Gary Lewis

Dane is right. You can see the wire of which he speaks on the left as Circuit 55. But it is Circuit 53 that is used to bring the dome light on when the doors open. So 55 is just used to bring it on via the headlight switch. That wire, as well as #54 & 53, run down the "gutter" under the threshold, but they are usually wrapped together with tape so you might have to remove the tape to find the problem. And for ease of discussion, here's the relevant page:

Thanks, David.

Snuck in on me... Not planning on towing anything heavier than a midsize truck/SUV, and only sparingly (project vehicle purchases, etc.). The trailer is grossly overkill for the truck... as is the hitch. But I'll take overkill; as long as I respect the F150's limits, it's all good. Did you say that trailer has a GVWR of 7000 #'s? If so, it isn't overkill. In fact, if you aren't careful you'll overload it. When I was shopping for trailers I found that most of the trailers were sitting on 3500 # axles giving the trailer the 7000 # GVWR. But then I realized that the trailer itself weighs north of 2000 #, so you are left with less than 5000 # for the vehicle. And lots of vehicles weigh more than that. And then comes the loading. Remember that the axle, and usually the tires, is rated for 3500 #'s. So if you put a 5000 # vehicle on the trailer you'll be at the limit if the weight is evenly distributed. But you do NOT want the weight evenly distributed as you need ~10% of the weight on the tongue to prevent sway. So you'll need to have the vehicle forward on the trailer and it will be easy to overload the front axle if you aren't careful.

Wow!

I haven't seen "mod-con" since I left the UK. I well remember the adverts saying "and all mod-cons". So has that come into the US lexicon and I missed it? Or are you a Brit?

David - Missed your reply as well. Sorry. So it is fiddly but works? Acceptably?

Sorry, Dane. I missed this. Strange that your Safari does that but mine doesn't. But yours is usable?

You are on a ROLL! Both Amazon and Inline Tube sends you the right stuff, eventually.

I'm not in a big hurry on this and am kind of testing the waters. But many times I've wanted to know what to find a given connector and the page I was on in the EVTM didn't have it listed. Or I wanted to know what other circuits were in it. So I'm going to dabble with it a bit and see what I can come up with.

Yes, it might help to loosen the bolts holding the engine's mounts to the perches on the frame. But 1/4" isn't much to move it as the rubber mounts will accommodate that. Otherwise, you are making really good progress. But that is UGLY water left over from cleaning that carpet! That's not much rust, but what are you treating it with?

I see two pics, as shown below, but it is a nice looking truck and $2200 is a nice price.

I think you are peeling this onion pretty quickly. Yep, aftermarket fuel tank and switch. Yep, old tires way out of balance. What's next?

Have you checked out TSB 91-6-7 STERLING 10.25 HUB LEAKS?

Well said!

Excellent! Glad you figured that much out. It is one layer at a time peeling these onions, but pretty soon you'll have enough to have a Bloomin' Onion!

Thanks. I couldn't resist installing pin switches on the toolbox. I was already running wires 'twixt the cab and the bed, so adding an extra was no biggee. And the pin switches I ordered came as a set of three - one for the hood and two for the toolbox. Perfect! On the speedo, this is a brand new cable, both inner and outer. And it isn't kinked nor does it have a tight turn. So I don't understand why the speedo jumps the way it does, especially since it was smooth when I ran it on my lathe. All I can assume is that the cable is chattering in the sheath. And the way it slides in and out so easily suggests that is possible, like it is too small. If so, the wheel bearing grease should make a big difference. I hope.

