Gary Lewis

I tried JB Weld on the Holley on my first Super Bee. Didn't hold up. My guess is that yours didn't either. Bummer. As for the headlights, both beams work but not the indicator. Ahh, now I see.

If you put it over the hinge that's there then I think that would give the offset. Maybe others can say? But if I was able to reach in there and do my work surely it is possible to clean the plastic and slap a bandage on.

Jim - Are you saying that the self-adhesive webbing would work for a hinge? That might be an excellent idea! I was able to put a hinge in Big Blue's door while everything was in the truck, but it was a huge pain. HUGE! However, I think you could reach in and stick a piece of webbing on.

Not good, Jim! Carb problems are no fun, but an accelerator pump problem is almost a killer. Sorry! Time to put the Holley on? On the high beams, is it your dimmer switch? The lows work but the highs don't?

Yep, I know the drill.

Aesthetics. Functionally I think outboard is better from just about any way you look at it. Just not DRAMATICALLY better, so aesthetics might win out for me. Bringing back the pictures I posted earlier, my pickup doesn't have anything to work around and you can see where I ended up there. (Although full disclosure, a PO had drilled holes there, otherwise I might have centered the lights with the outer slots in the grill). And on the Bronco I probably wouldn't have gone so far out, but I wanted room to use my hi-lift jack on the bumper between the tow point and the fog light (the fog lights stick forward of the bumper). http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n81258/DSC_0655.jpg http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n13104/DSC_7617_EngMtRd.jpg I agree that aesthetically inboard is better. Outboard doesn't line up with the other lights, but it comes close enough that it looks like you tried and failed. And inboard doesn't look that way. But the question becomes how easy they will be to work around and how much of the light is cut off. I think when the time comes I'll mount them in the inboard position and see how that works. Thanks!

Well, if it works... This document says "fuel lines" and I would think that would include gasoline. So I think you are ok. Keep us posted, please.

Looks like it belongs there! Thanks! I really didn't like the way the previous return was routed, so this one is much better. But it sure is a pain to work on. There's precious little room, so I hope I don't have to take it off any time soon. And, back to the lights for a moment, the top plate of the bumper isn't the stiffest piece of metal on the planet and I'd like the lights to be mounted SOLIDLY. As it turns out the heavy brace that supports the outer ends of the bumper is directly below both holes, albeit maybe 2 1/2" below, so I'm planning to use it in some way. My first thought is a threaded stud mounted on the brace that is just long enough to go through the top plate and the light base with enough threads for a washer, lock washer, and nut. I'd run a nut and washer up under the plate then sandwich the plate and the mount between the two nuts. Another approach would be to weld a piece of angle to the brace such that it comes up against the bottom of the top plate and drill a hole in it to match the one in the top plate. Then bolt through that to mount the light. Other suggestions?

You asked... For starters I'd turn the lights out about 30 degrees (you seem to have the patterns facing straight ahead). Maybe that's how you plan to mount them, and if so, then my thought doesn't matter much (which is as it should be since it's your truck and you're driving it). But if they were aimed out you'd be aiming them away from the blockage, so less light would be blocked. Second, I don't think I get how you are showing what the blocked pattern would look like. If I were mocking it up I'd draw a line from the inside edge of the light (or the center, but inside edge is worst case) to the outside edge of the winch plate(?) that will be blocking the light, and continue that line out away from the truck (unless the light was actually behind the plate this line would angle across in front of the truck). Then I'd remove the part of the pattern that was outside of that line. Looking back at the picture where you have the light in the two locations, the light looks to be VERY slightly outside of the winch plate, so the cutoff line would go almost straight ahead, but it would be farther out that it seems to me that your showing it. But also looking at the earlier picture, the corner of the winch plate is cut off, so it won't block as much of the patters as a straight line would indicate. And perhaps drawing the line from the center of the lense would be more representative of what it would actually do, which would mean even less light blocked. Bottom line is that especially if the lights were angled out as much as I do it, I don't think the light blockage from the inboard position would be significant. If that's true, then it comes down to aesthetics vs the better step. I'm not going to suggest how I think you should make that call, because I think it's too personal. Bob - I'm not really showing how the bumper blocks the light. Just assuming that you would notice where it would be blocked. I could draw the line you suggested, but then your question of where to start the line comes up. Is the edge the right place? The center? I don't know. I took Hella's beam pattern and enlarged it to fit the whole of the light. But I don't know if that is correct. And you are right, the winch plate is angled, so it won't be as dramatic as it appears. But I do think that my drawing is pretty close to right. I measured several different ways, so I'm pretty sure that the position of the holes is correct with reference to the winch plate. As for the angle, I'm not sure I want mine turned out that much. But that's something that I'll have to wait to find out after getting the lights installed. Having said all that, after I backed the truck out to use the steering and brakes with the new pump installed I had to climb up to add more fluid. Yep, I stood on the bumper, very close to where the light would be if it was in the inboard position. I found that I could get my boot on top of the bumper and miss where the light would have been, but it looked close. However, I was guestimating where the light would be since it wasn't on, and that's hard to do. So I think I need to put the left one on in the inboard position and see just how precarious it is getting on the bumper. Maybe it'll be just fine. If so, then I could move on to a visual test, meaning somehow mount the other light w/o drilling a hole and see what I think of the pattern. Then move them outboard and check that. I'm gathering from your comments that you think the inboard position is much better than outboard. Is it aesthetics? Function? Just trying to understand.

