Gary Lewis

I had this same issue after rebuilding the 302 in my '84. I screwed around with a bunch of different things, but the temperature always checked out fine with a IR gun. However, the gauge always read high, but not overheating. In my case, it turned out to be the parts store sender I had installed. I went to the local Ford dealer and ordered an OEM replacement, and bam, my temperature gauge worked perfectly after that. At exactly 195F the gauge was reading straight up in the middle (I assume this is what Ford had intended). Can't help with the oil pressure sender though. My parts store senders worked fine, on a couple engines. Corey - That's good to know. I'm sure that Ford intended the gauge to read right in the middle at 195F as that's the temp 'stat that all of the vehicles had. So that makes sense.

You'd think that Ford would have learned about the water pump bolts. That happens more often than not. Sorry you are having those problems, but hope the machine shop can easily fix it. And I think it is a smart move to buy the crossmembers.

This came out today regarding the Eluminator. I grabbed it from here.

Sounds like a very sophisticated system, especially for its age. Compare that to the Bullnose trucks with nothing automated.

Welcome, Jeff! Glad you joined. Would you like to be on our map? You can see it at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. And don't miss my suggestion that you nominate your truck for the December Truck Of the Month.

Ouch! You've had your share of accidents.

Well, that brought out so many comments that I can't get my head around them. And since I take silence as "go for it", here's what I've done: Truck Of The Month: Polls; Pictures; Etc: I created a new folder and moved everything related to Truck Of The Month into it, with the exception of the discussion thread about creating the TOM, which I left in the main section. And I've asked John/Machspeed to organize it as he sees fit as he's graciously agreed to be the TOM king. Forum & Website Discussions: Created this new folder and moved the Website & Forum Suggestion Box, the Good News We May Be Moving Soon, the New Joining Process & Guidelines, and the Planning The Migration threads in there. WHYDTYTT: Pinned this so we can find it. This has reduced the # of pinned topics a bit, but I think there is still room to improve. So if you have suggestions please let me know what they are. Or, if you don't like what I've done please let me know..

I don't remember seeing a 2nd wire crimped with the resistor wire, but maybe I missed it? The schematic below shows there are two R/Y wires coming out of the connector, but not black at the insulator. Could you take a pic of that and post it? As for the ICVR output, it is so rough that it is surprising anything works off it.

Welcome to the forum. Glad you joined. However, you've missed the request from Scott to go to the New Members Start Here folder and introduce yourself. That isn't a requirement, like abiding by the guidelines is, but it would be appreciated. We are a community, not a one-post and away site, and we like to get to know people. As for your question, there is no relay. The whole of the door lock wiring is shown below, which is from the 1985 EVTM (Documentation/Electrical/EVTM's/1985 EVTM/Power Door Locks), and if you want to know the component locations that is shown on the next page in the EVTM. But what problem are you having? Do the actuators make noise but don't move the linkage? If that's the problem then it may be the actuators. I bought some new Chinese actuators from Amazon and they were absolute wimps. They didn't come close to locking my doors. But their protective "skirts" were good so I put those skirts on some old Ford actuators and they lock the doors emphatically.

Oh! Now I understand. No, I wouldn't tap that circuit as it isn't fused. It is protected by a fusible link, but if you lose that you lose the engine and you'll have fun replacing the link. Instead I'd pic a circuit that is fused. Like the Y/BK wire that is CKT #137 going to the radio. It is fused at 15 amps and if you blow it you'll just lose the radio. And you can easily replace the fuse.

