Gary Lewis

Oh yes sir, lots of air, and I think three air chisels. I have a lot of them to do, so I'll try the chisels and see how that works. Thanks for the tip Gary. I'll admit, I was skeptical. But it worked out well. I think Steve said "Just pop the heads off." But he's BIG, although he said on Sunday that he's 50 lbs less big, so holding that bucking air chisel was probably easier for him than me. But once I figured out how to hold the chisel to have it only work on the rivet and not the frame it did work pretty well. I think I still had to drill the rivets a bit to release the tension so I could drive them out, but at that point there was a lot less drilling to be done. And when I was pulling all those rivets for the spring perches it made a big difference.

No air at the junkyard. Only option is drilling. If you can get them dead center of the hole, the heads will pop right off...and then you just hammer it out. I actually don't mind doing them terribly when they're easy to access. Doing them overhead under a rusty truck at the junkyard though is not much fun...lol. Sorry, I should have said this is a suggestion for this winter when you are working in the shop. You have air there, right?

Sorry, that was before even a sip of my java.

Yes, it is fresh - as is the smell of gasoline on my watch band. Jim has explained it well, but just to make sure you understand, Christian, the system has two lines from each tank to the valve, a supply and a return, and two on to the engine. And the hot fuel handling system has a tiny orifice that returns a bit of fuel at all times to keep it circulating and, therefore, cool. But, if I were in your shoes I'd seriously consider if I need two tanks. It is having two tanks that causes all of the problems. Ford went through several iterations of fuel systems on these trucks, and many of them failed. So, the first question is do you need to store your spare tire under the rear of the truck? If not, I'd suggest you buy either a 33 gallon Bronco standard tank or the 38 gallon upgrade tank for the Bronco. It'll fit in the rear where your existing tank is, but you can't get a spare tire under it. However, then you don't need a front tank and you can eliminate the valve, which is a known failure point and expensive to replace.

That really IS good work. And I know what you mean about the rivets. But FoxFord33 taught me that an air chisel is the way to go on the rivets. Chisel the head off and then drill the remaining part to release the tension. Lots less drilling that way.

There are cutaways on the page at Documentation/HVAC/HVAC Systems and then the 1981 FSM tab and then the A/C-Heater System tab. But there's another way to access the plenum besides pulling the resistors. Pull the blower motor. Or, maybe you've done that?

At least you've thought through it and settled on a plan logically. And I can't fault the plan. The terms "460" and "economy" don't belong in the same sentence. I'm hoping to maybe reach 14 MPG with mine at a steady 65 MPH, but if I do I'll be one of the few to have gotten there. But Rogue_Wulff says he gets close to 20 MPG with a 6BT in his '80 F150, and supposedly has power to spare.

I know some of you are wondering "what is in it for me" to enter the show. The Awards tab on our page at Truck Shows/2020 Truck show lists the vendors that I've contacted and what they are contributing - or not.

That's a LOT of truck for the money.

Happens to all of us. (And I have things like that happen all the time, but don't tell anyone. OK?) Glad you got it off.

Yessir I did, when I put in a new user post request last night. Just an honest mistake posting in here. Also I am located in Fairfield, CA. You are good to go then. And, you are on the map as well.

Yep, confirmed parts are good parts! And if I were ordering from RA I'd be concerned. But I ordered the filler neck from Amazon, so if it doesn't fit when they say it will they'll make it right.

This one actually has a port tapped in the back, but it would interfere with the throttle bracket I made. So I'll go with the one in the front. As for the fresh air intake, I ordered a 5/8" 90 degree barb and I'll cobble together a hose from the air cleaner to the nipple on the valve cover.

Jim - I ordered the ACDelco 12F1P Professional Fuel Tank Cap, which is $9.08 on Amazon. They have another ACDelco one for a bit less, but no expected delivery date. This one is to be here tomorrow. Bill - Yep, as we've discussed the issue with the '86 necks and later tanks is the change in where the fuel goes and the size of the inner hose. Big Blue had exactly the opposite setup, and it didn't work well at all.

We will forgive you. But, you read the guidelines?

Welcome! Glad you joined. But we ask people to do their first post in the New Members Start Here folder so they have a chance to see our guidelines, to which we hold people. So just assure me you've read them? What part of northern CA? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a city or a zip. I'd love to have a Bronco! They are cool. Can't wait for your build thread. As for Youtube, you can embed your videos on here if you'd like.

