Gary Lewis

Here's a shot of the sway bar mocked up on Dad's truck. But I don't know if the '95 bar is the same. And here's your knuckle compared to the one on Dad's truck. I don't see anything wrong. And I think I'd put it together and see what happens. But the issue on the image rotation is not the iPhone. It is doing its job and embedding the orientation in the metadata of the file. But our forum doesn't read that data. So if you rotate the phone to take a pic then you have to rotate the pic to post it. I use Photoshop Express, but there are free packages for phone that will do it.

Have fun! And I'll bet you bring home a trophy.

I knew the calipers were different but I did not know the rear wheel cyl were Then again I may have only looked up the bore size of both the not the part numbers? Thinking if the bore sizes between all parts, power & non-power, were the same I would be ok to use the power brake booster & master with the manual brake parts at the wheels:nabble_anim_crazy: Dave ---- Yes, if the bore sizes are the same then I think you'd be ok. But I don't know how to tell bore sizes, just part numbers.

John - Thanks. That looks like the right stuff to adhere to glass. But I don't have glass for it to adhere to. The tape is wrapped around the glass, so unless I pull the tape there won't be any glass for it to touch. And the tape is well and truly adhered to the glass. It would be a pain to remove the tape as the glass doesn't come out. In fact, from what I read in the FSM the only way to get the glass out is to remove the window from the truck and then disassemble it. So I'd have to use a razor blade and see if I can get the tape off. And, with the tape off then the metal strip would be too big as it is designed to fit over the tape. I do appreciate you getting the info, but I debating whether to use Larry's suggestion of Super Glue or my idea of the RTV adhesive, both of which are clear. Super Glue: I think I'll have enough time to squirt some into the groove of the strip and press the strip in place. But will it be enough or too much? If too much how hard will it be to get off the glass? RTV: If I have too much of this I know I can remove it with a razor blade. But is it strong enough to adhere to the metal and the tape? Thoughts please y'all! I'm planning on trying something tomorrow.

They don't show in the MPC for some reason. But on the Tailgates and then Illustrations tabs on the page at Documentation/Exterior/BEDS, TAILGATES, & COMPONENTS we have this:

You may want to re-check all the part numbers. I cant remember if the bearings & races inner / outer are the same between the 2 sizes and same with the seal as I did not get that far with a swap when it all fell apart. Back ground I had 2 - 1981 trucks to make 1 good truck. The truck I wanted to put on the road had the large WBP (wheel bolt pattern) of 5.5 x 5 The parts truck had the small WBP 4.5 x 5 The road truck had frozen king pins so the plan was to take the front suspension from the parts truck and bolt it in to the road truck. Once it was in and I wanted to roll the truck around is when I found out about the WBP. I did not have wheels that fit the small WBP so I went to install my after market wheels and would not fit. My plan was to swap rotors so I could use the wheels I had but then found out the rotors did not fit the spindles. IIRC there was a off set and the rotor hit the brake caliper mount. That is when I did more digging and found the kingpins are different sizes so I could not swap spindles to the beams. So I had to use my old frozen kingpin beams & spindles after new kingpins. With the beams and spindles for the large WBP bolted in the truck I was going to use the parts truck calipers as I was going to use the the power booster from the parts truck. That is when I found the calipers are different between the 2 trucks and why I say check the part numbers again. Oh the front brake pads are different between the 2 trucks too. So in short what I found is from the beams on out to the tip of the spindles are totally different between the 2 WBP and no parts inter-change between them. You can swap the whole suspension as it will bolt in. It may not be what you wanted to hear but its what I found with my project. If you need more information let me know. Dave ---- Dave - Thanks a bunch. I knew you'd been into this before so wanted you to explain. Alan - Let me try to bring some part numbers out. First, the F100's with the small bolt pattern wheels had power brakes and a GVW from 4600 to 4700 lbs. You can see how I arrived at that conclusion on the F100's tab at Documentation/Bullnose FAQ's. Ok, given that we can turn to the brakes (Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and the Front Brakes and then Part Numbers tabs). The F100's and F150's use Parts List #2 and here it is. You can see that yours takes a different shoe & lining kit from the other F100's & F150's, different brake calipers, and different rear brake cylinders. And referring back to the info on hubs and rotors, the F100's with small pattern wheels use Front Hub & Rotor Parts List #6 while the other F100's and the F150's use Parts List #15. And here they are side-by-side so you can see the differences.

