Gary Lewis

You should see the gauges come alive in Accy. As shown below, power is fed to them in both Run and Accy. But, that doesn't explain having a reading other than below zero. The Instrument Voltage Regulator, aka Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator, provides a pulsing voltage to all three gauges that averages about 5.4 volts. And if it glitches, which is very common, all three gauges will react, and if that glitch is to give higher voltage then the gauges will read high. I like to replace the IVR with a real regulator, and one way of doing that is shown on the page at Documentation/Electrical/ICVR. In my experience that makes the stock gauges work very well.

If the IVR is the problem you will see the oil pressure and gas level do the same as the water temp since it feeds all three. If not, then I think you have a short to ground on the wire running back to the tank(s). (You don't have a signature so I don't know what year your truck is, what engine you have, etc.) But your normal temp reading looks about right. I have both the factory gauge as well as an aftermarket gauge, and the latter shows the temp running in the 204 to 208 range. At the same time the factory gauge is pointing directly to M.

My text attempt was on Monday the 21st, a week ago, and only 3 days from his last post. My calls were on Thursday the 24th. Don't remember when I emailed, but I know several others have as well. And I sent another text yesterday.

I, too, use Fluid Film on my mill and lathe. But hadn't heard of the black version. Might have to give that a try!

Looking good!

Looks great! Brutus is going to be styling!

John - Good idea about tracking it. I'll get it off in the morning.

I know this is 2020 and that 2019 has come and gone. But Janey and I are headed to CO in the not too distant future with friends, and hope to rent a Jeep for a day out of Ouray. And since 2 of the 4 of us want easy roads, I'm mapping them out as best I can. It looks to me like this route should work, but I'm asking for input: Colorado 550 from Ouray to Ridgeway Colorado 62 from Ridgeway to Last Dollar Road Last Dollar Road to Colorado 145 Colorado 145 to Telluride, then back to the Sunshine Camp Road Sunshine Camp Road to Ophir Pass Road Ophir Pass Road to Colorado 550 Colorado 550 into Silverton (yes, I know the last mile isn't 550) The blue and green road north out of Silverton to Corkscrew Gulch Corkscrew Gulch back to Co 550 I know that many times on that day we'll ask why we rented a Jeep. But there are some places on that loop that looks like it'll require a Jeep. And things I've read say the scenery will be spectacular. However, I'm open to suggestions.

Cool pic and nice trophies. Let us know when yours gets there.

Guys - I don't know. We are 9 days from his last post. Does that make it time for a well-being check? I'd sure hate to send them out and Jim not like it. But if you think I should I can call tomorrow and ask.

I'm pretty sure he lives alone. But I don't know if he has anyone locally that would check on him. How do we go about doing a well-being check?

You are right, I can't see a strainer. But on the hose I'm confused. What's the problem?

Yes, it is strange. And worrying. He's on my prayer list and I know others that are praying for him as well. Lots of people have been asking about him.

Oops. Was just making it bigger so I could see. And, having done that, it looks like there are wires for power and ground to the pump. No?

Several of you have reached out to me because you've missed Jim. As have I. Jim's last post was on Sept 18th. I've called him and had to leave a voice message. I've texted him, with no response. And I've emailed him, as have some of you. In the morning I'll put a card in the mail to him in the hope that I can reach him. But if any of you know anything about his whereabouts please let us know.

Don't miss that there's parallel discussion going on about this in the other thread: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Correct-under-dash-harness-for-Tachometer-td75138.html#a75466

Barry - With two threads going on essentially the same topic you may get info that is seemingly at odds with each other. Given that, I'm going to post a link back to this thread in the other one so everyone knows they are connected. But Jonathan/Ford F834 is 100% right. The harness you need is very long, headlight-to-headlight across around and through the dash, and there are lots of little wiring changes over the years. So you'd have to concentrate your search to probably 1982 to 1984 trucks. And even then I'm not sure it would be plug and play. If I were doing it I'd almost for sure go with the approach Jonathan suggested of getting the 18 pin connector and a bit of wire with it, and grafting it into your system. Here's what I think the changes would be: Pin Swaps: You'd have to pull the pins out of the 18 pin connector and your 14-pin connector, and put yours into the 18 pin connector in the positions shown in the spreadsheet Ammeter: For this I'd have Rocketman change the ammeter in your new cluster to a volt meter. Plus you'd have some very minor wiring to do. Alternator Warning Light: If you have a volt meter you don't need the warning light. So you could just put a resistor across the two wires, and that would bootstrap the alternator. Oil Pressure Gauge: I think you have a switch instead of a sender, so you'd have to change that out on the engine. Not a big deal. To my way of thinking that would be FAR easier than replacing the whole harness.

Ray - I agree that it seems backward. I always have to look it up. But at least you know what you need to do. Bill - Yes, it is the "aux drive" so shouldn't wear the tires too much. I'll drive it a bit more and report back. As for unequal length driveshafts, I had a buddy that bought a new Mazda MX6 turbo in '90 or so. It had very unequal length driveshafts as was written up in all the rags for its handling. He had me drive it and at one point told me to get a FIRM grip on the wheel and floor it. I did and was immediately in a wrestling match for control of the steering wheel! Fortunately I won, but had I not been warned I might have lost. That thing was evil!

I'm not Bill, but maybe I can help. First, on the sending unit, tank, etc, I recently bought a new Spectra tank with the pump and sending unit included. It was for a '95 so is a different unit, but you might look for that combo for your truck as it was very cost effective and kept the shipping cost down. But, to answer your question, a Delphi sending unit and Spectra tank will be fine. As for what the tan/light green wire does, it is used to pull in the fuel pump cutoff relay. On Page 60 you'll see the blue triangle marked ZZ, and if you follow its wires back you'll find that it is powered by the EEC Power Relay in Run or Start. That goes to Page 104 where the Fuel Pump Cutoff Relay is, and it supplies power to that. Then, on the other side of the relay is the tan/light green wire & another blue triangle marked YY, which goes off to Page 62. And on that page you'll see the ECA, which grounds the wire and, therefore, pulls the relay in. And that provides power to the pumps.

Chris - I think the long bolt, 383721, that is shown in the illustration below just above the pulley is what it rotates on. And it slides on 370608. So both of those have to be loosened. And bracket 3A732 as well as the pump itself rotates. As for the A/C, if you pushed the valve and there's no pressure then there's really nothing left to recover. So you can pull the condenser and replace it. But I wouldn't leave the system open for any longer than you have to as that allows moisture and other things to get in. But, there's really not much to a condenser. It is just a long tube with fins welded to it. So there's not much to go wrong.

Bill - I think you were thinking of the 0 on toe. It looks to me like it is at 3.2 and 3.4 degrees of caster. Right? But there's room for more caster and still be in the range. I think I'll drive it this way some more and then see if I want to dial in more. My observation of it wandering was made when I was worn to a frazzle, so perhaps it was me and not the truck?

Well done! But it looks like you now have a 7-toothed drive gear instead of the 8-toothed gear that was on there originally. I would think that would make your speedo read low by 13%. If that's true then you may want to reduce the driven gear tooth count by two.

Yippee! Glad it made it. And, glad you put it together.

Good job, Ray!

Yes, they do drink to excess. But, it used to get 11 to 12 MPG in those conditions with a worn out engine and no overdrive. As for the video, our day was rough, but not like that!