Gary Lewis

Yes! When we were moved to the S1 servers on Nabble they couldn’t get things working correctly so we could log on to the embedded site. So after I complained LOUDLY they turned httpS on and that solved the problem. Now we are awaiting Pedro figuring out how to get us a certificate for the AWS servers and we’ll be ready to move.

If you don't have that ground that may be the problem. I just checked the 1980 EVTM and it shows G701 used pretty much as it is in the later trucks. But instead of the EVTM saying it is on the firewall ahead of the radio it says it is "In harness attached to "Y" brace." So you are supposed to have a G701. And it is supposed to be grounded. As for when the change was made from it being attached to the "Y" brace vs the firewall, apparently that was during the 1981 production as the '81 EVTM says it is on the firewall.

Just back from a trip to Michigan to see the trees turning. And I think there's a minor edit needed for that passage: "Do not lay up for yourselves treasures in Michigan, where rust destroys even new vehicles, much less the old..."

I'm not ready to buy a Hummer either, but was blown away with what it can already do. As for battery tech, I had a Stihl trimmer and a Stihl blower. And I've had to have them worked on several times. The trimmer finally would NOT start, and after conversing with my brother I bought a Ryobi 40V trimmer. LOVE IT! No oil, no gas, plenty of power, and lots less noise. Starts every time I pull the trigger, and one charge does the whole yard. The day the blower won't start is the day I get a 2nd battery - along with a Ryobi blower. Yes, battery tech has really evolved, and will continue to do so. But no, I'm not ready to replace Big Blue with an electric vehicle. I still like that V8 rumble.

I would think that but I have all the factory grounds in place and they were cleaned of paint before I put them in place when rebuilding the truck. Battery cable to frame rail then to top starter bolt. there is a 10 ga wire from the block to the fire wall. Think I put the wire from the fire wall to the hood like factory and the new battery cable had a wire off it I ran to the fender just in case. Every thing on the truck electrical wise works as it should from day 1. Being a flare side and a early model it dose not have a ground wire for the tail lights up to the fire wall like the later ones do so the tail lights ground to the frame and have also worked since day 1, even the back up lights. The compressor has its own ground I think to the motor, have to look as I dont remember now but the clutch has 2 wires, power & ground. It has a new clutch as the old one stopped working and the gap is set right as per the book. I will have to see if turning on & off the AC makes the dash lights dimly blink / flash now that I know 1 of the causes. Also being I now know I may not rush in to this farther, put off what you can till it breaks I just thought of something when filling in something above. All my dash lights have been replaced with LED bulbs, wonder if that plays into this? No I am not going to swap in normal bulbs to test, to much work and I am lazy Dave ---- Dave - Have you checked the ground for the things in the cab? It is G701 and is on the inside of the firewall directly ahead of the radio. If that isn't good then things in the cab can flicker.

I think this is the post to which you are referring, Cory. But it doesn't outline what the threads are. Just new, old, Bullnose, or OBS. I wonder if the Lee pump uses the same bungs?

Ok, thanks guys. Sounds like we have a plan. Now we just need to have a security certificate so we can execute said plan.

I know this isn't a Ford. But I thought y'all would want to read this article and watch the video about the new Hummer electric truck. Yes, there's a whole lot to go wrong, but when it is working it makes Big Blue look like a Model A. It is just mind boggling! https://expeditionportal.com/2022-hummer-ev-electric-super-truck-first-off-road-drive/

That's good to know, Dane. I'll pass it on. Thanks.

That is cool, but at $102.50 and rising it isn't THAT cool. But think of how far drink holders have come in our lifetime. Up until maybe our trucks there weren't any drink holders, and ours don't really qualify for that. Mercedes refused to put drink holders in their vehicles until the M-Class came along, and it was designed in California so got them. My brother said on our trip to CO that the console I added to Big Blue was one of the best mod's. It really worked well for us.

Hmmm? A friend of our daughter, Holly, wants to buy her husband a 90's Bronco for his birthday, so I'm the consultant. Never realized how much fun it is to spend other people's money.

I like the bed liner or flex seal idea! That will shield the POR from UV as well as provide even more leak stoppage.

Yes, very expensive at $125. My understanding is that the same boot was used for both the 4-speed overdrive transmissions from 1980 - 83, as well as all transfer cases from 1980 - 86. At least that's the way I read the snippet from the catalog, below, which is from our page on Documentation/Interior/Boots. Perhaps Shaun can tell me if I'm wrong?

That's cool! I think Scott should have it.

