Gary Lewis

Looking at our page on Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Steering/Coupling (Rag Joint) on the Illustrations tab I see that the upper shaft is base PN 3B676 and the coupling is base PN 3A525. However, there's a note that the coupling is part of 3B676 after 2/81. So you are just looking at 3B676, and they show two different ones, one for P/S and one for M/S. Does that answer the question?

My bad. Sorry. But see if this section from the '95 FSM helps:

The spec's are in the factory shop manual section at Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Alignment. Scroll down to the bottom of Page 6 and you'll see the info on the 4x4 F250 & 350 in the lower right. But there are several things to tell you. First, this is from the 1985 FSM and I suspect the info is for TTB rather than a solid axle. And I'm not sure how to figure that out. However, I have a '95 FSM that I will check tomorrow and see what it says, and I know it is for a solid axle. Second, while the camber angle is shown from -1 to +3, that depends on the angle of the frame. So don't miss this verbiage on Page 5: Oh, wait! The axle in Big Blue is a '95 D60 and I had it aligned. Here's a pic of the spec's they were working to, but I think I found later those spec's weren't quite right. Let me check the '95 FSM tomorrow.

That looks like stuff you can do this winter. Gonna be driving it next spring?

Well, I was going to put this in the WHYDTYTT thread as it was initially just how we used Big Blue today. And then when we got home and I started to close the rear window. As I grabbed the hinge to pull the driver's side slider to the middle the metal strip came off in my hand. So now the question is what's the best way to re-attach that strip to the glass? Can I use JB Weld? Seam sealer? What? And now for what we did. Janey asked if there wasn't some where we needed to go today just to get out of the house. So we talked about several locations and she said "Why not take Big Blue?" So, we did. We went to Bartlesville. Took the back roads up and drove 55 MPH. Found a couple of quilting shops, a place to get lunch, and then drove 55 MPH home - except for the gravel roads we found where we dropped down to 35 - 40 MPH. And that's where we found the next problem - the funky smell in the HVAC system when we rolled up the windows and turned the A/C on. We had it briefly during the summer but it went away when I got the A/C fixed and started using it frequently. But now that the truck has sat for roughly a month since the CO trip it is back. But, unlike Kotter it isn't welcome! So, what do y'all think it might be? I'm thinking it is residual condensate that isn't draining out for some reason. Thoughts? And last, David will be interested in this. Haven't checked the MPG yet, but we put in over 100 miles and still haven't quite gotten down to Empty. That is certainly a new record. 55 MPH.

Thanks, Chris. I'm watching the AWS bills, but so far the servers are just idling, although that will change as we start truly using them. However there are also the domain name costs, SMTP2GO for email, and Weebly for the website itself. Plus probably some I'm forgetting. But I'll rack and stack the costs when we get to a steady state.

Looking good, Bob. Electronics and ham radio used to be high on the list for me as well. Got my license in '63 as WA0FFF. Knew my way around radios and TV's back then. And it makes sense that they'd be "winter hobbies" up north. Anyway, hope you can get the head to a good stopping point. But surely the intake has the same stuff in it? Wonder if you could seal the carb opening on the intake, turn the runners vertical, and fill them up with lacquer thinner? In cold weather it might not evaporate very quickly, and you could come back every once in a while to stir it and top it up.

When we migrate newly-registered users will only be able to start a new thread in New Members Start Here. No replies anywhere, like this one, and no new threads anywhere but NMSH until they are promoted to members. And they won't get promoted to members, which allows them to post elsewhere as well as reply until they give us a satisfactory introduction. So at least we will have any spam contained. And I trust that our members are smart enough to never, EVER click on a link in a first-timer's post in NMSH.

Home now and the links are fixed. So you should be able to get to the forum on "8" as well as "9".

Ok, two issues then: 1: Can’t access 8. You are right and I’ll correct then when I get home and can edit the site. But you can do it by just changing the 9 to 8 in the url. 2: The link took you to the production forum. Well, I’ll check into why, but that won’t be a problem when we migrate, so…

Also, Larry, you joined “9”, but you can try the same thing in “8” with the same email address.

