Gary Lewis

Scott - You are having too much fun! But up at 4 AM doing it? So, you rebuilt it but don't know if you are going to use it? How does your truck stop w/o it? You'll remember that I removed the one on Big Blue, so I'm curious.

Excellent! I look forward to meeting you. What do you do? Where will you work?

Well done! Glad it worked out and you probably out driving the wheels off of it. Looking forward to the report.

Yes and no. Jein in German. The E0 pedal has a smaller tube than the E4 pedal. So you can't put an E0 pedal where an E4 pedal is as the later shaft won't go through the early pedal. But you could put an E4 pedal where an E0 pedal is with some shimming via bushings. Here are some dimensions: I/D O/D Width Part Number Marked (ID #) Pedal Shaft Tube E0TZ 2455-A E0TA 2455-FC .692" .613" 4.440" E4TZ 2455-B E4TA 2455-DA .850 .773" 4.444"

Jim - I think the problem is that he needs to weld the ends in while the tube is out of the vehicle so he can get to all sides to weld. Then he'll weld the tube into the vehicle. So he can't put the oil in prior to welding in the tube, and can't roll it round afterwards. That's why I think he needs to seal it and put some preservative inside.

I hadn't thought about the trail damage, and didn't realize the ends will be that visible, so I understand the desire to close them. But a drain hole will only get plugged. I will never forget the morning in Flagstaff when I realized my boat trailer's three cross members were rusted through from the inside. It was 6 am on a Sunday morning and I was sitting on a picnic table drinking a cup of coffee and looked over at the trailer and spotted cracks in the center of all three cross members. We were headed home that day and it was pretty obvious that they would drop the 5,000 lb boat on the axles while on the interstate. They had rusted through from the inside due to the weep holes having gotten plugged. And all three appeared to be equally bad, which suggests that the odds of that happening are 100%. So I wouldn't go that way and would seal them up with the exception of the fender bolt hole and use it to spray in a preservative. Then seal it with thread locker on the bolt. But I'm not sure WD40 is the right thing to squirt in there. I don't know what is, but I think WD40 is volatile enough that it will eventually dry out. Even WD-40® Specialist® Long-Term Corrosion Inhibitor says it only "Protects metal from rust and corrosion for up to 2 years". What about something like EASTWOOD INTERNAL FRAME COATING?

I agree that the bar will look better curved. As for closing off the tube, be careful as then there's no way for water to get out. So if the bolt holding the fender leaks you'll have moisture in there that will cause problems. And, you don't want the thing sealed while you are welding to it, so you'll want to leave that bolt hole open until the very end.

You can call Bill whatever you want, but no "Mister" for me, please. My usual response to that is "My father isn't here." But I just want to be one of the gang. Yes, as Bill said we are into upgrading the fuel system on our trucks. He's already there and I'm in the process of getting it going on a carb and then switching to EFI. So I, too, am interested in how it works for you. Please keep us up to speed.

Glad you caught that. I don't think you'll have to remove the tank, but it might help to lower it using the nuts on the all-threads that hold it in.

I fully understand making progress to make progress. And, as Jim is wont to say, progress is good - even if it is just progress to make progress. And I think I understand your plans. They make sense. But on the fender, I wouldn't weld it to anything. I prefer bending it and bolting it. And on the "extra threads" idea, is that close enough to the end of the tube that you could slip a nut in and tack it in place? I'd drill and tap the tube, run a bolt in that, put the nut on and run it down snug, and weld it. And I like your idea on the 1" tubing on the side. Kind of a nerf bar. But what about cutting a wedge out of it, bending it in, and welding it up? Or do you like the curved approach better?

Jim - Forgot to tell y'all about the Subie. No, the radiator cap didn't fix it. She drove it to BA and back and the next morn the coolant level in the expansion tank and the radiator was exactly where it had been. But then she took it to Wichita, which is a 3 hour drive, and when she checked the coolant in the expansion tank and it was 2" higher. So I had her pull the cap and the radiator was down about a pint. She filled it up and drove it down here and we took it back to the guy that recently worked on it. He thinks it may be a water pump, but we shall see. Shaun - You are right! I had that cover off as I'm going to put those vents on, and found the nut and got it off. Helped a bunch. Bill - I'd like to add some insulation to the box while it is out. I wonder what would be best for that?

