Gary Lewis

Yes, it certainly is!!!

It is all in the way we phrase the question. Just make sure that a lack of response means "do it!"

You are now, quite literally, on the map.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and we can add you with a city/state or zip. Who knows, you might be close to one of us. Anyway, I've not seen that color combo before, but I don't have any records to tell how many were made. For that you'd need a Marti report.

To make your own you'd need the line and the flaring tool. I'm not very familiar with doing that, but I think the guys are saying the nickel/copper line is the way to go as it bends and flares easily. As for the hose, you could put something like Thermashield Wrap over it. I'm using that on my dip stick and fuel lines and it really works.

On that filter, I don't know which way it is really supposed to go, but my guess is that it doesn't matter. As for the line, you can use rubber hose. But it is a potential leak and, therefore, a fire hazard. So make sure to have good connections and run the hose where it won't chafe or get burned.

Ty - I see what you mean about "vapor lock", and I suppose it could happen the way you described as at the inlet to the pump it us under atmospheric pressures. But do you have any reason to think the fuel is getting that hot in the return? Is it running close to the exhaust? Could you insulate it? On the other hand, you said "I run near 60psig when the key is primed and just about 50psig while operating." The 50 # seems low. But in reading through the Holley Sniper Quickstart Manual I don't see a number for the pressure when running. I see that the regulator is set to 58.5 at the factory, and that for initial startup "Fuel pressure has been verified at the Sniper EFI throttle body and is between 55 & 65 psi". So maybe 50 psi when operating is ok. Anyway, I think I'd call Holley and find out what they say. Something is obviously wrong.

I missed this, sorry. But glad you got it figured out. The electrons probably don't care what color the insulation is.

Here's the one on Big Blue's 1990 plenum on the left and the one you originally posted on the right. They aren't they the same! They mount differently for one thing. So things changed in 1990 apparently.

Thanks, Bob. I appreciate the input. If 15 psi is a good starting point it may be the ending point as well since I'm not sure how hard we are going to push things. So if the ride is reasonable and the traction is adequate we may just stay with the original setting. Which then brings up the question of what I should air back up to for short highway trips? As you know, but for the other's sake, many of the Jeep roads around Ouray begin and/or end off CO 550, aka The Million Dollar Highway. So it isn't unusual to take a trail and then have to get back on the highway for a stretch before getting to the next trail. And since the highway is full of curves, some of which are very tight, how much air do I need? I normally run at 35 psi, and had planned to take the tires back to that. But obviously it'll be faster if I don't go back quite that high. Might 30 be adequate for a few miles if we take it easy on the turns?

That's not a bad price on a NOS recirculate door vacuum motor. As I'm sure you know, the MPC says: 80/ F-U100/350 — integral A/C or Hi-Low vent E0TZ 18A318-A *YH-362-recirc.-F/A door-located on evaporator - 1 port And the "80/" means "1980 to the end of the catalog" which is 1989. But it was used later 'cause it is the same for Big Blue, which has a 1990 HVAC system.

Ty - That's pretty good mileage, but the problems with the fuel system sound like a real pain. But I'm with the others in thinking it really isn't vapor lock. From what I understand the Sniper should be running right at 60 psi and I really doubt it could vapor lock for the reasons Rusty pointed out. Are you sure the pump's pickup is at the bottom of the tank? If not it could be sucking air as the fuel moves around in the tank, as Rusty pointed out about baffling.

Thanks, Bob! I'm sure I'm going to like them. And I'm really pleased with the price. Do you think 15 psi is a good starting point for the DISCOVERER S/T MAXX - LT285/75R16 tires? They are a Load Range E, so are pretty stiff in and of themselves.

That's cool, David. Good find.