Well, the security system is D.O.N.E. Done & dusted as the Brit's would say. I got the pin switches installed on the toolbox as shown below, and then went through the setup on the shock and tilt sensors. Now a hard slap on the cab with the palm of your hand gets a series of warning beeps & flashes, and a stronger impact triggers the full alarm. And bouncing on the rear bumper causes the tilt function to trigger. Tomorrow I want to take it out on a short jaunt to ensure everything is ready for its trip to Kansas on Saturday, during which the A/C system is to be made functional. I've had a whole lot of things apart for the security system installation so want to check it out before heading out of town. One thing I want to test, which is something that Bill hasn't noticed, is the Taurus speed control module that I installed. I was already "in there" to put the Bosch relay in for the horn so thought I'd swap that module in and I was sure he'd pick up on that red module peeking out in the pic a few posts back. Also, I've been having a whole lot of speedometer bouncing, especially at low speeds, so while I had the instruments out to tap into the tach circuit I took the opportunity to re-lube the speedo cable. It was still coated with the graphite and Teflon I sprayed it with, but it sure came out of the casing easily - like it was too small for the casing. So I lubed it with Mobil synthetic wheel bearing grease, and while it did slide in nicely it had some resistance. Hopefully that will dampen things and the speedo will smooth out. Beyond that I plan to put together a binder with schematics, owner's manuals, etc for what I've done to the truck. I'm hoping it can slide under the driver's seat and be available should I need to refer back to how things are wired. And I'm going to try to make a printout of the fuse uses and attach it to the fuse box cover. We shall see.

Yes, and yes. Yes that's the part number of the pulley according to Ford's cross reference book. And yes the 429 has a long and strange snout as well as flywheel flange. Trent is wanting to use the Eaton tranny that he got with it but has discovered that it requires that crank, which means the other end will have the one-piece balancer/pulley combo. He's asked me questions about how to sort through all of this and I've suggested he join here and ask questions. I don't know but others may.

My FB friend Trent Alexander has purchased some medium-duty parts and found that a 3G alternator for a 1994 F700 w/a 7.0L engine will have a double-groove/sheave pulley and both are the same size. The ID # on the pulley is F1HU-AB, which is shorthand for F1HU 10A352-AB and that crossref's to F1HZ 10344-A as a part #. And he sent these pics:

Unfortunately just because a connector is shown being used on a page in the EVTM doesn't always mean that it is listed on that page in that table. I can't give you an example, but I've had it happen many, many times where I couldn't find the connector I was looking for in a table on the appropriate page, only to find it elsewhere. Which is one reason I have the '85 EVTM in one PDF - I can search it for all uses of a given term. Anyway, that's why I think the all-up table would be good as you'd have one place to go to find all the info on any one connector. So now I'm thinking the info would include the color of the connector, the # of pins, the approximate location, the pages on which it is shown in the circuits, and the pages & figures in which it is depicted.

Last, ? for the moment: I've put up a test page called, oddly enough, Electrical Connectors. It is currently last in the menu. And in it I've added the illustrations for 18 of the connectors as well as a spreadsheet that shows what I was thinking would be the info we want. However, in light of Scott's question and the subsequent thinking through of the implications thereof I've changed my thinking to include the information about where the connectors are used and where they show in a "figure". Having said that, I need some help. In that spreadsheet you can see that there are three connectors that plug into the fuse box and support add-on functions, like power door locks and windows. These are C-416, C-424, and C-445. HOWEVER, as shown below, in the EVTM they carry the #'s C1961, C1960, and C1962 respectively. HELP! What am I missing? Is this a case of two different sets of numbers for the same connector, one for the EVTM and one for the wiring diagrams? (I haven't been able to find, yet, those connectors in the wiring diagrams.)

Next question(s): What if we were to have the information above in a table we could edit and we added the page #'s in the EVTM where the connector is used? But, if you like that idea, then which EVTM? I'm working off the 1985 version, but were there connectors added for '86? I know the page #'s will change between the years, so is this really helpful?

I have MULTIPLE questions so will post at least two times with the questions. First, I'm not sure what you mean by "diagram numbers", Scott. I think "diagram" is the same as "page" & "figure"? If so, then is something like this what you mean? The downside of this, apart from being difficult to get into a spreadsheet, is that it doesn't give the page # where the connector is used or shown in the wiring. I know you know this, but for others the "figure" mentioned is an illustration of where the connector actually is.

Thanks, Dane! Another milestone. Janey asked me today what's next. And after the air conditioning on Saturday it'll be the air compressor and tank. But with the A/C working I think we'll go drive the GOAT and then tackle the compressed air system. Since we now have a bed cover and security system we feel fairly safe taking it places.

Thanks, Scott. I was pleased with how it turned out, and I highly recommend doing the wiring under the right side of the dash cover. Sure made it easier than upside down. And for completeness, here's a link to the thread on Installing A Code Alarm ca1155e Security System.