Gary Lewis

Nice truck, and a nice price. David - I wouldn't have seen that handle, so thanks for pointing it out. But I showed it to Janey and she said "I'm not having problems getting in, and that doesn't look cool on the outside." So I guess I'm no longer in the market.

Welcome! Glad you joined and that the info is helping. But we have a saying here - pics or it didn't happen. So, how 'bout some pics of your truck to prove you have one? Seriously though, you may want to start a thread in the main section, or in Project (your choice) on the truck. As for the carb, I'm one of the Edelbrock fans. Bought a new Super Bee in 1969 and it came with a Holley. That was my first Holley and it was junk. (Our resident carb expert, Bill/85lebaront2, agrees that those specific carbs had serious problems.) Since then I've not been a fan. Having said that, I know they work for a whole lot of people so it is just my opinion/experience. Anyway, where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can add you if we had a city/state or zip.

Welcome, Tom! Glad you joined. Did I ask if you want to be on our map? It is at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu, and we can add you with a city/state or zip. Good looking truck. Looks a lot like Big Blue's stance, but I think you have bigger tires. Are those 35"? I think you are going to like that engine. It is a great truck engine, and if I didn't expect to tow vehicles with Big Blue it would probably be a good one for him. Great low end torque and better MPG than about anything else you can put in one of these trucks.

Agreed. I really just didn't know what my options were. I've clearly found the right place. I have no qualms about keeping the stock setup if I can get it functioning properly. I have found very affordable rebuild kits for the YFA carb and even just buying another one isn't bad. I may need another header still, I had it off in the Fall and I tried every trick in the book to get that EGR tube out of it, couldn't get it. New ones are only about $175 and it looks like they come pre-plugged, so that could be a decent option. I really don't want to spend that much on this one portion of the truck, so I'll be trying these other suggestions first for sure. My vision for this truck is quitting my day job, getting a trusty old hound, and just driving around the neighborhood with my dog doing handy-man work for my neighbors. Maybe it's just a fantasy, but it sounds pretty sweet to me! Not sure the Mrs. would agree.... -Tom No prob, Tom. But thanks. On the exhaust, if you can't get the tube out I've bent them over and crimped them tightly and it has worked. Not the best, but it worked.

If you mark where the distributor hits the block now and get it right back down there w/o turning the engine you'll be back in time.

Not my cup of tea either, but there's a nice truck lurking under there somewhere. Wonder what it'll go for?

If it was mine I'd pull the distributor and prime it. That way you know for sure that it is lubed. And I'd spray a quick squirt of something like WD40 into each cylinder to give some lube to the cylinder walls. But those are just precautions, not requirements. However, cranking the engine with a wrench won't spin the oil pump fast enough to do anything.

No, there's no section on removing the trim. Or, none I'm aware of. But I can't get to the lower screw w/o pulling the dash cover. And the A-pillar trim tucks under the trim above the door, if you have that, so it needs to be pulled first.

They look great, Bill! And with the low heat from the LEDs should stay that way a long, time.

Yes, good work! No, I don't think you can find the interior trim pieces new. Maybe NOS, but not new plastic. So all of it is brittle. But you can repair it and paint it and probably not see the problem.

Good luck!

Maybe there will be several of us in the dog house.

That's quite a story, Dane. Hard to believe they don't stock the right stator. From the MPC listing below from our page at Documentation/Electrical/Distributors shows it as D4PZ 12A112-A. And I find lots of them via a Google search. But I hope your new one fixes the problem.

That makes more sense, Scott.

The difference in fuse # is just a difference between the large schematics and the EVTM. I think they still point to the same fuse. If the rear sending unit reads 105 ohms then it probably is the wrong one. You can either replace it or add a Meter Match, which will map it to match the Bullnose gauge. But it might be less expensive to just replace the sending unit. On the front tank, if grounding the wire doesn't move the gauge then your selector valve may be bad. You know the wiring from the selector valve is good, so that suggests the valve is bad.

Why not now?

It isn't all that hard. As you said, the window seals will have to be broken out if they are hard, like mine were. but once out the new ones go in pretty easily. On the sweeps, or dew seals as you called them, put the new ones in place by using the stud sticking out to position each one. Then drill holes through the door panels and secure them with pop rivets backed with washers to spread the load. Don't try to staple them 'cause the panels are now much harder than when they were new and they may crack - mine did. I'd do the window seals and sweeps, then do the door gaskets. You'll be pleasantly surprised how much quieter the truck is.

They converted the interior and left the exterior?

I'm willing to bet that's an '86 version. As has been pointed out, by Cory I'm pretty sure, the 85's faded to purple badly, but this one isn't faded so is probably an 86.

Sure looks good.

Torque King is my go-to place. They are the ones that led me through the auto-hub problem on Huck. They explained that it was a question whether one wheel would fall off before the other locked up. And they had the parts to fix it. Anyway, glad you found your parts! The truck is going to be both solid and look great!

Nice, and for a good price.

Looking great! What bed liner are they using?

You are now, quite literally, on the map!

Tom - Welcome! Glad you joined. You probably haven't seen the email I sent you asking you to go to the New Users Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread/topic to introduce yourself. But the main issue is to give you a chance to read the guidelines as we hold everyone to them. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd be happy to add you if we had a city/state or a zip. On what you need in the way of vacuum systems, if you are eliminating the feedback system, meaning replacing the carb and removing all emissions systems, take a look at the page here: Documentation/Under Hood/Vacuum Systems. And if you are doing all that you'll not only need to replace the carb but also the distributor. That's because you should have a EEC-III system with a TFI ignition system on the side of the distributor, and if so it is controlled by the computer. And when you neuter the emissions systems the computer gets its knickers in a twist and locks ignition timing to whatever you have dialed in as initial timing. No advance means poor performance and economy. Also, without EGR you should change the timing curve in the distributor, so you should look for a pre-EGR distributor. Perhaps someone has a suggestion on that.