Wait! When you clicked the link in the email you were to have been taken to a create new thread page in the NMSH folder. Or, a login screen and then the create page. Where were you taken? The main page?

I've been working on the joining process for when we migrate to the AWS servers, and I think I'm almost "there". However, my testing has run into a glitch right at the end when the new user is asked to log in. But, it might have been me or my browser that has been tripping me up. So, if some of y'all would like to help test I'd appreciate it. You'll need an email address that you haven't used on here before, but you can create new ones in gmail just for this purpose if you want. (I have ~a dozen. ) And any new membership you create will be lost when we migrate, so there's no worries about duplication. And you'll be doing this on one or both of two "test" forums I have running on the AWS servers. Just go to the New Bullnose Test Forum link in the upper right, and choose either #8 or #9 and click on the link. That'll take you to a backup I made of this forum as of last Sunday, so you should be logged in as yourself. Here are the steps: 1. Log out: In the upper right is your "screen name". Click it and log out. 2. Register: In the upper right should be a link allowing you to register. Click it. 3. Form: Fill in the registration form using your unused email address, and create a new screen name. Perhaps you should make it "Testxxxxyyy" where "xxxyyy" is your current screen name so we know who you are? 4. Follow process. But it would help if you were to take screenshots as you go along, and especially if you run into a problem. On Windows 10 you can do that multiple ways, but I press the Windows button and then PrtScrn (F8), which puts the snag in Pictures/Screenshots. The intent is for you to wind up logged in and looking at a Create Post screen in New Members Start Here. And that should be all you can do - create a new post in NMSH. Any help will be greatly appreciated! And if you walk through the process on #8 you can try it again on #9 with the same email address and the same screen name. Those forums are identical, but separate. Thanks!!!!

Hmmm? Two bids, now! Yep, and the 2nd one ain't me. I'm going to wait until Sunday afternoon and then put in a high limit and duke it out with whomever else wants it. The auction ends at 6:20 pm, IIRC, and we have an activity at church starting at 6:00, so I'll do that just before we go and see what happens.

Are they ready to go on or need refurb'd? You are closing in on having the interior done. What else needs to happen before you can drive it?

Wow! Starting bid of $1279!?!?!? I've bought whole trucks for 1/4 of that.

This user has been banned until an explanation about why "luxury watches" was discussed in the post.

Yes, I "restored mine to functionally original status" as well.

Are the lower sections covered by upholstered pieces? Or just painted?

400 miles each way, or round trip? Yes, I understand the fun of driving an older vehicle. When we were on Cinnamon Pass at almost 13,000' a lady took our pic and turned to someone beside her and say "Why?" I didn't hear her but our friend Mike did. Had I heard I'd have said "To prove I can."

By using the calculators at Documentation/Driveline/SPEEDOMETER GEARS, CABLES, & SENSORS. But there are three of them so here's what they are best used for: Correct Speedo Error: This one is for when your speedo is reading incorrectly. Just input what the speedo reads at 60 mph and what driven gear you are currently running and it'll tell you the driven gear you need. Set Up Gearing: This one lets you change anything. Input your "old" setup and then change something in the "new" setup and you can see the speedo cable speed, which you want to be as close as possible to 1000 RPM. Change tire size, drive gear, driven gear, or axle ratio. Comparative: Two tabs. The Gear Calc tab is pretty simple but shows what adapter box ratio is needed. The Original tab is simple as well. I'd use the Original on the Comparative tab as it is the most simple one. Again, you want the speedo cable to be spinning at 1000 R's at 60 MPH.

Cool! How far is it?

Progress!!!! And it is GOOD! Well done, Bill! It seems like you are making good progress. Hope it feels that way to you.

I don't see any problem with it. And that style of container is great.

Glad you found something that will cut it. That's really ugly looking stuff, so getting it out of there is vital. I hope you can get it done before the cold sets in. I hate leaving projects unfinished.