I do not have to decide right now, but wanted to play with it a bit today and start thinking about it. And I'm still open to any and all comments. Thanks! And, here are the corrected drawings. I made a change in the light pattern. It was essentially coming from the middle of the light so I increased the size to show it as coming from the whole of the light. I don't know if that is correct, but if so it increases the amount of cutoff in the inboard position. Thoughts? The Saginaw pump is installed. And the return turned out much better than it had been. Here's the original and you can see the big loop that the return takes. The power steering fluid comes up from the cooler on the frame, meets the return from the hydroboost at the top of the loop, and then continues down to the inlet to the pump. Here's essentially the same picture with the new pump, and if you use your imagination you can see the hose coming up from the cooler on the frame, then the tee where the hydroboost return comes in below the pump, and then the line to the pump. And here's a closer view if you can't see it in the above pic. I'm not proud of the hose clamps, but I don't have the right fuel injection clamps and couldn't get a tool down there to put the circle clamps on, so chose to go with the screw clamps and installed them after the hose was installed. But, it works and it sure cleaned things up.

Ok, lunch is over and Janey's vote is this: I do not have to decide right now, but wanted to play with it a bit today and start thinking about it. And I'm still open to any and all comments. Thanks! And, here are the corrected drawings. I made a change in the light pattern. It was essentially coming from the middle of the light so I increased the size to show it as coming from the whole of the light. I don't know if that is correct, but if so it increases the amount of cutoff in the inboard position. Thoughts?

I'll try to answer some of the questions: I do not have to make a decision now as I'm a long way from being ready to mount them I'd rather not drill extra holes but surely I can come up with a way to mount them w/a magnet to let me see what they look like Asking Janey is probably the best bet! Lunch is SOON so I'll ask Meanwhile, here's my CAD work using the image out of the Hella catalog for the pattern. It is hard to see but the inboard position is blocked to some extent. However, I see that somehow the patterns for the left three are reversed. The one on the far right is correct. I'll redraw after lunch. And I'll try to make it more obvious what the blockage is.

The only documentation I'm aware of is in the dealer facts books. Go to Documentation/Engine/Windsor and then click the 351W tab and then the Specifications tab. Let that fill in and scroll down to the 1984 or later info. There you'll find the factory specs awa the statement of "The new 5.8L (351) V-8 4V has additional features which incude: 17" air cleaner, staged four barrel carburetor, cast iron intake manifold with large passages, performance camshaft, Dura Spark Il ignition and dual exhaust." (Yep, it says "incude".)

They can be rotated 360, but the upright is still going to block it. Maybe I need to draw this out so we can see what the impact is....

But it's easier to drain the oil! Bob - That's for sure! Ok folks, Janey relented on wrapping the fog lights, so I brought them out to the shop this morning and did a mockup of where they'd go. Turns out there are two plugged holes so I can choose either. The pics below show where they'd go. The pics are taken at the level of the fog light, and that is with the center 35 1/2" off the ground, so there's little chance that either would block the turn signal. I can see advantages and disadvantages. The outboard one will be pretty much free of the top of the bumper so if I need to stand there they won't be in the way. And it won't be shaded by the center upright piece of the bumper, like the inboard one would be. On the other hand it isn't quite centered up with the other lights. Anyway, I need your opinions.

Wow! How many poor Nauga gave up their lives for that roll? As little as they are surely that took a whole herd. Or, is that den? Or pack? In any event, well done!

Yes, and apparently Cobra thought it was needed - at least in some cases. But I'm hoping that in this case it won't be needed. Or that another workaround can be found if that device is NLA.

So some needed both? Man, that 460 is a hot beast, but wow! I'm thinking that the one on the water neck may be enough in this case. So my answer to the original question is "Hopefully you don't need it." I'd either replace the PVC hose with a full-length one or put a double-barb in that doohickey's place and try w/o it. If it gets hot and needs the extra idle speed then it can be addressed later.