Bob - Here's a shot of the caps. The Bullnose caps have wings that go in slots, and the later caps screw in. Bill - As you know, BB is a mix of '85 and '95. But, I'm not sure I'll do Dad's truck that way. Jim - The schematic folds out big enough to read, so it won't hurt to have it in the PDB. But your idea of creating a sheet that has the fuses and relay uses is a good one. That could be glued in the lid and still have the schematic folded up in there. (And in the glove box, like it also is at present.) Now for what else I've done. I got the PCV hose set up, as shown below. The new PCV valve should be in tomorrow and I can install it, but at least the hose is ready. Then I turned to the fresh air for the PCV system. Here's a air cleaner base showing how the hose will go, but I'll need to get some 5/8" hose and a barbed 90 to make the connections. Last, I tried to fit the dual-snorkel air cleaner I made for Dad's truck - to no avail. I'll probably just put a snorkel on the one in the pic above to drive the truck for a bit. But depending on how long I'm going to run the carb I might decide to turn that base into another dual-snorkel. There are three problems: it is hitting the tube coming off the A/C compressor; it is laying on the oil filler cap; and it is hitting the insulator for the spark plug wires. So, if I do make a dual-snorkel I will probably have to reduce the "droop", take the hot air inlet off, and possibly bring it off "a bit earlier on the clock". Or, change the angle. However, if I could bend that tube up just a bit it would make things easier. Think I can do that?

Yes! Thanks, Shaun.

I just checked and yes, he's doing the leaf spring thing. Then he needs to read what VW and Shaun are dealing with. The 2wd frames don't have the brackets in the front that are required for the springs. You can see them in my thread called Sky's Offroad Design Super Duty RSK Install, and particularly this post.

Good one!

I think the PDB is bigger than the glove box. Actually, it is close. I printed it at 7.6 x 9" instead of 8 x 10", which I'd done originally, and that made it just small enough that when I trimmed and folded it I was easily able to get it in the PDB. But, the 8 x 10 version just fits on the right/big side of the glove box. Here's a shot of what the thing looks like after folding: And here's how it fits in the PDB. Note that the folded side is on the left, as that's where the catch is and that makes it shut evenly. But I'm guessing that after time the plastic will give a bit and it'll lay flatter.

All of the above is true. Inc your statement, Scott. On the vacation, we are going SOMEWHERE in late Sept/early Oct. But we aren't sure where yet. We just need to get away. Now, back to our regularly-scheduled programming. Just got a note from Herko Automotive via Amazon, and the new front FDM has shipped. That's amazing as the lady said yesterday that they, Herko, would contact me in a day or two. So this is great service. And speaking of Amazon, the new PCV valve and fuel tank cap are due in tomorrow. That will let me finalize the PCV plumbing as I got the needed 3/8" 90 degree hose barb today. And the cap will let me seal up the tank to some extent - I didn't know that later trucks used a different cap. And Scott's question about fusing reminded me - I don't have a schematic showing the new PDB wiring other than on the screen. So I printed one at 600 dpi and laminated it. I need to decide where and how to put that. I say that 'cause there's nothing in the PDB that tells what relay or fuse is what, and if I blow something it would sure be nice to know what is what. I'm trying to come up with a way to make it small enough to actually put in the PDB. But I need some suggestions. The PDB measures 4 1/2" x 6 1/2", so it needs to be no bigger than that. And the laminate sheet measures 9" x 11 1/2". At first blush it looks like folding that laminated sheet in quarters would work, but it is just a smidge too big. I think I'll print it a bit smaller, laminate that, trim the laminated sheet, and see if that fits. But, if you have suggestions I'd appreciate it. Here's what it looks like:

We had this "conversation" when you convinced me to put a 3a fuse in my PDB to run the voltmeter. So, why are you doubting yourself now? Seriously though, I see no reason not to reduce the size of the fuse as that will ensure the fuse blows quickly before any damage can be done should there be a fault. Presumably you'll be carrying spares?

Yes. See the box to the right on Page 30-1 that says: And in the menu you can see that I have several of the sections from the 1996 EVTM, but in case you need others just let me know.