Today I ordered the Coyote deflators: CED456, SET OF FOUR COYOTE AUTOMATIC TIRE DEFLATORS – RANGE 1 to 65 PSI. On Amazon it doesn't show a price and when you click "Show All Vendors" it says $144. So I searched for them and on the Coyote site it has them for $66.39 instead of $79.99 and shipping was only $4.75. Not only that, these are the ones where you tell them what pressure you want them set to and they come that way from the factory. I asked for them to be set to 15 psi.

Thanks, Jim. I'm really pleased with the results. It makes a huge difference in the way the truck sounds. I really didn't realize how much clatter there was.

Well, apparently y'all agree with me. So I ordered the My Medic Compact First Aid Kit - Survival + Camping + Backpacking + Auto Premium First Aid Kit - Basic - Red from Walmart 'cause they want $110 instead of the $120 from Amazon.

Well, that was written on June 19th and today, July 28th, I drove the truck for the first time since installing the clips and sliders. But since I'd made several changes to the truck I didn't think about the springs initially. However, I was thinking "This thing has a whole lot fewer rattles than I remember!" And then it dawned on me that I'd made the above changes to the springs - and they WORK! Man, did it make a difference. No more rattles going down the road.

Well, you can tell the grandtwins have been here as it has been over three weeks since I updated this thread, and I found it back on Page 3. Anyway, we took the truck to Fairfax to get our Real ID today, and I have four things to report. But first, Jim, is it progress if it is one step forward and three back? And then a funny from the Real ID experience - I'm deceased. Yep, the lady put all of my info into the computer and up popped a yellow warning that said "Fraud Alert: This person is deceased." But she wrote the state and assured them that I was sitting right there beside her and was as alive as she is, so they reset something and we processed it again successfully. As for the step forward, I was driving along thinking "This thing has a whole lot fewer rattles than I remember!" And then it hit me - there's no rattle coming from the front springs. Man, what a difference that made! Apparently I haven't driven the truck since June 19th when I added the clamps and sliders to the front and rear of the front springs, but they sure helped. And now for the first of the steps backward - the bed cover won't close. I opened it just fine, but it is hitting something solid when it starts to move, so I have to take that apart. Again. The second step backward is that the A/C is no longer cold. I've asked my nephew what the pressures should be in the mid-90's ambient and if I have to put some in if I should add some with a dye. We shall see. But, I can say that the air was cooler in the Max A/C position, so my heater shut off valve may be working. Last, DON'T PUT PROTECTANT ON THE RUBBER STEERING WHEEL RIM! While it seemed to work initially it is now sticky. So, what do I do next? Use alcohol to strip it off? What, if anything, do I put back?

Well done! And yes, regular maintenance pays off.

Yes, Jim, I'm afraid for your sake that we do think alike. At least on some points. Mack - To pull codes follow the instructions on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Electronic Engine Control (EEC) and then click on the EEC-IV tab and then the Code Checking tab.

Yes, you can run for a couple of minutes on a cold start w/o the water pump. But keep it as brief as you can.

These EFI systems are pretty finicky about needing all of the systems working or it goes into limp-home mode. In that mode the ignition timing is locked and you have just enough power to drive the truck. My guess is that you have something wrong and the computer has its knickers in a twist. Have you tried pulling the codes?

Well, I've been trying to compare several of the first aid kits and I'm finding that this is fruitless. Wow, what an apt statement as it is like comparing apples to oranges as described by people speaking different languages! Every vendor uses different terminology to describe what's in their kit, and some of them, like Survivewear, give a very generic description. But, I think I've gone far enough for me. I cannot see $130 difference between the Basic and Advanced MyFAK's. But, I do see quite a bit of difference between the Basic and the Adventure Kits Sportsman FAK. So at this point in time I'm leaning towards the My Medic MyFAK Basic kit. Then I'll add some of the things we've discussed, like fingernail clippers. And things I see from the other kits, like Q-Tips and safety pins. Thoughts?

I'd leave it alone. It isn't under stress so won't strip out or come loose. And if you loosen it the gasket maker might not seal.