 - 85, and that there are several "lower" cables of varying lengths depending on the application that go with it. But in '86 they changed to a one-piece design. So, what does the one-piece design look like? Does it have the transducer permanently installed in it? I pulled Huck, the 1990 truck, apart and thought that it still had a two-piece design. I'm confused.

Ok, those tables are on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Speedometer Gears & Cables. (And yes, I did a 301 redirect from http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/speedometer-gears.html to http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/speedometer-gears--cables.html.)

And on the speedo cable length, here's what the MPC says. And I don't have this in the documentation so will put it on the Documentation/Driveline/Speedo Gears page. But, I haven't gotten my mind around what these charts are telling me, so would appreciate it if someone would enlighten me. However, there is also the cables for trucks with speed control, which are here:

Dave - On the drive gears, I think they do interchange. Here's a snippet of the 1985 MPC listing of drive gears. Two things to point out. First, that they called out which tranny got what gear. Second, that the T-18 & 19 with 3.07 gears got C80Z-B. Now here's the 1981 listing. From what I read in the transmission application charts the T-18 wasn't introduced until 1983, so the 4/M/T was the NP435. And it used C80Z-B with certain gearing.

Really nice truck. Those prices are going up, despite the economy.

In reverse order, I've been around a carb that squealed and I never did figure out why. Sorry. On getting no O2 codes on KOER, that is an improvement, for sure. But I don't think the ECU can tell if there's a blown thermactor pipe. So I can't account for that code. As for the fault 15, are you saying the KAM wasn't getting power and you now have it fixed? I got lost there. Overall, I'd drive it a bit and test again.

Now that I have one coming the homemade one will last for ever Dave ----

It is gone now Dave ---- Well done, Dave! No more home-made pivot?

Cool! Glad you got it going, Dave! As for the whine, I'll bet it gets quieter as it breaks in. But, were it I, I'd put lots of damping material on the floor and the tranny cover.

You don't think those little strips could be inserted through the dome light hole, or even the cargo light hole if so equipped, and then pushed further in with a thin flexible object? Maybe, but that one is slotted like it is to go over an edge, and I can't see that happening in the dark of the roof.

Already sold. E2TA 1210-AB is not a part number. Perhaps it is part number E2TZ 1210-A.

David - I'm confused as to what that is. So I captured my thoughts on a new page: Documentation/Interior/Insulation. See what you think, please.

Ron - One of the guys on here, Ron/reamer, makes a dash patch. You can see one of them here. As for Okiehoma, we like it. But then we grew up essentially here, and most people like where they were raised. So it is surprising that you don't. Anyway, your dash repair looks good.

You might find that an AOD isn't any more expensive than changing out the front and rear gears. That can get very pricey.

Ok, Shaun & Scott, please go look at the page: Documentation/Body/Hood Latch. See if I did it correctly and if the pictures seem proper. And by that I mean all the same size and not "in your face". I think we are good but want to put the finishing touches on it so we can say it is done and dusted.

Yes, the later transmissions are better, but they require a controller. The AOD doesn't. And, while a stock AOD is said to be less than robust, I've read that they can be built to be very stout. This article from Hot Rod says they can be built to handle 1200 HP. Monster Transmission sells these: Quick Ship: $2199, but it doesn't say how much HP it'll handle HD: $1599 for a 4wd version capable of handling 450 HP. Or $1799 for a package to replace a C6. Super Duty: $1999 for a 4wd version and handling up to 600 HP

That works, thanks. So if you cut them you have to solder to the leads, but they come with 1 meter of wire? I wonder if one of those under the rear gunnel and one under the front would be enough. Would be less expensive than the roll because you don't have to buy the connectors. Or, you could buy three packs and use one under the hood and two in the bed and probably still be less expensive than the strip with connectors. Yours touts the 3M adhesive, and as you learned it works WELL. I wonder how well that on the roll works. The instructions for it says: The "for difficult installations" bit doesn't give me a warm fuzzy.

Yes! If you aren't towing an AOD might be an option. And with 4.56 gears you'll be turning 2152 RPM at 65 MPH. I've often thought that an AOD/4.11 or 4.56 combo would be a good one - except for towing.