I could delete it for you, but then we wouldn't see how generous you are. Seriously though, you could edit your post and say they've found a new home. That way people aren't likely to contact you for them.

Ok, got a bit done today. All little stuff, but enough little stuff adds up. First, I checked for coolant leaks after yesterday's trip, and found none. No wet spots on the radiator support, no puddles on the floor, and no marks on the fender liner. But as I expected the coolant in the reservoir was down just a bit, surely 'cause I hadn't really gotten the system completely full after draining and refilling to replace the petcock. So I'm claiming that the cooling system is done. Then I decided it was time to adjust the passenger's fender to clear the door. That turned out to be fairly easy once I got all the fasteners loose, but some of them weren't really interested in coming loose. They will next time. Anyway, once I finally got them all loose the fender was easy to move forward a bit. And while doing that I remembered that the driver's fender was kicked out at the bottom, so I loosened the bolt at the bottom - with great difficulty. It took a lot of PB Blaster and working it back and forth to get it out w/o tearing things up. But it'll come out nicely next time. And the fender is tucked in. But, that got me to looking at the hood. Its shut lines were way off, so I adjusted, and adjusted, and adjusted. But couldn't get it to line up correctly with the fenders. Then I discovered that the hood latch was forcing the front of the hood to the driver's side when the hood closed. And when I adjusted the latch the hood fit nicely. However, I also realized that the rubber bumpers that go in slots toward the front of the fenders were missing. Sure enough, Vernon sent some new ones and I installed those. So now the hood shuts nicely and the fenders are fairly well lined up and miss the doors. But along the way I discovered that the passenger's side turn signal socket and bulb were laying in the radiator support. Turns out it didn't have the foam donut which provides tension on it, and w/o the donut it can work its way out. So I found a couple of donuts and put one on. Then I tried to install the thing from the back side. After about 30 minutes I finally gave up - with lots of marks on my arm from the radiator support. So I pulled the headlight door, which wasn't all that difficult, and put the bulb and socket in. But just before replacing the headlight door I decided to check the bulb - both filaments were out. So I replaced it with another 1157, checked that it all worked, and replaced the headlight door. Hmmm, wonder if both filaments on the driver's side are good? Nope! So I pulled that headlight door and went to the stash for another 1157 and discovered I am out. But, there were several 1157 LED replacements, so I grabbed one of them and stuck it in. Didn't work on Park but did on Turn. Long story short, I cleaned the socket and that didn't help. I got another LED bulb and it worked on Turn and but would only come on for Park as the bulb was part way in. This seemed like a ground problem but the ground spring was grounded and sticking out. I bent it some to get more tension against the bulb, to no avail. Back to the light bulb bin and there were two other LED 1157 replacements. Odd bulbs in that one terminal lights the side chips and the other lights the end chips. But both of them worked perfectly in the socket. So, several little things got done. But even though they were little things, it feels like progress.

Alan - Excellent! Glad they made it so quickly. Like maybe 10 days? Give us a few pics when you get them installed? On the rotors, I think the answer is no. But I'm tagging Dave/Fuzzface2 as I think he's been through this. Dave - Everything is different between the two bolt patterns. Right?

Oops! It was Dane that suggested that one. Sorry, Dane. And thanks! Yes, I'll provide a report. Probably not Sunday as even if it comes in then we have an event at church that evening, so it might be Monday.

That might work pretty well, Larry. Thanks. I have a tube of it laying here on the desk. But I want to see what John comes up with before I do this as with some of the approaches there's no going back.

I think you are checking it the same way I would. And I don't know what else to say or do.

Yep.

Is the frame in the position it will be when all this is done? As the '85 manual says, you have to add/subtract the angle of the frame from the camber recommendation. But I'm sure you know that. As for the lower ball joint, I don't see how you could get an bushing in there. The ball joint's stem was made to fit directly into the knuckle. I wonder what Shaun/salans7 knows about this. Maybe there's something different about the frames? I'm going to tag him.