Danny - I started looking for part numbers in the Master Parts Catalog and finally realized that it isn't simple. There are lots of variables. However, what I've done is to put the whole section on refrigerant lines from the MPC on the website here: Documentation/HVAC/HVAC Systems and then the Refrigerant Lines PN tab. If you look through that document, which you can print and take to your shop, you'll see several things. First, there are part numbers for the lines, but I kind of doubt you can find the lines anymore. But, there are supposedly lengths shown for each line as well as the fittings needed. However, I call your attention to the bottom of Page 8 where it says that 1980 - 82 trucks built in the Twin Cities or Norfolk plants take a different hose than trucks built in other plants. That tells me those two plants were using different components than all the other plants. So I wonder if your truck is one of those, which might explain why the shop is having a hard time finding the right parts. I hope that helps.

I forgot to tell y'all, the g'twins left for a couple of weeks. So I'm back at it. But, no they didn't get to swing on that with the aluminum channel strapped to it. But they had a blast with the bosun's chair running themselves, their mother, father, and grandparents as high as it would go. Blower relay? Kinda like mine? As for the hoist, you'll love it. And I hope your engine stand likes it as well.

Thanks, Bill. I'll check that out.

Nice truck! As I frequently say, you couldn't create it for twice that.

Looks like you have it figured out.

Jacob - You might want to follow my thread, at least right now, as I'm working on installing the Bricknose HVAC plenum under the hood. Here's a link to today's post: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-s-Transformation-tp28014p65091.html

Dist. gets timing and the air filter gets manifold. As for the gauge it should be smooth thru out the full swing of the float / arm. Think of it as a light dimmer, it should dim smoothly not dim a little and then just to almost off. Dave ---- Rob - Looking good! As for your questions, I agree with Dave all the way.

Ok, then I'm at a loss. I still think you have a vacuum leak. But I think we need to get someone else to jump in to help. I'm out of suggestions.

Bill - Sorry. I only needed two, so decided it would be cheaper to do that than split 10. But, I have a question for you re insulating the HVAC plenum. Did you say yours is insulated? From the factory? Would it be advantageous to put some on this one? Rob - When you are working alone you get creative. Ok, got a bit done this afternoon after striking out this morning. Specifically, I put the radiator and condenser in place, but need to put the nuts in the radiator support to secure them. And I pulled the underhood HVAC plenum. You'se guys that said "Yes, use the Bricknose plenum" were setting me up, I can tell. Removing those things is less fun than installing headers! There's one nut that you'd better use a sensitive 1/4" drive ratchet 'cause there's only room to move the handle about two clicks each time. And there's another that requires moving the fender liner out of the way to even find it, and good luck seeing it. But, I got it out and have compared it to the Bricknose unit and the gasket will interchange, so apparently the Bricknose will fit a Bullnose. But, there will have to be some changes. In the pics below, the Bricknose is on the left and the Bullnose on the right, and you can see a few differences. First, the Bricknose has the wires coming out of the plenum where the Bullnose has the vacuum hoses. Unfortunately it looks like the hole for the wiring is larger than that on the Bullnose plenum, so I'll have to come up with a way to bush the hole down. Another difference is the connection for the resistor pack. I'll show pics of the two resistor packs in a bit, but the connectors are quite different so I'll have to splice that connector in. Boy, let me tell you that connector won't fall off! I think they use them on the space shuttle. The third difference is the opening for the blower motor. Note the different shapes of the openings.

Not quite, but thanks.

Ok, I gave up and ordered two of these: Metric M10 M10X1.5 Male to M8 M8X1.25 Female Reducer Headless Adapter Stainless Steel. You may ask why when I'd already sort of successfully made two of them. Well today wasn't quite as successful. The thread locker didn't, the larger drill bit didn't ease the tapping tightness enough and I still twisted one off, and I broke the tap. Other than that, the play was good. So I ordered those and moved on. But the old A/C system was in my way, so necessity is the mother of invention. No bulls were hurt filming these pictures.

I'm sorry, I got lost in your description. But, I believe the one-wire should install just like a 3G as shown on the diagram below, which is from the Ammeter & Voltmeter tab on the page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Alternator Conversion. However, that diagram doesn't show the needed fuse or fuse link which you can see in the 2nd diagram. The difference between the 3G and a "1 wire" is that the 3G has the Y/W sense wire and the LG/R bootstrap wire which the 1 wire doesn't - at least not externally. You can see those wires in the diagram on the Wiring It tab on that page:

If your oil pressure gauge works it isn't the ICVR as it feeds all three gauges. However, if you are curious about that you can read about it here: Documentation/Electrical/ICVR. The page here tells how to test your gauges: Documentation/Electrical/Gauges and then the Troubleshooting tab. It sounds as if you have two separate problems since the gauges quit at different times.