Gary Lewis

Not seeing the track bar and the drag link at the same time it's hard to picture exactly what will happen as the suspension cycles. It looks like the track bar is probably pretty close to parallel with the drag link. But it also looks to be a lot shorter. So I'm not sure what that will do with bump steer. The issue (obviously?) is that the drag link will push the tie rod back and forth as the suspension cycles and the track bar will push the axle back and forth. If the tie rod moves the same distance as the axle there won't be any steering input. If they move different amounts there will be bump steer. With the different lengths the movement can't be the same through the entire range of travel. But is it pretty close in the normal range of travel? That's what I can't wrap my head around without seeing it better. But this is all talking about bump steer, which is one issue you mentioned. But it won't affect wander which is priobably your bigger concern. I wouldn't think that adding the sway bar would make a lot of difference in the steering unless you feel the truck swaying side to side. If the truck is moving around quite a bit that means you could be getting "bump steer" even if there aren't any bumps. But I'm guessing Big Blue isn't swaying around noticeably. Sure, you could put it on to verify. But I'd be surprised if it would affect your steering, at least in general driving. I "see" what you are talking about with track bar vs drag link length, suspension "cycling", etc. It is an adjustable track bar, but where I have it puts the front and rear tires in alignment with each other with the truck on the ground. That took a lot of adjustment to do, but it seems to be what you are supposed to do. However, if the toe-in adjustment doesn't do the trick then I could try adjusting the track bar. On the sway bar, I'm with you that it won't make much difference in steering. Taking it off didn't, and there's essentially no sway at the present so I'm not seeing the need.

True for TTB, but not for a solid front axle. Toe-in won't change because the knuckles are always the same distance apart (fixed by the axle housing) and the one-piece tie rod is always the same length. Bob - Sorry, but I had my response pretty well ready to post when you posted, and forgot to mention that you recommended the same thing that Steve and Tire Rack did - more/some toe-in. Thanks! And, a fun fact: As it turns out, with 33" tires my CAD program says that each .01 degree of toe-in brings the edge of the tire in .005". And since you are doing that with both tires each .01 degrees gets you .01" of toe-in.

Guys - Thanks for all the input. I certainly appreciate it. But I think I may see what the problem is, and it fits with what Steve is saying - toe-in. The factory specs from the 1995 FSM are below, and I've highlighted the toe-in specs, which are supposed to be between .035 and .085 degrees, with .06 being the center of that. But Big Blue is sitting right on 0. Using CAD, on 33" tires having both of them toed in at .06 degrees, which I think is what is meant, will put the front inside edges of the tires .060" closer than straight ahead. So basically 1/16". Am I doing that correctly? That fits with Tire Rack's statement of "Increased toe-in will typically result in reduced oversteer, help steady the car and enhance high-speed stability." And it fits with Steve's statements of "If the toe is set at 0 sitting still, then the toe will be toe out at speed" and "Toe out will cause a wandering feeling and will cause the "bump steer" at speed." So my plan is to have the toe-in set to .06 degrees and see what that does. But are there other questions that y'all have? Did I miss something? Bob - I see you just replied, and Jim replied to your post. But there is a track bar on the back of the axle on the passenger's side, as shown below. What I don't have on is the factory sway bar, and that's because taking the sway bar off the TTB's helped the ride significantly, and I'm looking for ride quality. Once I get the steering sorted then I could put the sway bar on and see what it does.

I can answer the picture orientation question. It is because this forum's software, like most, was written before cameras embedded its orientation info in the metadata within the picture's file. And smart devices, like your phone, re-orient it before they display it to you. But this forum doesn't. The solution is to open the picture in an editing package, some of which are free, and save it. That usually fixes the problem. But, be aware that the largest file you can post on here w/o ticking the Big box is 999 KB, meaning 1 Mb won't load. So when you edit your pics you might want to downsize them to about 500 Kb. As for the carb, in the first pic the carb's vent to the charcoal cannister below the battery has been plugged. Also, in the second and third pics the exhaust heat system has been removed from the choke. Originally the line in #2 ran down to the exhaust and pulled in hot air for the choke. There was also a clean air feed to the exhaust from the carb, which is probably the line in #3. The line in #5 is probably the vacuum line to the vacuum advance. #6 is a vacuum hose on the temp sensor. Read about that here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/air-cleaners.html On the tach, read about the wring here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/tachometers.html. But that wire probably goes to the coil.

