Gary Lewis

Thanks, guys! I'm really pleased with it as well. And I think it'll look awesome when lit up at night. Now I need to figure out what to do with that opening above the switches. Could put a black piece of plastic back there to close it off. John - The alignment was done at Tate Boys. Jim - I'll think about drilling a new hole on the driver's side to line the lights up with the headlights and turn signals. It would only be one extra hole 'cause I obviously have to drill a hole some place on the passenger's side.

Jim - You can use an E9 circuit? I thought it was only E8's. I may have an E9 off Huck. If I do it is yours if you can use it.

We've been around a lot of Germany, but would still like to come back when the COVID virus is gone. We love the history, the scenery, and the people.

That's cool!!!! What are your plans for it?

Good plan on the lifting. On the cracking, I've not seen that in any of the Bullnose trucks I've been around. Have you posted pics of the cracks?

You did find a real pro, Heinz!

Welcome! Glad you joined. Nice truck! The interior looks remarkably clean. Where in NC? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd be happy to add you if we had a zip or city. Hope you'll start a thread in the main section or in Projects where we can follow along on your family's project. But is it you and a son or daughter? Who else is involved? What are your plans? So many questions!

I had 40 in them, but it made them like steel wheels on gravel roads. I put them back to the 35 I've been running before taking it in for alignment. And, speaking of that, the big wig there assured me that if it drives fine on a flat concrete road that changing the toe-in won't make any difference. But, they'd check it out. Turns out it was toed out .16 degrees, so they set it to the .06 toe in the FSM called for. And it certainly drives better. We hope to take it out again later this week for another outing and will find out more then. Also, I stopped by the filling station and calibrated the gauge. Took some time but have it set up to read correctly at empty, 1/3, 2/3, and full. And speaking of full, it would only take 16 gallons. So apparently it runs out with 3 gallons left in the rear tank. And I tried the speed control. The switches on the Bricknose pad work perfectly. Thanks again, Scott! But there is still some unevenness in the operation of the speed control. At speed the speedometer is rock steady, but at low speeds like in the neighborhood at 15 - 20 MPH I can see the needle flicker. So, y'all, where do I go next on getting the speed control smoothed out? I don't think it is the speedo cables as both cables are well lubed. And the transducer has been changed out with no effect. These systems don't have a vacuum reservoir do they? I can't see one in the documentation. But I can sure see the throttle action on the vacuum gauge. So I'm at a loss as to what to do next. On another subject, one week to the day after ordering the switches they came in. I popped them in, save for the locker switch as the old one was already in, for a photo opportunity:

I think that's going to work nicely. I understand about the "hacky" look, but sometimes you just gotta do what works. On my oil cooler lines I used galvanized 45's and wish I'd painted them black as they do tend to shine a bit when you look down there. But they won't rust.

How does the MeterMatch work with two fuel level sensors and one gage? Does it have the ability to handle that? Or do you need a separate MeterMatch for each tank? I ask because the fuel gage on my Bronco is really hard to use, especially on the main tank. The aux tank is only 9 gallons and when it gets to "E" there's maybe 3 gallons left, which is a reasonable safety margin. But neither on either tank the gage doesn't go all the way to "F". And the 23 gallon(?) main tank reads 3/4 when it's full, and hits "E" with about 15 gallons remaining. That makes the gage pretty unusable! Bob - The way I did it was to put the switch ahead of the Meter Match so I switched the senders. But you could put in two Meter Matches and switch the gauge. However, if both senders have roughly the same resistance at empty and full then you could program one Meter Match to work for you. Neither gauge is likely to be "right" but I'd think they'd be close. If you know the resistance of the senders at empty and full you can use resistors to calibrate the unit initially. That's what I did and it got me pretty close, but empty on the rear tank was well past the E until yesterday. So now I'm calibrating with the tank empty and then at 1/3, 2/3, and full. On yours, E represents 1/3 of the aux tank and more like 2/3 of the main tank. So you could set it up for E to be truly empty on the Aux and you might have a few gallons left on the main tank. And you can certainly get one of the tanks to read Full on the gauge when full, and the other would be close. So I think you'd like it. Now, to shed some light () on the positioning of the fog lights, I adjusted the choke today and needed to stand on the bumper to do it. So I put some tape on the bumper to simulate where I thought I could put my foot and climbed up there. Then it dawned on me that the lights stick out farther than I thought so I put the driver's side fog light in the inboard position. And I can't get my foot there to do anything under the hood. So I'm pretty sure I'll put the lights in the outboard position.

Hmmm? 11 mpg becomes 11.88 mpg! Well, I let the tires down - from 40 to 35 psi. Will that help? As for the "improved" MPG, not going to happen, at least not now. I have a red/16-toothed gear in it and our handy dandy calculator says I need a 15-toothed right-hand gear. I don't have one and a quick look says Ford didn't use one and I didn't see anything with a Google search. Besides, last I checked the odometer was very accurate. So it appears that the speedometer is the issue. If I remember correctly the speedo can be calibrated and the magic # is 1000 RPM = 60 MPH. My lathe has several speeds and while none is exactly 1000, I think I can do the math to inter/extrapolate. So, when I'm next into that area, which will be when I replace the instrument bezel, I think I'll try that. Or, maybe I'll try in the interim w/a spare speedo. On a related speed (), I swapped out the speed control transducer and lubed the one I put in. And, I re-lubed the lower speedo cable. Last time I used some graphite lube meant for that purpose, but it didn't do the job. This time I used Sta-Lube's Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease, which says it contains moly b'dern, graphite, and Teflon. May work for a speedo cable. So it is off to the alignment shop in a bit, then the gas station to fill up the rear tank and calibrate the Meter Match, and then to ship a few things.

