Gary Lewis

That isn't a bad price for the set. But, I'd want confirmation that the F O R D letters are from the later tailgate, as I think they are. Those letters are frequently lost and hard to find. And we have someone looking at a crewcab DRW at noon that is missing one.

I'll check those ID #'s to see if I can cross to part numbers - when I finish this cup of French and make my way through the COLD to the shop.

Which post? Give me a permalink?

So, they had master samples of hubcaps. Does that mean that had them for everything? Like interior panels in each color? And carpet? And..... Man, that would take a huge warehouse for just the Bullnose trucks, much less all the other vehicles.

Not a bad price. E4TZ 4800-A 84/88 F — Super Duty ' 1.57" I D.—2.83 O.D. center bearing - 9/ 16" slotted hole in mounting bracket

That is CHEAP!

I want to be like you when I grow up! Well, retirement is wonderful. Can't imagine how I had time to do ANYTHING when I was working.

French Roast to follow? Yep, just got it and a couple of Girl Scout cookies. Living the good life!

Good luck! I'm looking the pics over more closely and here are some observations: The push bar in front looks to be in great shape. And the exterior looks to be in good shape. But check the fiberglass fenders for breaks. In the underhood shot you can see that there is an aux battery relay in the upper right corner of the shot, above the speed control servo. But, there's no aux battery, which would have been between the radiator support and the coolant/washer reservoir. That confuses me. Everything I've read says that you only get that relay with an aux battery, but there isn't one. I'd ask why. Also, in that shot you can see what looks to be two circuit breakers on the firewall halfway between the aux battery relay and the wiper motor. I don't believe those are factory, so you should ask what they are for. Otherwise, it looks solid. Needs cleaning, carpet, headliner, and TLC.

YES! That's where I am at the moment, and I'm enjoying my cup of Verona as I watch the light come up slowly in the sky, revealing a lot of white. But the first, of many, rounds of snow isn't supposed to get here until tomorrow. Then Sunday night is the big one, followed by several more rounds next week. The temp hasn't been above mid-20's for many days, and it is 14F now, so the ground is COLD. The ice that coated everything several days ago is still there, and there's a dusting of snow on top of that. All of the roofs are completely white. The roads have been sanded and the main ones are pretty much clear, but we are just staying home and enjoying it.

According to my 1984 FSM, the clutch amp draw would be 4.7 amps. Below are the amps for the blower on F150-F350 and Bronco with standard and high output heater: I couldn't find anything specific regarding the amp draw of the AC Blower...it is slightly different isn't it? I assume it is a higher flow (thus higher amps) than the standard blower? The only other power consumer in the AC system would be the solenoid on the carb, which might draw and amp or two?...I'm not sure. (Not present on the 460 and Diesel anyway...just the "little" engines, like mine lol). Well, I missed Cory and Jim's replies. Cory - The A/C blower motor is a different part number than the heater motor, but it is hard to imagine that it could pull that much more. But back to the 26A max current draw that Scott found, I really question that since the whole circuit is fused at 30 amps. I seriously doubt that Ford would fuse something so tightly.

That's a good observation and a good question, Scott. I can easily check the current draw on BB's compressor clutch later today, but like you I didn't think it drew that much. Yikes! I'll do that and let you know.

Good morning, David! This is your early morning, and you are up quite early. No, Big Blue hasn't been out in over a week and probably won't be for another week. That's because of two things. First, I decided that wanted to get the inverter wiring done before he goes out again, and that has proven to be time consuming due to the need to get several little parts, like the padded clamps, none of which have arrived yet, probably due to the weather. And, speaking of the weather, it seems like it has been a year but it really has only been a few days that we've had ice and snow. However, the forecast suggests that it is going to be another week or so before things clear up, and in the interim we may have more than a foot of snow. Not many years ago I'd have been chomping at the bit to get BB out in the snow. But I've become a bit more cautious in my old age. I'm sure he would be excellent in it given the tires and the rear diff. However, with snow everywhere on the underside I can't put him back in the shop w/o having a huge mess when it all melts, and I have so many more things to do on him, so would rather not.