No prob, John. But since I have several email addresses for you I was afraid I'd used the wrong one. Take your time, but I'll plug away on the document I've got going and then you tell me how you'd like it changed.

Thanks, guys! Wow! I haven't posted in here since July???? Well, courtesy Scott/kramttocs we have a new document: Documentation>Literature/Miscellaneous Literature>Gear Vendors' Over/Underdrive Manual. Thanks, Scott!

Thanks, Dane. So the Google Drive one will work, but the One Drive one is a bust. Good to know.

John - I sent a draft writeup. Hope you are getting the emails?

Good to know, Scott. Thanks! That tip will help - when I get to that point. (Boy, do I have a LOT to do on this truck!)

I'm following this as Big Blue's insert is crumbling but the gasket is fine. So I'm wondering if I can just replace the insert.

Welcome! Glad you found us. That's a good looking truck, so let's get the pic on here where everyone can see it easily. Rowlett, TX. Want to be on our map? Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu.

Good to know, Jim. Thanks. Not convinced this is a good way of including a video, but it is better than the Microsoft One Drive way. What I've been thinking about is the fact that embedding a video means that it really resides elsewhere and you effectively just have a link to it. So if it goes away elsewhere it'll go away here. And it would be nice to have it really reside on the site to ensure it won't go away. But I've not, yet, found a way.

That's a lot of truck for $6K! A whole looooooong truck. But it appears to be all there and in great shape as well.

Not bad for the price. But while most of the things on the "needed" list could be easily corrected, the lack of A/C makes it undesirable here in the middle of the US.

That's for a 10.25 Sterling, and I don't think they changed from when they were introduced in '85 until well into the 90's.

I have a HUGE tool box on the truck, with lots of things in it, inc: A well-stocked Craftsman tool box with lots of hand tools A hydraulic bottle jack A canvas bag with enough chain to secure the rear of a vehicle on the trailer 3 serious ratchet straps to secure the front of a vehicle on the trailer 3 boomers to tighten the chain & wire to secure them with A 6" drop 12K lb capable draw bar A 2" draw bar with D-ring Tree-saver strap Pulley for the winch line 10' extension for the winch-to-battery wiring 4 wheel chocks A hook for the winch line So if any of those things gets up against the aluminum of the tool box then things get noisy on bumps.

I love that graphic! And, the feeling that comes with it! Congrat's!!!! And I agree with Jim, I'm not laughing at you. I got 11 MPG with Big Blue yesterday.

Yes, it isn't intuitive but is very helpful. And given the file size, now you can see why I've not put the '85 PDF on the site.

So tell me, folks, does the Google embed work differently for you? It sure does for me as it doesn't give the white/blank screen. And on my Windows tablet it works perfectly, meaning that it is there when I first pull the post up and plays immediately w/o going to another window.But on my iPhone X it won't play on this page, but if I click the "pop-out" icon in the upper right I'll quickly get a Google page followed by the video to play.

While it does just show a section of the wiring, I OCR the file so you can search for things. I've used the '85 file many times to find all of the uses of a certain wire color or circuit number. Comes in very handy - if a person will/can properly describe the wire colors.

I do have a 1982 EVTM. I could scan it in w/o too much trouble, but creating an indexed setup like I have on the 1981, 85, and 86 EVTM's takes a lot of time. So I could just put it up as one pdf. However, the 1985 I've done that way, but isn't on the site, is 230 Mb, so you aren't going to just go to it for a quick reference. And you can't easily copy a page and put it in a post. Would that work, Andre?

Here 'tis from the Google Drive:

Yep, that's exactly how I embedded it. Might work with a little video, if there is such a thing. I'll copy it to my Google Drive and try that, but I suspect it is the size of the file that's causing the problem.

Clearly this is NOT the way to embed videos.

Yuppers!