Gary Lewis

Well, you've pointed out another change I need to make - remove the wire color designation. In fact, I think I typed something about that somewhere, but I don't remember where. Anyway most, but not all, Ford 3G harnii have a BK/O wire from the alternator. But some are yellow, and the one from Painless is whatever color. But the color doesn't matter. In your case you should use the one from Painless.

John - I'm beginning to think you are right. And I really appreciate your input as you are probably more representative of the "normal" users, meaning those of us who haven't been playing with electrics/electronics for decades. But there have to be two solutions, one for those with an ammeter and one for those w/o. And, since the 2G harness is different, we need to show those separately. However, the end solution for both of those is the same. And, by doing it that way we might not need the separate Voltmeter tab. I think I see a way to make things much less complicated. Stand by...

I take it that's a pic of the ID # from yours. I'll see if I can cross reference that number to a part # when I get to the shop. And we can then make sure what number you are looking for. But Numberdummy said in this thread that ID# crosses to PN E3TZ-18518-B. And, that it is a 1983-only cable. But searching for that number didn't turn up anything. So you may have to resort to going to the salvage as was suggested. However, some on here have had good luck going to a mower shop and having a cable made.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Nice truck. Should be very capable, and I do hope you'll start a thread to document what you do to and with it. What part of Iowa are you in? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city or zip.

Yes, that IS a might big list. You've been busy! Are you getting to drive it, or do you have to wait for the DMV's letter? And do you have more items on the list to do?

Yes, that's a good how-to. But, even with that it is a lot of work. Been there, done that, have the scars. So, good luck!

Yes. Either we switch the positive side or the negative side. If we switch the negative side then we can leave the positive wire alone. Seems like the easiest thing to do.

Well, I'm not sure where to start... First, E3TH-A8D306-AA is not a part number. Did you get that number off the part? Then I hate to break it to you, but since the 1960's any number on a Ford part is not a part number. Instead, it is an ID #. (Yes, it makes no sense, but it is true.) Second, that number doesn't exist in the Master Parts Catalog. I'm not saying it isn't the correct ID #, but Ford didn't put many of the ID #'s in the MPC. Just part #'s. Some times you can find parts by the ID # but usually you need the actual part number. I have a cross reference where I can usually look up a PN from an ID #, and I can look that # up in the morning if you can confirm that it came off your part. But you can find the part number yourself and may be able to find a source for it via a Google search. Go to Documentation/HVAC/HVAC Systems and then click on the Part Numbers tab. The base heat control cable is 18518, so scroll down to that and get the part number. And then go searching for it. But you might want to click on the Illustrations, Pics, etc tab and then click on the type of HVAC system you have and make sure that we are talking about the same cable. They aren't cheap so you don't want to buy the wrong one.

Ok, now I think I understand. Ford just vented the tanks. I'm happy to do that, and will probably do that at the tank rather than run it forward via the vent line and vent there. That way the little bitty 3/16" vent might be big enough to actually work. On the VMV, if I get the code I'll probably put a dummy load on it. Thanks!

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! Glad you joined. But, I don't understand the term OBS. Yes, I know it stands for Old Body Style. But that presumably means anything from 2014 back to 1917. That doesn't provide much information. I highly prefer Bullnose as most Ford people know it means 1980 - 1986. Anyway, you say "this beauty" but no pics? We want to see what you are getting! And if you are picking it up from Northern AZ, where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city or zip code. On the engine, why go Mercedes? Nothing against them at all as my wife has one. But that seems like a lot of work. Maybe you should tell us what you want to do with the truck and let us suggest a driveline combination?

John - We are close to having agreement on what that should look like. All - Please help me think through this. On the 2G conversion I was saying that we can use the choke relay for the HO trucks or another relay for the non-HO trucks. BUT, what I'd forgotten is that the HO relay gives us the positive feed to the voltmeter and a standalone relay can either be the positive feed or the negative feed. So, thinking of the easiest way for people to do this, and the best way for us to explain it, I present two options. On the left is the way to use the HO's choke relay. Note that you have to change both the positive and the negative leads going to the voltmeter. On the right is using a new relay. Note that you do not have to change the positive side going to the voltmeter. You only have to change the negative side. I am wondering if we should recommend that the easiest way through this is to retain the shunt and keep the R/O wire connected to the starter relay to give the voltmeter battery voltage. Then use a relay to ground the voltmeter pulled in with the stator output. In other words, one solution for everyone. No using the LG/R wire to feed the voltmeter for some and a relay for others. No choke relay for the HO people. Just one solution that gives everyone a good solution. Thoughts, please!

I have a 2-second LRC, if I remember correctly, and it solved the squeal problem. I say go for it. And it is a very easy installation.

Amen, brother!

Bill - So, the ECU doesn't know that it isn't controlling the vapor management valve? Its pulses just run off into the bit bucket?

Bill - The steel lines ahead of the wye are 3/16" OD on Big Blue, as I measured them today with the nice Shars calipers on the Fractions setting. So that's why I bought the 3/16" hose. But, as I think about it, the lines after the wye could be larger. As for fumes, I've not had canisters on Big Blue since I got him and the fumes haven't been bad at all, although that may be because I park him in a heated and cooled shop. So perhaps outside there would be more fumes, but then they would disperse more. So, maybe not a problem. But you lost me - when did they go to venting to the atmosphere with a GVWR over 8500 lbs? Big Blue is rated at 8500 but it looks to me like he originally had canisters, plural. Don't know that for sure as they were long gone when I got the truck, but there's certainly the tubing going forward to just below the front of the bed where the two vent lines merge. Would they have done that if they were venting them?