Gary, I used some stuff when I replaced my window glass that, I think, would be ideal for this repair. When I get off work tonight, I'll check that and send you a pic. John - Thanks! I'll look forward to your response, but I'm not in a huge hurry. I just trial-fitted the metal strip and there is a piece of something on the glass that goes into a groove on the strip. But the stuff isn't sticky so the strip doesn't stay in place if you pull on it. But it will stay in place if you push it on. JB Weld might work if I put a little strip of it in the groove and it then bonded with whatever is on the glass, which I think it would do if I pushed the strip on pretty hard to squish the JB Weld out. But that seems risky as there is little recovery from that. And I'd need to make sure the JB Weld didn't run out the bottom as it would cause a problem in the track. Another thought is the RTV adhesive that came with dash cover. It is clear and I still have a tube of it left. I could put a bead of it in the groove and it would probably adhere to the stuff that's on the glass. Anyway, I'll wait on your response, John. And meanwhile I'm going to be repositioning the passenger's front fender. Before leaving for CO I knew that it was just touching the door. But on the mountain there were times we couldn't get out of the passenger's door. So we moved the fender as best we could w/o taking a whole lot of things loose, and got a bit of relief. But yesterday it gave us a problem again as the door popped when Janey opened it. So I lubed it with a chapstick and it did ok the rest of the day. Today is the day to fix that.

Good idea.

Well, that's interesting. If I read the catalog correctly these fit the 1980 - 85 trucks. But there is a different bumper for 1987 and later. However, there is no tailgate bumper for the 1986 trucks. (Of course, the MPC is never wrong, so we just learned something no one else knows! )

Not a bad price. Wonder how good the material is after this long - assuming it is from back in the 80's?

Well, that is interesting. Here's all I know about them. But they fit the A, B, C, E, & F versions of BW transfer cases, and usually the early-in-the-alphabet ones are the early versions, which would be the BW1345 instead of the BW1356. But I have no idea what they do inside the t-case. But they are cheap!

That's cool! But at $895 it is a bit 'spensive!

Those things are getting quite expensive, as that one shows - almost $450 delivered. But they are hard to find. However they are a slick way to put buckets seats in a regular cab truck. That's what I have for Dad's truck.

Yes, inquiring minds want to know! David - Thought you'd want to know. Unfortunately there was a long idling session on this tank when I was checking on the leaks in the cooling system. So that'll pull the overall MPG down some. And there was a bit of around town driving yesterday as we navigated Bartlesville to find two quilt shops and a place to eat. But I have a good feeling about it and hope to fill up in the next few days to find out. Scott - Thanks, but I believe I ordered the little brother of that one. It is the NIDAGE Wireless Endoscope for Automotive Inspection Semi-Rigid Flexible Waterproof 5.5MM WiFi Borescope. The one you mentioned, Wireless Endoscope, NIDAGE 5.5mm 2MP WiFi Borescope 1080P HD Semi-Rigid Snake Camera for iPhone Android, Tablet, Motor Engine Sewer Pipe Vehicle Inspection Camera(11.5FT) is longer and has better video spec's, but is a bit more money. So I went for cheaper and shorter. We shall see how it works as it is due in on Sunday. Maybe I can use it that afternoon.

I like the borescope idea. Do you have a recommendation?

Yep, the smell is there if you turn the fan on in any mode. I'll check tomorrow on the condensate coming out, but before the Colorado trip it certainly was. And at the time I first smelled it I poked a wire in to test if there was any blockage. There didn't seem to be. But something is wrong. As for the insulation, perhaps I got something near the drain? Or are you thinking it has soaked up moisture? I thought the insulation is closed-cell foam, but I'll check. On the window, I'll look to see how much room there is for something like tape. But I don't think there is much room as it was a fairly tight fit. However, I'm not sure I'm worried about it being permanent. And lubing the track with something like silicone spray is a good idea. 8.55, huh? I'm thinking I was pushing 12 today.