Gary Lewis

I think with the previous system I needed the Cool Shirt. But with the new system I may need the Antarctic clothing if Bill is right. Bill - What orifice are you using? Ok, the plenum's insulating is done. Here are a few shots of it. But, the blower motor and resistor pack are on in for test fitting as I need to put gaskets on them. And, speaking of gaskets, I emailed James of Detroit Muscle Technologies to tell him what I needed, including the blower motor gasket. He responded this morning saying he'd look for the Bricknose motor gasket and get me a Paypal invoice up. But I've not seen anything yet today so will call him tomorrow if I've not heard back. If he doesn't have it I think I'll make one using the gasket material I used on the blend door. So, here's the front view: Passenger's side: Firewall side: And last, the top as you've already seen the cover:

Our trucks. That for a 1981 or '82 and it is in Nutmeg.

Yes, 50' of copper tubing will "help". But it isn't going to remove all of the moisture. As for desiccant being cheap, it isn't expensive by itself. But if you don't get the moisture out quickly you won't believe the corrosion that will happen. I had to replace several components, including the housing itself, in my drier. And the instructions on my drier said to put the desiccant in an oven at 300 degrees for at least two hours. No mention of a microwave. So, to me a desiccant drier is for one-off use. Like on my plasma cutter that I use very infrequently. But for a shop air system that I used frequently I don't like them.

That's exactly what I found. I think your build will be essentially the same as mine. Now about your documentation. I like it. But there have been others that have done similar ones, myself included. So, when we get this done and dusted I need to update the Hydroboost Upgrade tab here: Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then the Master Cyl's & Boosters tab. I'm thinking we need to distill our learnings into some words on that tab, and then provide links to our builds. Thoughts?

That would have been a very good buy. I love mine. Just sits there and works.

Looks like we have the same one. Here's mine. You'll see we have the same ID #'s: E8TA 2B560-AA. But the #'s after that are different, although I don't know what they represent. Date codes?

I guess this is the type of issue I was remembering that had me thinking I needed to swap the valve on the frame. I am almost certain that your later lines from the parts truck will fit the master and go into your proportioning valve. I have an '85 F250HD proportioning valve, '90 F250HD lines, and '95 F450 master and hydroboost unit, and it all bolted together perfectly. But, don't forget to pull the switch on the front/bottom of the master and plug the hole.

I will be surprised if the F250 master will fit the hydroboost. My '90 F250 master wouldn't. The one that fit looks exactly like yours - 1 5/16". Where did you find the ID # on the hydroboost unit? Mine is installed and I didn't see it with a quick look. But if I knew where to look I might confirm what its # is.

Thanks, guys. I didn't know.

Bill - Can the speed density accommodate the better heads?

Yes, I said it incorrectly. The booster bolts to the cab and the master bolts to the booster. But in my case the '95 hydroboost unit wouldn't take the '90 master I had. The bolt spacing was wrong. But the '95 F450's master fit. And then the '90 F250 lines went perfectly from that to the '85 proportioning valve. As for the proportioning valve, this snippet from our page (Documentation/Driveline/Brakes) says there were several different ones, but your Bronco should have the same one as Big Blue. So the later lines should fit. BUT, I can't tell you that it works as I don't have BB on the road yet.

The wires are inside the distributor and are part of the pickup, so if it is new it is unlikely that I'm right. But the way to test that is to pull and plug the vacuum line to the distributor. If that's not the problem then I think you may have a very lean off-idle condition. Are you sure the accelerator pump is working? Have you looked down the throat of the carb, with the engine off, and opened the throttle? You should see two streams of gas squirt in. Do you?

LOL! I think it will be loud, and after a few minutes of driving I'm sure you'll agree with me. Anyway, it is looking good. I'm amazed that those tires clear - they look huge. Progress!

I'm pretty sure there's essentially nothing you can do that won't cause problems if you are retaining the EFI system. And, it is a "system", with everything tied together and the computer in control and monitoring things. The ECU recognizes when things like the TAB and TAD relays aren't there and at least throws codes if not goes into limp-home mode. And you can read here what Jim explained to Pizzadude about the AIR system. I recommend that you keep the system stock.