Yes, it is easy enough to use the LG/R wire to pull the relay in, but I'm kind of liking the idea of having the voltmeter die if the alternator dies. That should tell you something, quickly. And yes, I understand that you and I don't think the same, nor do either of us tend to think like many others. But if we can get it down to two options then I can create those schematics. And these are now the two options I'm thinking of: Monitor Cab Voltage: Monitoring Battery Voltage: I'm now seeing two options, one for 351HO's and one for all others. But I'm now thinking they'll essentially be the same - a relay pulled in my the stator output. That makes things easier. As said on the tab for this, I'd really like to have someone tell us what the differences are between battery and in-cab voltages in various scenarios. This might help people make a decision of which approach to take. I think the best way to do that is connect a DVM's positive lead to the battery and the negative lead to the LG/R wire at the alternator. It really wouldn't matter too much if the truck has a 1G, 2G, or 3G alternator. I would do it but I have taken a lot of the load off the cab with the headlight and blower motor relays. So it would be best if someone that hasn't done those upgrades would check. Please?

So you are saying that having the voltmeter go dead if the alternator fails would be similar to a warning light? That does make sense to me. If we were to recommend using a relay to ground the negative side of the voltmeter then it could be either the 351HO's choke relay or a similar relay for non-HO trucks. That would make it easier to put together the package. As for measuring cab voltage, while I agree that the best approach is to measure battery voltage, I do know of plenty of people that don't seem to care. So for them I'm ok to give them a way to do it. So, folks, please give me your thoughts on the relay approach. Run it off the stator output so it might go dead if the alternator fails?

Excellent!!! You chose wisely.

Ahh yes, the gas tank...I know there were changes in 1985 as I'm always reading about guys having trouble finding sending units for the 1985-1986 tanks (they had a larger opening?). I know the 5.0 was available in both carbed and EFI versions in 1985, and then only in EFI in 1986. However, I don't know when exactly the change happened. A lot of people claim that the 5.0 EFI was "optional" in 1985, but I've read other info that goes against that. The early 1985 F-Series brochure has an asterisk with a footnote stating that the 5.0 EFI would be available in November 1984. Another member on here (Vinny) is very knowledgeable with the 5.0 EFI, and he mentioned one time that he has never seen a carbed 5.0 with a build date after January 1985. I know every time I see a carbed 5.0 1985, it has an earlier build date (fall of 1984), so it seems to me that in 1985 the earlier 5.0's were all carbed, and the later ones were all EFI. Still, lots of people say you could pick and choose either or. Maybe Gary knows, and if he doesn't, I betcha Rick does. By the way, the truck is looking great. That was a very cool find imho. Can't wait to see more of it. I don't know, but could probably figure it out from the 1985 Dealer Fact Book. Don't have it on line and I'm in the house - with ice between here and there. Maybe tomorrow?

On the voltmeter wires, I've been working on the tabs for that, as you can see on the Voltmeter tab here. And I believe we should recommend these two approaches: Monitor Cab Voltage: Take the easy way and use the LG/R to power the voltmeter. Granted that will give you variable voltage that won't be quite what the battery is seeing, but it won't be bad either. Monitor Battery Voltage: Use a relay, but don't use the 351HO choke relay, for two reasons. First, as the other Jim pointed out, if the alternator fails the relay won't get pulled in and the voltmeter won't read. In some ways that is good as it'll be more likely to get your attention, but if you really would like to know what the battery's voltage is you are out of luck. And the other reason is that we'd still have to outline another relay approach for the other folks that don't have a 351HO, so why not do one for all? That's what I'm working on, so if y'all disagree please tell me a better approach. And, by the way, the Monitor Battery Voltage tab is using an old schematic that will get updated.

Anything sold in CA from '96 on should be MAF. I know that some of the EEC-IV systems had an OBD-II connector but they weren't functional. So it should have to be an EEC-V system if sold from '96 on, and that means MAF and SEFI.

Man, if I didn't have so many projects! That second one at $21.99 with free shipping is very tempting. I'm pretty sure the output could be made to work with the factory speed control servo, but the problem is getting it to take the strange input from the horn pad switches. And I don't see an easy way to do that.

Jim, you are probably right that we should use the terminology in the shop manual, schematics, etc. However, there's nothing to say we can't do both. So here's a stab at that: LG/R: I for "Ignition" is the official term, but "exciter" is also used in our conversations W/BK: S is for "Stator" and I don't know what else to call it but that O/LB: F is for "Field" Y/WH: A may mean "Alternator", but it is the "sense" wire into the regulator, the wire that lets it determine what the output voltage is BK/O: Our schematics show the output cable from the alternator as BK/O, but as you pointed out, Jim, not all of the harnii that people might get use that color wire. As for what to call it, is it "Charge"?

What, an emoticon quoting Bill? Or the arm rest? Gary, just say, "if that is meant as a compliment, then I thank you"! Good one, David! Dane - While I'd like to do that, I'd have to figure out how to code in HTML to do it, and also get Bill's approval. But it would be cool!

What, an emoticon quoting Bill? Or the arm rest?