Gary Lewis

Good point, David. Another issue could be that the system is limp-home mode. If the computer senses that something isn't right it'll lock the timing and there will be no advance of any kind. I'd pull the codes and see what is ailing it.

I hope you achieve that smooth progression. But IIRC, Ford says that 22 ohms should give a center reading on the gauges. IOW, the 10 to 72 ohms apparently isn't linear.

Maybe not. My Fuel gauge also drops fast to 1/4, hangs in that range for a very, very long time, then when it hits E you better fill up fast (as below E, you tend to run out of gas in drive thru lines ). Sounds like with meter match you got a realistic experience if not an ideal one . With my Meter Match you'll be so close to E by 100 miles that a quick glance says it is time to switch to the other tank. But on closer inspection there is still a bit of white showing. And if you are on the highway it'll go another 90 miles as the tank holds 19 gallons and it gets 10+ MPG. So if you like driving on E for ~50% of your miles then it is ideal. That's not my idea of a realistic experience.

Man, that is a BIG pipe! But it has a catalytic converter in it? Or, what is in it? As for the O2 sensor hole, it should be 18 x 15mm from what I've read. And one guy said that he found a Toyota truck oil pan drain plug that fit at the parts store. Don't know about the smog pump hole. Do you have the old fitting? Can you cut the tube, bend it over tightly, and install it to close the hole? I did that on one truck and it ran for years with no leaks.

I have something similar. The ignition is disabled on mine when the alarm is set. It'll crank. Or you can try to bump-start it. But it isn't going to run. Much better than a starter disable feature, especially on a manual transmission.

Any updates to this, John? How's the AirTag working out?

(If there's a thread this should be part of please let me know. I thought there was but can't find it.) As some of you know, I've come to the realization that I need a "camera system" for Big Blue. And by "system" I mean both a rear view as well as a front view camera. The rear is obvious, but the front requirement came up on the trip to Ouray as we crested many a ridge where we could NOT see where the trail went ahead of us. So I'm doing my due diligence and want your thoughts as well. Today I called Crutchfield and told them I want a rear view mirror with at least two inputs. Nate, the advisor, suggested the Voxx RVM740SM, which has a dedicated backup camera input as well as a pair of other inputs. So I've read up on it, including the Quick Start manual, but have gone back to Crutchfield with several more questions. The system has a lot more bells and whistles than I need, including the ability to bluetooth to a phone for hands free, and to connect to the radio via FM so it can use the vehicle's speakers. In fact, it can have a GPS antenna and it has some form of navigation in it. But it runs Android and I have an iPhone so I'm not sure how they'd interface. But the main thing I'm interested in is its ability to show the feed from several cameras. According to the manual it can use the backup light circuit to show the rear view, and can use the turn signal output to bring up the side views if you had cameras mounted on the mirrors. So I was thinking I could use something like the hazards to bring on the front camera and not have to add a switch. Anyway, what are your thoughts? Do you have other suggestions?

Ok, thanks. I may play with it more.

Good point, Shaun. Thanks.

Jim - Have you done that? I used one of the intermediate set points and it didn't help. Maybe I need to try your approach?

I like it! And I seriously considered that approach myself. I had all of the parts laying on the bench, and the only thing that stopped me was the realization that when something in it fails after I'm no longer able to make the repair my offspring would have problems. Had they been the type that would take it in stride I've have done it, but as they aren't I didn't. As for the Arduino solution, I've not done that - yet. Instead I used a Meter Match to interface the later sender to the Bullnose gauge. And I'm here to tell you that the Meter Match works, but isn't ideal. My gauge falls rapidly and then slows down as you get close to empty. It isn't ideal at all, but it works. Your solution should give much better readout and will be something that can be repaired down the road. So I really like it.

That is wonderful, Jonathan! Prayers answered! As for analytical quantitative chemistry, I've run a gas chromatograph or two. Does that qualify?

1980 - 84 trucks.

I'm glad you got it figured out and found the needed crossmembers! Well done! As for the senders, I'll be anxious to see how you resolve this. I've done something similar, but it has its own problems as well, so am curious to see how you do it.

Well, it has been quite a while since I've posted in here, partially because there haven't been any "big" additions to the documentation. But today there was a large one - John/JohhnyD's how-to on going from slide to pin-style locks. Go to Documentation/Interior/Doors/Door Locks and then the Change From Slide To Pin Style Locks tab. Thanks, John! Well done! And for those who might question why we have a page on this in addition to a thread on it, that's because over time the thread will drop off the first page and then go on farther and farther into the background. Yes, it can be found if you know the proper terms for searching, but you may have to try several times. But since it'll be on the Door Lock page you won't have to search for it. Go to a logical place for it and there it'll be. Besides, we can format better on the website than we can in the forum.

Sweet!!!!

I agree that it does look "old". But so do the Aeronose, Bricknose, Bullnose, Dents, Bumps, etc. Maybe if it was LOBS (Last of the Old Body Style) then I could understand. But to say a certain range of just a few years is an "old body style" makes no sense. Anyway, thanks for the daffynition, Rick.

On the seat, our page at Documentation/Interior/Seats says "there are two different floor pans - regular cab and crew cab trucks share one, and Broncos and Supercabs share the other". So a seat from a regular cab fits a crew cab, and vice versa. But one from a Supercab won't fit either of those. As for OBS, J.D. Power says "Old body style, or OBS, is a term used in reference to the much-revered pickup trucks produced before the controversial redesigns of the early 2000s." That really helps. So a '65 or even a '32 is an OBS? I guess my point is that it is a silly sobriquet.

Good luck, Jonathan!!!!!! You can do this!! Is this the “better job & better benefits “ position I’ve been praying for?

Nice looking. The horn pad is worth quite a bit by itself.

That's the kind of seat I thought about for Big Blue. But that one is expensive, and there's no where near enough info to know if it'll fit. Just saying '92-97 OBS doesn't tell if it is from a regular cab, extended cab, or crew cab. And what is an "OBS" anyway? To me the term "old body style" is meaningless. Will my 2015 be an OBS when Ford changes the body style? Is a '65 F100 an OBS? Brandon/Bruno2 sent me an invitation from an OBS Facebook page recently. I went there and it asked if I like OBS trucks. Told them I don't know as the term is meaningless and asked the questions above. Haven't heard back from them.

Yes, it is cool! Would be a good thing to hang on the wall of a man cave.

That looks to be an '83 or later 'gate as it has the cables not straps. As our page on Documentation/Exterior/Beds, Tailgates, & Components shows you can easily put a later 'gate on an earlier bed. (But not the other way 'round.)

Nice. Shame about the one dent. Still expensive though.

Those are nice as well. Same seller, same price, same description.