It deserves some TLC. Glad you got the belt issue sorted.

Well, I may know what the problem is - the insulation is off the pickup inside the distributor. Eli/Smoken_Choken came to the GTG a few years ago and said if you connect the vacuum advance on his truck the engine will die. We did and it did. Paul/Rogue_Wulf said "The pickup wires in the dizzy are shorting." Sure enough, the insulation was off them and when you connected the vacuum advance it pulled the plate and the wires shorted. I see that you have the vacuum advance line connected to the timed port. (Which is where I like it.) That means that at idle there's no vacuum and the advance, but just off idle there is. If your wires are bad then that would explain it.

Are they "You have to pull the master cylinder, clutch line, and reservoir out as an assembly and stretch them out to bench bleed them" difficult? Because that's how my Ranger is and I was thinking these trucks were easier since the master cylinder isn't mounted at a moronic angle like on the Ranger. I guess I'll have to address the clutch slave issue in the not too distant future. Good tips for bleeding it, guys. Thanks. As for the plenum being "cool", I hope so. Sure will have been a lot of work if it doesn't do better than the previous system. It was marginal, and on a hot day the fan had to be run on High most of the time. However, there was no headliner in the truck and several leaks through the firewall that didn't help. So, as I go back together with the interior I'll be adding insulation in the floor as well as a headliner - probably the Highliner - with sound deadening and insulation above it. Hopefully the FS10 compressor, larger condensor, insulated plenum, sealed recirculation door, and insulation in the floor and headliner will help.

Glad you found what you were looking for. Smog components are rarely available as most people throw them away.

Check the stud spacing on your F250 master vs the holes in your truck. In my case a 1990 F250 master wouldn't fit, but a 1995 F450 master did fit, perfectly. As for the proportioning valve, I didn't have to change it out. But I did have to change out the lines down to it from the master. And that's where the 1990 F250's lines worked perfectly. The later masters have the front/rear swapped vs the Bullnose masters, and the lines from the 1990 F250 fit the master and fit the proportioning valve.

I'm running this Harbor Freight air drier. I fought with desiccant driers for a few years and discovered I'd already spent more than $400 on them and needed to spend more. Bought that thing and have had no problems. Love it.

OUCH! That has GOT to be painful! Hope they get them out easily.

I'm on a first name basis with the repair guy. As I am with DeWayne from Skiatook Auto Parts where I bought that part. But I do not want to hang out a shingle. I already have a number of people calling on me.

Yes, I obviously should have gotten one from Subaru. Still could as David found one for the same price I paid for the one from Stant: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Subaru-Radiator-Pressure-Cap-Forester-Impreza-Outback-Legacy-Baja/143040584700?epid=192031538&hash=item214de21bfc:g:pMsAAOSwqu9U2U35 Thanks, David!

Wow! You are really on a roll! Well done. As for the non-power brake pedal, I can get a part number that won't tell us anything about the height of the pin. The only way to find that out is to find someone who has one.

Several updates. First, I got this today from Jim. THANK YOU! Next, I'd emailed and called Detroit Muscle Technologies looking for the plenum/firewall gaskets but as of early afternoon hadn't heard from them. So when Scott offered to send me his I accepted. Then I got a call from the lady at Detroit Muscle Technologies. However she's going to have the guy call me as I need those two gaskets as well as the Bricknose motor gasket and since it doesn't show on the website she doesn't know if they have it. I've offered to send a tracing so they can produce it if they don't. Last, I got all of the insulating done on the plenum. And I got enough of the "trimming" with aluminum tape done in this area to install the recirc door and motor, as well as the vacuum hoses. As you can see, the motor screws on. And here's a shot of where the blower motor goes. As you can see, that area is insulated and trimmed as well. Hopefully I can finish up the trimming tomorrow, although this is REALLY tedious work.