Yes, I'd bet that is Nutmeg, which was used in 1981 and 82 only. But, it might be Caramel, which was used only in 1980. I don't know how close those two colors are to each other, and the lighting conditions when the pics were taken can certainly shift colors a bunch. The only other color it might have been is Chestnut, but that was an '86 color and since the other things you listed are probably from the same truck it had to have been a 1980 - 84 truck. So it isn't Chestnut.

Wow! What a nice build! That Bronco is "right". Well done. I'm not in love with the color, but it is a really nice truck. However, $100K is a chunk of change. So it is for weekend drives and not taking off the road.

Thanks, David. Bill - Yes, if a set had been moved it needed to be adjusted. There was height, width, and pin cushioning, IIRC.

That's cool! Yes, it would look good. Not sure where I'd put it, but I'll bet I can find a place. But, there's only one bid on it.

That's the Dana cruise control. Nice unit 'cause it has adjustments for how close it is to hold the speed to the set point, which determines how aggressive it is. I had one and loved it. But a $74 starting bid is a bit steep.

Didn’t the central place for each of the networks send it and then the local stations used it for alignment?

Ok, I've found a scrolling banner that seems to work. I put it at the top of the forum page briefly to see what it would look like, and the screenshot below shows that. Each page or thread of the forum would have that at the top and/or the bottom of the page for a few days ahead of the migration just so everyone knows what is going on. And if you want to see what it looks like in reality go to Bullnose Forum/Test Forum and you can see the banner in action. Hover over it and the scrolling stops. Click on the arrows to go to the right or left. And I also put in the RCA Indian-head test pattern on that page. Many of us old timers saw that before or after a TV station's programming was on the air - back in the black and white era. I'll put it in place of the forum for the time that we are down as otherwise the page will come up but there won't be a forum on it.

Harness looks good! As Dan asked, please let us know how easy it is to install.

Yep, it is just cast in but not open. My first thought was "where will the IAC go?" But comparing it to the one off Huck the IAC must go elsewhere - although I don't remember exactly where.

It looks like we will get to move to the AWS servers in the next few weeks. So I'm thinking through what the process is, when to do it, how to alert people that it is going to happen, etc. And I'd love your input.First, the process looks to be something like this:Lock Forum: I have to lock the forum to ensure no one posts while we are doing the migration or their post(s) will be lost Take Backup: I click a link to start a backup being generated, and this usually takes ~30 minutes Download Backup: An email will be sent to me to let me download the backup, and that can take 1 - 2 hours depending on network traffic. Upload Backup: Then I have to upload the backup to the AWS servers, and this takes 2 - 4 hours as my upload speed isn't nearly as fast as my download speed. Meanwhile I'll be redirecting the garysgaragemahal.com URL to the AWS servers, modifying some macros, and doing other minor housekeeping to have us ready to go. So that says we could be down 6 hours or so. I'm wondering what day and hours would be best to do that. Maybe starting at 6:00 PM on a Sunday night here in Okiehoma? That would make it 4:00 PM for those on the West Coast, midnight or later for those in the UK or Europe, and Monday morning for those in New Zealand or Australia. What do y'all think? Is that a reasonable day and time to be down? Is there a better one? And what's the best way to let people know we will be down? Wait! I just had an idea. I could put a banner on the web page that the forum is on a few days before the move and explain in the banner when we will be down. Then, while we are down I can put this in place of the forum:

The pic is upside down 'cause you turned the camera over. Cameras encode the orientation in the metadata in the picture's file. Smart devices read that data and reorient the pic before displaying it. Our forum isn't smart and doesn't read the data. You have to reorient the pic before posting by using an app. Anyway, I'd want to use the POR-15 paint everywhere I could and only use the putty where needed. That's because the paint will run into cracks and crevices and seal them, but I don't think the putty will. The paint sticks so well that if you put the lid back on the can w/o using something like wax paper or Saran Wrap to keep any paint in the groove from hitting both the can and the lid you'll never get the lid back off. DAHIK. And since the paint is rather thick it won't run through little pin holes. So I'd just use the putty where you are sure the paint will run through and then let the paint fill and seal the little holes and cracks. Also, once POR-15 cures it is HARD and the only way to get another coat to adhere is to sand it. You don't want to have to do that down in the cracks and crevices of the cowl. So paint everything with one coat, go back and hit it with another coat while it is still tacky to ensure full coverage, and then coat that with the top coat while everything is still tacky. I usually use a brush for the POR-15 coats and then use a spray can for the top coat as when everything is sticky it is no fun brushing another coat on. But down in the cowl it may be hard to spray so you'll have to decide what to do there.