Well, I've dreamed up another option - install an SO-239 connector in the rear of the cab and use a PL-259/BNC adapter to connect the current antenna to the SO connector. The problem I've been having has been that the coax that came on this antenna is so small that getting it into the BNC connector has been a huge problem. I've messed up several times on that because things have to be exactly right as you stuff everything inside the connector. But the SO-239 panel mount connectors are open on the back and have a center solder pin and a solder tab for the shield, which I can handle. See the pic below. So, since I think I got the BNC connector on the antenna correctly this time, if I put an SO connector in the back of the cab and then put a PL-259-to-BNC adapter (pic on right, below) on that I can use the current antenna. Here are some advantages/disadvantages, and I'd like your thoughts: Mag Mount/New Antenna: Total cost will be ~$100 as the mag mount is $29, a screw-on antenna is $50 - 60, and another PL-259 is $10ish. But I'd have options for the antenna. For instance Midland has a 6 dB gain antenna that would extend the range significantly, but it is 32" tall. Or, they have a 3 dB gain "ghost antenna" that is only 3 1/2" tall. However, in this scenario the magnetic mount doesn't come off the truck easily. SO-239: In this scenario the cost would be ~$20 as I could use the existing antenna, which has 2 dB of gain. And, the antenna could be taken completely off, leaving just the connector on the back of the cab. Plus, if I wanted to go with a mag-mount antenna later I could always cut the RG-58 coax of that comes with it and add a PL-259 connector to screw into the SO on the back of the cab - and still be able to take the mag mount off. Having typed all that out I'm leaning to the SO-239 option as it is cheapest for now and still has room to grow for later. But what do y'all say?

Thanks, Scott. Yes, we need to cross-ref. I'll see if I can look into that tonight while watching baseball.

Beat me to it, Scott. Thanks. But I don't think we ever really nailed that jello to the wall. Right?

Yes, if you have gauges and not idiot lights. Do you have a water temp and oil pressure gauge? If you have gauges then we need to determine which printed circuit, meaning the Mylar film the gauges are connected to, you have. There were two, one with no provision for a tach and one with. I'm thinking they are different colors but I don't remember. I know we've talked about this on here, but I don't think we've ever really nailed down which color has the circuits for the tach and which doesn't. However, if you pull your cluster out and look at the circuit the one you want has 4 holes in it for the tach, and circuits going to those holes.

Folks, I think we have way too many pinned items as they take up about half of the page at present. So I'd like to clean that up. I started a couple of days ago by moving the 2021 truck show folder into the Events/Garagemahal Ford Truck Shows folder. (Boy, was that a learning process.) And now I'm thinking about two more things: Website: I'm thinking of creating a "Website" folder and then moving the several threads like the suggestion box and moving thread into it. Truck Of The Month: Wondering about creating a folder for this and moving the various TOM threads into it. What are your thoughts on those? And what other suggestions do you have? There is a delicate balance between things being pinned to get attention and having so many things pinned they are easily overlooked.

Looks good, Bill. Is the ATC system controlled by a dial with temp numbers? Or a lever? Or?

Tom - I'm not sure I understand your question. Are you asking if the #16 ignition circuit can be the problem? Or the #16 terminal on the switch?

Good question Gary but no. I discussed this with the gentleman who designed it and he felt the thickness was appropriate for the design. He is an engineer and I have been amazed at what draws up and creates. After seeing so many of his projects, I seldom question anything he says outside of learning. Good to know, John. Thanks.

I'm guessing that you have a wiring problem. Pull the wire off the sending unit and ground it. The gauge should go to the far end of the scale if the wiring is good. If not, it is a wiring problem. And, you can do the same for the temp or fuel level gauges. All three are driven by the same ICVR and all three use the same scale and resistance range of sender. So you can actually use the temp sender to run the oil pressure or fuel level gauges for testing purposes.

Matt - Glad you joined. And you will fit right in, I’m sure. I saw that because you missed the request to go to the New Members Start Here folder and introduce yourself. And about half of new members do. On the oil pressure sender, how are they failing? Are they leaking? Or also they suddenly give the wrong reading?

It isn't my position to nominate someone else's truck, but I'm going to tag Flareside Jeff and see if we can include this one:

Congrat's Larry! By the way, have you named it yet? If not, how 'bout Phoenix?

That's pretty cool! I like the waterfall out of the grille.

Thanks, John. Your organizer does look good. But if you were doing it over again would you use lighter metal?