Right. Those adverts are very misleading. While those carbs may bolt onto all of those engines, they aren't right for all of those engines. Ford used different venturi sizes for different engines as well as different jetting in the carb. As Jim said, your small engine needs a small carb to get a good vacuum signal and give decent part-throttle response and fuel economy. The 2100's and 2150's came in several sizes. According to Wikipedia "The 2150 improved on the 2100s design through the introduction of a variable air bleed system, which keeps the air to fuel mixture better balanced throughout the carburetor's full range of operation." And, it came in two sizes: 1.08 venturi, 287 CFM for engines up to and including the 302 1.21 venturi, 351 CFM for engines from 351 CI up to and including the 400 The 2100 came in several sizes, but they were also used on different engine sizes to give adequate vacuum at low RPM. So while the advertised carbs will bolt on and let all of those engine sizes run, they won't run correctly. And the adverts don't say what size those carbs are.

After that JLL-like link you sent me, this one has the rocking continuing.

Yep. And I can pull up the calibration parts list if I knew the code, and the parts list gives the part numbers for things like the distributor, carburetor, etc. Those things were very closely tuned to each application.

I think the calibration code will be on a sticker on the valve cover. Should look like this:

Good progress! And, as Jim says, progress is good. Speaking of Jim, I agree on the carb. I'd go with a 2150 if you aren't changing anything else, like cam, intake, etc. But Holley made a carb specifically to replace the VV since so many people wanted them gone. We have the factory shop manual section as well as info on the Holley carb on the page at Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Motorcraft 7200 VV. I believe the VV is a good carb, but is not well understood. However, I've never run one nor tuned one, so what do I know? Bill Vose/85lebaront2 is the one to ask about that.

I agree with Jim. But you may be planning just basic things. So let me suggest a process. I'd play with ignition timing first, and by that I mean base timing or what Jim called "static" timing. It can really change other things, so if the engine is running fairly well play with it first. Disconnect the vacuum advance and set the timing to what the sticker calls for plus two degrees. Reconnect the vacuum advance and drive it and see how it responds. Especially listen for detonation or pinging. And see how it starts - does it kick back or start normally. If it liked +2 degrees give it +4. And maybe +6, but depending on what the recommended timing is I don't think I'd go over 14 degrees BTDC or you may have pinging or detonation next summer. With that done you may have to adjust your idle speed if your vacuum advance is on at idle. And then I'd adjust the idle air/fuel mix. After that the choke since the idle mix does effect the choke. As for the dash pot, is it the one that slows the closing of the throttle?

Sorry. I tried to keep it longer but Mother Nature wasn't cooperative. But we'll do our best to wring out the one getting here tomorrow and only let a dusting pass on by. On the Meter Match, I noticed that turning the key on with the setting switch in anything but the "0" Normal Operation gave strange results. So I always turn the key on with the switch in "0" and then turn the switch to the position you are going to calibrate. And do NOT forget to hit Save.

Looks like quite the haul, Shaun. How did you get that stuff loaded? The axle by itself is HEAVY!

is like Chicken Man? He's everywhere, he's everywhere!

Now THAT is a huge slap in the face! Even the Russians are giving you grief.

Thanks guys! It's more like 3.5 hours but I was expecting traffic. My buddy that was holding it for me lives near Port Charlotte, hence the long drive. I was mainly after the full-float rear axle w/4.10's and sway bar, as well as the 460 frame perches. The front leaf spring brackets, front sway bar (TTB not Solid Axle), bricknose manual steering column, spare steering gear box, HD rear leaf springs, and other misc parts were just a bonus. Everything else was cut into smaller sections and sent to the scrapyard. Florida Man's truck is no more. It sure was a special, the rear platform supports were galvanized pipe. We had to quit torching them and resort to cutting them with the grinder for obvious reasons. The rest was a mixture of all-thread and rebar. The truck was definitely toast. Glad you had a safe and productive trip. sure gets around. Our son and DiL are buying a house there and in the inspection they discovered that he'd put two wires under one screw for a breaker.

Today was a SLOOOOOW day. It started snowing about 7 AM and snowed until mid-afternoon. So Janey and I sat on the back porch for coffee, then Bible class, then church, then lunch, etc. We've long wanted to watch it snow and today was our first chance so we made the best of it. I have some things to ship tomorrow and got them ready to go. And then I reset the Empty point on the Meter Match. I discovered that there are two intermediate points in the range and not just one, so tomorrow when I fill up the rear tank I'll run it up to 6.3 gallons and make the gauge read about 1/3, then 12.7 gallons and make the gauge read about 2/3, and finally fill it all the way up and check that it shows right on Full and tweak that if not. But I think I'll not fill the front tank and continue to drive using it so I can then run through roughly the same process on it. Hopefully I won't have to make any changes, but would like to find out how close it is. In any event, I think I'm really going to like the Meter Match. Oh yes, I've made arrangements to have the toe-in set tomorrow as well. And I think I'll swap out the speed control's transducer before I go. That way I can take a spin out into the country to see if the toe-in change helped and also test the speed control to see if the surge has gone away. And, as I think about it, I'll see what driven gear is in the transfer case and if I have the right replacement. It reads about 8% slow. Maybe I can make that better as well.

Progress is good!

Absolutely BEAUTIFUL!