Gary Lewis

Ok, here are wiper and headlights knobs, and you can see the spring. The shaft is too big to go through with the spring at that angle, but when you are installing the knob the spring gives and lets the knob go on. But then the spring comes back and binds the shaft. So to release it you take a small tool bent in an L or a J and reach in at the slot and depress the spring and the knob comes off. But it is easier said that done, as I was reminded two hours ago taking those off. The HVAC knobs are similar but there's not any notch.

Paul - Glad you finally joined the right forum! (For the rest of you, he tried to join the TEST forum w/o knowing that it is only for testing purposes.) Castle Rock. I know exactly where that is having driving through there a number of times, and once about 6 weeks ago. Would you like to be on our map? (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu.) What part of England? I lived in Moor Park, north of Northwood, 30 years ago, and several on here either live there now or used to do. Nice truck. With those low miles perhaps it hasn't been hacked? And hopefully it isn't too rusty. All else is usually easy to fix.

You didn't say which knob, but most of them have a little spring that you depress with a hook. Let me take a pic and I'll show you. Meanwhile, which knob?

Try it now, please. EDIT: Make sure you refresh.

Here are my pics. Hope they help. Here's the left hose and you can see how it connects to the connector on the bracket and then goes through the frame. Ditto the right one: And finally, here's a shot under the truck where you can see the left line come through the from, the tube from the right line come up the crossmember, and both of them go into the proportioning valve:

Yes, that looks great, Cory! Well done! And you have it installed?

Which page is that, Jim?

Try Documentation/Engines/Starters for the info on your DB starter. But there's also the page at Documentation/Electrical/PMGR Starter Wiring. And that's the page where it says to use #10 wiring as the starter trigger wire. Looks like we need some re-organization, revisions, etc.

Pretty nice truck for that price - even with the dent.

I remember that crud! At one time the guys were calling the truck Crusty. And yes, it was hard and ON THERE! Good luck on the seal. But your plans to go with Blue Top if that doesn't work would be what I'd do as well. Redhead has had some reported quality and customer service issues if you believe what you read on the internet. But Blue Top doesn't seem to have suffered that fate - yet.

Thanks, guys. I plan to put this info onto the page at Documenation/Driveline/Speedometer Gears, Cables, & Sensors. And in the process of figuring out how to do that I took a peek at the calculators on that page. I'll have to confirm what my drive gear is in the t-case today, but if I put the 33" tire size into the Setup Gearing calculator I see that my speedo cable RPM should be 949 at 60 MPH. So instead of dividing my lathe's speed by 1000 to get the multiplier for the speedo reading, I need to divide by 949. That's a step I missed in the calibration procedure - finding out what your speedo cable RPM should be before adjusting the speedo. However, if you have stock gearing and tire sizes then you can probably assume 1000 RPM. And, I need to point out that this does not replace getting the right driven gear. Instead, this is for use when: You have the right drive and driven gears, but the speedo just reads incorrectly. For instance, on Big Blue the odometer is very accurate, so I have "the right" gears. But the speedo is off and I want to correct it. There is no driven gear to correct the speedometer. For example, if you have a 16-toothed driven gear and the calculator says you need a 15. Sorry Charlie, those are hard to find if they exist at all. But, are there other scenarios where calibrating the speedo is appropriate? Thoughts?

Yes, I think you've hit on the problem - it jumped time. Trying to run backwards and backfiring through the carb are classic symptoms. To prove it see if you can check the timing. But that may not work if it is kicking back. So manually bring it up to TDC with a breaker bar and a 15/16" socket on the balancer bolt. Use your thumb over the spark plug hole to try to determine where TDC, but the marker on the balancer should be good. Then check where the rotor is pointing on the distributor. I'll bet it isn't pointing at the #1 terminal in the cap. Pull the fuel pump and check the slack in the timing chain. I'll bet there is more than the 1/2" of slack the FSM recommends.

You are, literally, on the map.

Hello!!! Glad you joined! Savannah? Been there a few times as that little air plane manufacturer was a client of mine at one point. Would you like to be on our map? Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. Nice truck! Really clean. And only 58K miles? Wow!

Yes, now that you mention it, those two do look like the lowered trucks. Or, maybe even "slammed". And I'm not a fan of those.

I forgot to say I'm curious how you did the brace. I'll be patiently awaiting the explanation and pics.

Looking good! But I can't wait for the startup!

