Gary Lewis

Sorry for the late post/poll, but we need to be voting for the July Truck Of The Month. Here are the entries: Angelo's father's red w/a bull bar: David/1986F150Six's sunburst pic: Brian/Dee's Bullnose: Steve/Old55pete's 86 Bronco: Myrl/myrl883's Parts Truck: Jonathan's 1981:

That's probably a good suggestion. However, that won't work for 'stats for an M-Block as they quit making them. But Tim Meyer acquired the rights and is now having them made - in Australia if I remember correctly. Fearing it is part of the Gates family I Googled Robertshaw and found this: "USA: Controls company Robertshaw Holdings has been acquired by a subsidiary of New-York-based private equity company One Rock Capital Partners."

That's probably a good suggestion. However, that won't work for 'stats for an M-Block as they quit making them. But Tim Meyer acquired the rights and is now having them made - in Australia if I remember correctly.

Don't know. My go-to guy just failed me and I find that he is part of a larger family that I thought was the gold standard. So now I'm lost. Suggestions are welcome.

Yes, welcome! And, this is an excellent place for both advice as well as documentation. So have at it, post up your questions and progress. However, in the main section or in Projects is probably the better place. Charlotte is a nice city. I've spent some time there on business. Anyway, I've added you to our map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu). Hope that's ok.

Yes, I think the foil would have been great on the firewall. Pity I didn't think of it at the right time.

Yes, I guess it could be worse. But the mechanic said he's had it happen before with Stant parts. I think I'm off Stant. And wondering about Gates.

Don't miss that we have the factory shop manual section on that here: Documentation/Body?FRONT DOOR WINDOW GLASS & MECHANISMS.

Yes, I think it will be obvious when you get there.

Yep. David/1986F150Six made his own. He pulled the air cleaner and found something that would go down over the carb to seal it. Got a Swisher Sweet and blew smoke into one of the vacuum lines - maybe the PCV or brake booster with the place where it came off of plugged. It think he said it took two puffs for it to start coming out where a vacuum line was cracked.

I'm hoping the rear slider on Big Blue as well as the foot well vents will let me run with the A/C off in cooler temps. But the wind noise with the side windows open is brutal and makes long trips exhausting, hence the desire for the A/C to work well. And if it works well I can turn the fan speed down. As for the reflective stuff, it needs some space to be effective. Some of the literature says at least 2", but that varies by what you read. For the exhaust, the best use of reflective materials would be underneath, but it would get dirty and then not be as effective. But some reflective material there and then good insulation inside would be a good package.

That looks amazing! But in the last shot I would have said the front of the 4x4 was too far forward rather than the rear being too far back. On the flair, can you reposition it? I think it needs to end at the 4x4 rather than hang down.

Frank - I agree that home grown tastes by far the best. Even frozen. I think you have a good plan.

It is an up grade to what he had but the two stage compressor is the way to go. What I don't get is the 3 piston but single stage? They must use the 3 pistons to get the 14 SCFM @ 90 PSI So what tool do you have that uses the most SCFM @ what PSI? This is what you base what compressor you need so it will not be running 100% of the time and still lose PSI. Do you plan to plumb the shop or just run a hose off the compressor? Have you thought of a air drier / cooler? It is easy to make one. I can put you on to a plumbing kit & DIY drier. Both will make your compressor more enjoyable. Dave ---- I disagree on the single vs two-stage compressor. I don't need anything above 90 psi. All of my tools are rated at that. When I was shopping I called tech support at Eagle Compressor they explained that a single-stage compressor puts out more CFM than a two-stage if they both have the same motor. So they strongly encouraged me to go single. The goal is to run less than 50% of the time so the compressor and the air can cool and the moisture can be removed.

Yes, and came to the conclusion that it would be too difficult. However, had I done it when the engine was out it wouldn't have been nearly as difficult. I wound up removing the HVAC plenum, and the steering column and brake booster were out, so effectively all that was left was the wiper motor and the clutch master.

I'm pleasantly surprised that the final on the CB didn't give up the ghost. Apparently the protection circuit works.

According to this, Gates bought Stant in 1997: https://ww2.gates.com/Dutch/brochure.cfm?brochure=11102&location_id=17265#:~:text=Gates%20acquired%20%22Uniroyal%20Power%20Transmission,the%20field%20of%20design%2C%20development. I wasn't aware of that, but I guess it explains the Stant cap in a Gates box. As for it all being junk, I'm believing you. It really is frustrating.

That's quite a garden! What do you do with all of the produce? I would think there's a lot of it on a daily basis.

Yes, it is quite different. But it appears to be very rigid, and with new foam ought to seal up tightly. Still haven't figured out how to put a filter in there. Would sure be nice if there was a way to do that, and even better if the filter was accessible in order to change it out.

I think you'll be really happy with that compressor. I looked at it before I bought the one I have. It sure looked good, and going with a single-stage unit is the right way to go.

I forgot to take a pic today of the screw-on vacuum motor, but it is for sure one of those. As for the recirculate door, I discovered how to get it out. The crank has a finger with a clip on the end of it, and that clip snaps into place in a window in the shaft, as shown below. Reach in with a long screwdriver, push the tip of the finger to release it, and pull the shaft out. Then I pealed the old foam off of the door: And with a bit of layout work and cutting, plus spray adhesive, I had this: Here are a couple of shots of how it fits, which is nicely: And then I moved on to insulating the HVAC plenum. Got maybe half way done.

Some of y'all know of the issues we've been having with the Subaru's cooling system, but it may well be solved. So I wanted you to know what it appears to have been and what has been found. First, the symptoms were that if you drove it for a long distance it would push coolant out into the expansion tank and not pull it back. After a few cycles of that the expansion tank would overflow and coolant would be lost. And the radiator would be low. To me that was a classic radiator cap problem, so I replaced the cap with a brand new Stant. But it did it again on a 3 hour drive, and again on the return. So I took it to a professional, told him what the problem was and what I'd done. Here's what he did: Pressure test: Held 15 psi for 7 hours Idling: He idled it for 6 hours with the A/C on - no problem and it didn't exceed 198 degrees Products of combustion: Thinking it might be a head gasket, again, he tested the coolant and there were no products of combustion in it Hoses, etc: He checked every connection known to man and there were no leaks. Finally, at his wit's end, he checked the brand new radiator cap closely. And it is bad! In the pic on the left you can see that the bottom gasket is off to the side. And in the picture on the right there's a piece of brass showing under that gasket. So this thing won't hold pressure. So, he had the parts store get him a new Stant cap, and it came in a Gates box. So he had them get in three more - all Stants and all in Gates boxes. Did Gates buy Stant, or vice versa? So I think the moral of the story is don't trust new parts. I say "think" because we don't know for sure that it is fixed. But, as said, I felt all along that the symptoms are perfect for a bad radiator cap. And looking at that cap, it is bad - in several ways.

Yes! The door card will break! Do NOT use staples. Been there, done that, broke the door card/panel. Instead use pop rivets.

Now on the map!

Moved. And soon to be on the map.....