The problem (imho only) is that most "upgrades" for the small block Ford engines increase power from 3000-6000 RPM, and most people with trucks spend all of their time between 1500-3000 RPM. Of course you will see improvements all across the board, but the big gains are all in the higher RPM's. Rembrant, I've noticed this. In researching my engine build, it seems that most marketing for aftermarket parts is directed at developing racing-type engines and not basic truck engines. I can see how easy it would be to get sucked into the "rabbit hole". I am interested in upgrades that may make the engine more reliable or durable, but I figure sticking to something close to a stock configuration is probably best for truck-type performance. I mean, Ford must have known something about how to put together a truck engine when they built these things in the first place lol. Cheers, Lucas A bit earlier Cory/Rembrant said "My only disappointment is that I spent too much money on my 302. I should have left it much closer to stock, or if I was going to spend all that money I should have just replaced it with a 351." And the "351" bit of that statement is my thinking as well. There's just not a lot that can be done to any bore/stroke combo to gain low-end torque. You can add compression, but doing much there then requires higher octane fuel and that is more expensive to operate. However, more stroke gives you more mechanical advantage and increases the torque. So, put a stroker kit in. But, that's expensive so why not go with an engine that is already stroked? In stock trim it won't cost any/much more to build and will give more torque. The downside is it will probably use more fuel. But will the lower cost to get more torque pay for the fuel? I don't know, but it is a question that should be thought through.

Jim - Did the same engine also get the thermally-controlled vacuum switch/valve that put manifold vacuum to the vacuum advance? Or did some use that thingamajig to give more air and others use the switch to give more vacuum? If not, then the vacuum switch could be used to speed up the idle - if that function is needed.

I haven't found a CD with the EVTM for any year. All I've found is the paper ones. And I have all of them from 1980 through 1987 and then 1995. So, Andre, I can scan that paper one for you and put it on the site. It'll be a large file, probably over 200 Mb as the '85 is 229 Mb. But you could then download it and either print it or use it on your computer. The beauty of that is that it will be OCR'd so you can search for wire colors, connectors, functions, etc. Rewiring the vehicle is a massive undertaking. But you are right, there are so many improvements that can be made. The manufacturers hadn't yet gone to relays for many things when our vehicles were designed, and a modern relay box can do wonders, and toward that end I suggest you read this thread wherein the guys have suggested various relay setups they've used. But you certainly will need to keep track of all those wiring changes, so a schematic is the way to go. Otherwise troubleshooting will be a nightmare! So, how soon do you need the '82 EVTM? I'm in the middle of something on my truck right now so I'm not ready to do it, but please let me know when you'd like it. Jim - Andre is right, the two headlights are fed via different runs off the headlight switch. Nothing went over the radiator support. So the passenger's headlight frequently gets even less voltage than the driver's headlight, and since the voltage/lumens curve is ~exponential, that's a bad deal.

Yup, the 5 gallon bucket is a NO NO! DAMHIK. While I was doing all of the underhood work I ratchet-strapped the step to the tire. Worked great. But yesterday I didn't think I needed to do that. I just realized why I was so tired yesterday! I was up and down on that step a hundred times, getting the right tool, picking up the right tool after I dropped it, putting the tool up, etc. THAT must have been why we hit the hay a bit early last night. Jobs like this on a tall truck are more work than on a shorter truck.

My theory is that if you can't drive it then you have to assume it has multiple problems. And I won't pay over scrap price for it. I hadn't derived that theory when I bought Rusty, which supposedly needed a clutch. A clutch kit was $100, so no problem - he was asking $700 so I gave him $600. But it wasn't the clutch - the whole rear diff was blown up, big time. And the transfer case didn't shift properly. And the front drive shaft was bad. And the engine spewed oil 'cause the intake manifold hadn't been put on properly. And, and, and..... So I'm sorry, but there's no way I'd give $3750 for that. If I was interested I'd tell him to fix it himself, which he says he might do, and I'd come drive it and we could negotiate from there. That way I could find out what the other problems are and factor them into the pricing.

Beautiful, Andre!

Part of the "battle" was due to the length of the Saginaw pump's shaft. Given that you have to run the puller a long ways, with significant resistance the whole way. And there's no room between the end of the puller's center bolt and the shroud to get a socket and a ratchet on the bolt, so you have to use an end wrench, which is constantly coming off. On top of that, the driving piece is large enough that I don't have a ratcheting end wrench that size, and I had to use an open-end, which was also frequently coming off. And the installation of the pulley is the reverse of the above, although the driving piece on that is small enough that I do have a ratcheting wrench that will fit. Plus Big Blue is so tall that I have to have something to stand on and I use the aluminum "stand" I got from Northern Tool for that. But as I bend over to get down to where the pump is my legs put an outward pressure on the stand, and it sometimes moves, dropping me on the fender. As I combed my hair after the shower last night I was amazed at the marks on my arms I saw in the mirror. Yep, it was a battle. I won, but there were casualties. Concerning the routing, there are two aspects to that: The orientation of the tee and the placement thereof. The main flow is the return from the power steering so the orientation should be such that the power steering return has the straight shot. In the pic below you can see how the tee is oriented, with the return from the power steering's cooler on the frame being the hose going down, and the return from the hydroboost being the hose on the right. The the hose going up in the pic did a 180 and came back down to the return fitting on the pump, which pointed mainly up. But that was an obnoxious looking loop that yelled ADD ON! My hope is that I can go straight down from the pump's fitting and immediately into the tee and then down into the hose to the cooler on the frame. And if the tee is oriented with the side exit pointing to the bottom of the pic, which would be toward the left fender, the return from the hydroboost can come along the fender liner and under the pump to the tee. That would give a much cleaner look to it.