No need on the lathe, just curious. While we're on the subject of speedometer accuracy, do you have over sized tires on your truck? If so, how do you go about ensuring speedometer accuracy in those types of changes? I do have oversized tires on the truck. They are 33" tires and certainly change the speedo reading. So your point is valid - I probably should have said that this approach will/should work if you have stock tires and gearing. But since my odometer is accurate then this is the only way to fix the speedometer error. As said, I expect to see ~64 instead of 69 MPH when I put the speedo on the lathe. Then I'll tweak it up the 5 mph and hope that it will read correctly when I put it back. But, I won't button everything up until I've taken a drive to prove the theory as I may have to come back and make further adjustments.

Something like those is what I was thinking of, Shaun. Probably the first two as not everyone has a 4wd. But we just need to incorporate the forum aspect. And maybe the url. And/or the QR code.

Thanks, Chris. I'll post another video tomorrow of what I find with Big Blue's speedo. I expect it to read ~64 MPH instead of 69. And, before someone says "change out the driven gear", I'm currently running a 16-toothed gear and don't see a 15 advertised. Besides, the odometer is pretty accurate with the 16. It is just the speedo that's off. So I plan to pull it tomorrow, test it, and hopefully calibrate it.

Thanks! It was fun, and something I've been wanting to try for a while. But since I need to pull the instrument cluster out of Big Blue to put the new speedo cable in I thought now was the time. So I used a spare speedo I have just in case it didn't work. The lathe is an Enco. Don't remember the size, but I can go look if you are interested.

I put you on the map in Cape Girardeau, but it is easily moved if you'd like. As for the brakes, I just used the lines that were on my '85 from the proportioning valve on the frame to the spots on the frame where the hoses connect. And the new hoses that I bought with my RSK fit into those lines, held in place by the funky retainers, and connected right up to the calipers. I can take pics tomorrow if you'd like. I'll have the truck up on the lift so that'll be easy peasy.

Let me say right up front that I've not put this speedo in my truck and tested it, but I'm pretty sure it'll work perfectly. Ok, with that disclaimer having been said, the following is how I think you can calibrate a speedometer on these trucks. From what I've read, the speedometer cable speed to show 60 MPH is 1000 RPM. So to do this you'll either need to have something with a known RPM or do some serious trial and error. My lathe has a number of speeds and since it is gear-driven they should be pretty accurate. Unfortunately none of those are exactly 1000 RPM, but one is close at 1150. By my calculation that should make the speedo read 69 MPH. So in the first video at the bottom of this post is a test of a speedo I have and it read 67 MPH when driven at 1150 RPM. And in the second video you'll see that after tweaking the clock spring it does read 69 MPH. And, just to check it out I shifted gears to a set that gives 890 RPM, which should show 53 MPH and it did. Then I went to 700, which should give 42 MPH and the speedo read 41. Finally I tried 300 RPM, which should be 18 MPH but the speedo read 12. So, while you can calibrate the speedo at a given speed, that doesn't mean it'll be right everywhere. But, how do you calibrate it? You rotate the fixed end of the clock spring a bit. Where's the clock spring? It is in the circle here: And here's a closer view of it: Finally, here's a view showing which way you rotate it to make it read faster or slower. BUT, you do NOT have to pull the needle and faceplate off to do the adjustment. I just did that so you could see how to rotate the arm. You can reach in with small screwdriver and slide the arm up or down, but try not touch the spring itself as it needs to be nicely coiled like this one is - now. And, here are the videos. First, this one shows the initial test where the speed came up to 67 MPH instead of the 69 MPH target: And this video shows the test after I tweaked the clock spring slightly and it comes right up to 69 MPH: Maybe tomorrow I'll be pulling Big Blue's speedo in order to install the new speedo cable that's to be here tonight. And that speedo is off ~5 MPH at 30 MPH and up, so I'll be calibrating it and we'll then know how well the process works.

Welcome! Glad you joined! Two things before I get to the question. First, where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you to it if we had a city or a zip. Second, the way the forum works not everyone will see your post here. So you may want to ask the same question in the main section. Just click the Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum link at the top or bottom of the page to go there. Now for your question. I put a '95 F350 D60 in my '85 and the hoses fit. I had to go with longer hoses due to the lift the RSK gave, but I'm pretty sure the old hoses would have fit. However, I don't know the size of the fittings. Hopefully someone else will.

Not sure I'm up to watching The Princess Bride w/o my grandkids. David - Actually, I haven't. I have changed out the servo several time, but have always put the slack back where the FSM says. I guess I should try that. Thanks! I'll do that when I put the new speedo cable and VSS in. For the first test I'll leave the slack where it is and then add some slack.