Gary Lewis

Well, I'm going to say that I'm about half way done with the security system. At this point it is really just a central-locking system as just the door locks and lights are hooked up. But it works! There's a really satisfying CLUNK when you press the lock or unlock button and the doors lock/unlock and the lights flash. And I got the USB charger in the ash tray wired so that it comes on with the key. So here's what is left to wire: Horn: The Ford horn relay pulls 600ma so I'm going to replace it with a Bosch relay and connect to that from the security system. Siren: Going to put the siren under the hood and run the wire to it through the firewall. Engine Kill: I'll put a relay in to ensure the engine can run when the security system is armed. Pin Switches: There will be a pin switch for the hood and one on each tool box lid. The wire to the tool box is already run, but the one for the hood will go through the firewall with the siren's power wire. Door Switches: I have to tap into the door switch wiring to set the system off if someone opens a door when it is armed. Bed Cover: I'm going to tie the "trunk open" and "optional" outputs to the bed cover so I can open or close it with the Code Alarm remote. But that's no big deal as the wires are already run into the cab from the bed, so I just have to hook them up. Then it is essentially done save for the programming, which will take a bit. So maybe two more days? Anyway, if anyone is doing something like this I highly recommend installing the security system where the center speaker would have been. It makes the wiring so much easier since you are working upright and not having to lay on your side or back. And there's gobs of room. In the pic below you can see where the system is and the wiring running to and fro. I'm making the connections on the right side where the open area is and then plugging the connector into the security system. Then I'll zip tie the runs to ensure nothing rattles. It is working out nicely.

Good info on what you've done and what works. On the crawl ratio, :nabble_smiley_oh:yours is 71:1 while mine is 56:1. That's a pretty big difference. And a lot of that is in the t-case. As for additional mod's, you seem to be able to go anywhere you want now, so what's the goal?

I doubt you were asking me, but I vote YES! Put a fuse between the battery and the relay.

Good report, Bob. And I suspect the weight was the problem all along. Jetting shouldn't make much difference in restart, but the weight will.

Those are some really, REALLY high prices.

Man, your Bronco has some articulation! That, and the lack of overhang make a big difference to Big Blue. I'm in awe of the places you and your Bronco can go! I don't have a desire to even attempt some of those places, but it is really cool to see what can be done. And the scenery is glorious. I REALLY want to get out there at some point. Please keep the reports coming, this is so much fun to read/watch.

Not yet, but John/Machspeed said he would do one. However, if you've read the whole of the thread you've seen that he gave the part number of the one he bought and said it came with the residual pressure valve that is needed. So it should be a straight master cylinder R&R with the exception that the lines have to be swapped. And the factory shop manual section on that is at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then the Master Cyl's & Boosters tab, the Factory Shop Manual Sections tab, then the Pedal & Master tab.

You have a good question. I didn't have the bolt part number and, more importantly, their sizes in the part number listings, but do now. Check out the page at Documentation/Cooling Systems/WATER PUMP #'S & ILLUSTRATIONS. (And sorry for the size of the last snippet. I'm still working on that.)

Good luck, with both Inline Tube and the tire shop.

Also, the early Bullnose beds have 8 bolts holding them on and the later beds have 6 bolts. I think the break is 1980-84 and 1985-86. Big Blue's bed only has the 6 bolts but there's a spot stamped in the bed for the other two and the frame has the holes for them. So any Bullnose year bed fits, just be aware you may have to drill a couple of holes.

My neighbor went to his girlfriends families shop. They told him they can straighten it out by using the tire machine. I am guessing the bead breaker function of the machine? What are your thoughts on using a tire machine to fix it? Or should I find a shop with a press? I would personally be hesitant to use the tire machine, but I've never used one. So maybe they know what they are doing and can do it. I'd let them try.