Yes, check the marks on the balancer. Do you have a tool with which to find TDC? They are really a piston stop and you'll read the balancer a few degrees ahead of TDC and then a few degrees after, and if the middle is TDC then the balancer is correct. Changing out to an E4OD is a major effort. The tranny requires a computer to control it, and a standalone one of those, like from Baughman, runs ~$750. Bill, and I when I get Dad's truck going, use the EEC-V ECU to do that as well as control the EFI. Plus, the E4OD is much longer than a C6, so the crossmember has to be changed and the driveshaft shortened. It is a lot of work and expense, and won't pay off for you for many, many miles.

Thanks, Jim. The beep is really obnoxious and I've read and re-read the manual and while there's an off setting for beep it must be a different beep. Glad to know it can be turned off on "ours". Was just reading the manual. I've downloaded Sony's Music Center app which is supposed to let me fine tune a lot of things. But the device doesn't ship until Monday, so it'll be a while before I get to try that. However, this is perfect timing as I have the radio bezel, and radio, out so I can do the switch wiring. I'll just swap radios when the time comes to reinstall and it should be good. Bill - Even with all the sound deadening the tire noise comes through, for sure. And, there is the exhaust sound, especially at 1800 RPM. So it isn't as quiet as I'd hoped. But it is what it is and I'm going to enjoy a modern radio.

For $2500 that is a BUY! 4WD Crewcab DRW w/a 460 and a T-19.

Is this the one you found, Staci? Looks good.

Dave - We didn't change the centrifugal advance. What we changed was the initial and the vacuum. We backed the initial timing down from 18 to 14 to kill the kicking back on starting.

When looking at the post you want to delete click More in the upper right and then Delete Post.

Thanks, Jim. That is my thinking as well, that the fidelity should be better even when driving lots of speakers at a fairly high volume due to the noisy Bullnose environment. And hopefully I can get rid of the blasted BEEP when the key is turned off. I can't figure out how to do that on this Sony unit, and it is obnoxious. I've gone through all of the instructions and there doesn't seem to be a way to turn it off.

Well, I just pulled the trigger on a Sony DSX-GS80. Found it on CARiD for $159 instead of the normal $248, so I got Janey's approval and ordered it. Jim, we'll have twins. The key to me, beyond the power that the thing has, is the Bluetooth connectivity. I really get tired of plugging my iPhone in to be able to play music or take calls. This will let me pair both my phone and Janey's so we can take calls w/o worrying about which one to plug in. But, I may be persuaded to go with a subwoofer at some point to fill in a bit of bass, and this thing has the connectivity for it.

The wind drag on that must be significant, with the air catching under the overhang. I think you'll see a noticeable difference on the MPG at 65 vs 75 MPH. But advancing the timing like you've done will also help. However, you said "I've recently increased my timing to 14° from 8° BTDC. My calculations are before timing increase. I tried 18° first, where I had no detonation, but a significant lost power at high rpm." And that worries me. I've never seen a significant loss of power when setting the initial timing in the teens. If anything, it is the opposite. Which makes me wonder if your balancer has slipped. Have you replaced the balancer? If not, do you know if it is indicating accurately? In other words, have you found TDC and checked to see that the balancer is pointing to TDC?

Mark - Wow! 27 radiation treatments? That is scary. I sure pray you get the release tomorrow. But the engine is looking good, and it is going to well worth waiting for. Good luck!

ACEBS. No, E2 does not mean 1972, it means 1982. There is no mention of E2TS 9842528-A in the '96 version of the MPC. It has been replaced by E7TZ 9842528-A, which was used through the end of the catalog, meaning 1989. That one is cheap!

Yes, that casting is listed for 1980 - '86.