Well, this is getting out of hand. Woke up in the middle of the night thinking about it and when I got up I had to go get the books and think through things. And I've come to two questions I'd like y'all to answer: FSM By Book? Those of you who have physical copies of the FSM know there are three books: A=Body, Chassis, & Electrical; B=Engine; C=Pre-Delivery Lubrication & Maintenance. I'm planning to break ours up that way as well, but want your input. The issue is that the three books together are massive. Book A has 24 sections & 138 sub-sections, with each sub-section being a page on the site and in the menu. B has 9 sections and 30 sub-sections. And C has only 1 section but 21 sub-sections. So unless we break it up by book the menu is going to be extremely long, like 33 entries long, and probably unusable. By Year Or By Subject? We now have everything categorized by year. But if you want to find information on a specific thing from the FSM and you don't know that our one and only, for a while, FSM is in the 1985 section how do you do that? What if instead we did it first by type of literature and then by year, like this: Literature & Manuals: Advertisements 1980 Brochures 1981 Brochures ... 1986 Brochures Brochures 1980 Brochures 1981 Brochures ... 1986 Brochures Factory Service Manuals 1985 FSM Etc

Pull the horn pad and check the ground brush.

Ok guys, let's let this sit for a bit and take comments. Chris - You are right, nothing will satisfy everyone. But if we get a number of the regulars saying they like it then I think we have achieved "good enough". Dane and Scott - Glad it is working on the mobile devices.

Beautiful pics, Bob! I love that country! We've been in Canyonlands, but not on Potash Road. And we've been near that area several times from several different directions, including a float trip on the Green. Anyway, I hope we can make it out there in the not too distant future. Your "travel guides" will prove very helpful, so please keep them coming!

Andre - Nice Ranchero! I've put the Haynes instructions on the right and the factory shop manual instructions on the left, below, to compare them. And basically the only difference I see is that the FSM says to torque to 50 ft-lbs and Haynes says 150 ft-lbs. I'll stick with what Ford says.

Every once in a while a NOS one is advertised, but for the most part you are going to need to find a used one. Advertising on here may help. Post in the Marketplace/Want To Buy folder.

Well, the small, dark workspace job is done. Anyway, go check out the menu under Literature & Manuals now. I think everything but the EVTM's is in there, and I'm not quite ready to do that yet as I'm still thinking about that. But I moved the Engine/Emissions Diagnosis manuals in there as well as the '85 FSM. And, I un-hid all of the many pages of documentation that were previously available only via the Index table or the annual pages that have icons that tie to them.

In my case the column was grounded but the ground brush under the horn pad wasn't in correctly. So the horn circuit wasn't working properly. But if you can get it to work with a jumper then that's all you need.

Got a bit done today, part of which I was dreading. I ran the wires from the bed that I'd pulled into the driver's side cab corner under the threshold, under the kick panel, and up to the security system. But along the way I dropped out the red power wire at the fuse box and then wired it into the box. That was the part I was dreading - working in the fuse box. What I wanted to do, and finally did, was to pull the 4/8/12/16 always-hot bus, which I'd already tapped into for Fuse 13, and tapped into it for Fuse 10, which is power for the bed. But boy, getting all 4 retainers released at the same time to get that bus out is a PAIN! Anyway, I got it out, crimped the wire from #10 to it and then soldered it in. Put the fuse box back together, repopulated it with fuses, and reconnected the battery. It worked! In fact, the cover appears to run faster, probably 'cause there's no small wire in its feed now. So Thursday I'll start wiring the security system. (Tomorrow we are helping with a funeral at church.) Here's how the fuse box is wired:

Do you have speed control? If so, then I had the same problem. IIRC the ground under the horn pad wasn't working and the horn relay was getting its ground from the speed control. But when the key was turned on the speed control module got power and was no longer enough ground to pull in the relay.

The small work area is all buttoned up. As for the manuals, the fact that it now says "& Manuals" should clue them in. And if they click on the Index page they'll be greeted with a by-year breakdown. Ok, I'm good with that. I'll do more editing in a bit and we'll see how we like it.

Glad you figured it out. As for the thread, you can put it wherever you want. I put mine in the main section, but some put theirs in Projects. However, this forum is a bit unusual as you have to subscribe to get email notifications that someone has posted in a thread. So my thinking is that the most people will see a post in the main section than in Project. Still, that's your call. And, the moderators can move it later if you want.

They'll look good, Jochen.

Scott - What you say makes sense. The only concern I have is that people will know to look in 1985 for that FSM, or 1986 for that Engine/Emission Diagnosis manual. As for the EVTM, we wouldn't have to put it in Literature & Documents. Just leave it in Electrical. Or, we could put two of them in. Doesn't cost any more. Now, back to my work in a small area with little light and hot tools...