Gary Lewis

I've done it with small screwdrivers, just prying in one place a bit then in another place and walking it up, slowly. But the best thing I've used is a small 2-jaw gear puller. Put a piece of metal across the top of the shaft to press against and bring it up slowly. And if you don't have one you may be able to "rent" one from your local parts store. They usually charge you the price of the tool and then give it back when you return it.

As my father would have said, I resemble that comment.

Looks great! What paint did you use?

You pry up on it gently. It is held with a roll pin in a slot that provides pressure, and sometimes the shaft can get rusty, so a bit of oil can help. But only a bit. And did I say GENTLY?

Sparkfun is a great outfit, so I'm sure their how-to is a good one. And I agree that a cheap DVM is plenty. But a meter with a needle sure would be handy!

Well, I may have to change my tune about Midland Radio. I just got this back from them: Needless to say, I responded and thanked her, profusely!

Thanks, Dane. Yes, it has been "a bit of a headache". In fact, I've taken Excedrin several times of late. Midland would have had an order if their webpage had the item. But when you call they effectively say "Your call is important to use but we don't have the time to answer it. Leave a message or email us and we'll get back in a few days." That is SO FRUSTRATING! Yes, I understand that hiring people is difficult these days, but I actually talked to people at Digi-Key and Mouser, who didn't have the part but took the time to check, and then again at DERF where I ordered it. And speaking of DERF, that was kind of comical. You pull up their page for that connector, as shown below, and you'll see two phone numbers. I called the bottom one, got Vicky, and discovered that they sell to dealers - only. But, they do sell to individuals via websales, so call the other number. I did and was talking to Vicky again. Oops, I was supposed to enter 147 to get to Matthew instead of 2 for Sales, but she didn't tell me that. But the recording doesn't say that, nor does the web page. Also, note that the page shows a price of $23 now. It didn't when I first called. Matthew said "Can I put you on hold for a bit while I find out what the price is?" I said "Sure". But after a minute it started ringing and pretty soon Matthew answered. He didn't know, but after their system has been on hold for a minute it calls the original number you'd called back. So it was comical. But it all worked out and they got the sale. However, had Midland...

Go to More and then Permalink and copy that. Don't copy the URL at the top of the browser page. That usually just takes you back to the main page.

Yes sir, that’s it. I’ll have to figure out what I’m doing wrong with the links. Click More/Permalink.

Dane - The link you gave was a URL, probably copied from the browser. What you need is the permalink. I think this is the one you meant, right?

No, when I’m traveling by myself I set it on the seat next to me. The radio has a 12 volt cigar lighter plug. Ahhh! The radio is mounted on a cutting board! I thought the mag mount was. Ok, now for an update on my quest. It has been painful, to say the least. But to cut to the chase, I just ordered one Amphenol 83-878-1003 rear mount solder terminal UHF connector, which is supposed to be an SO-239 connector, one PL-259 to BNC right-angle adapter, and one SO-239 cap. And all in, I think it was about $50. But there was another option. Today, after 3 days of waiting, Midland got back with me. And they said I should order: That sounded pretty good as my checking showed that the gland nuts I have would pass the 3/8" FME connector, and they'll tighten down nicely on the ~1/4" thick RG58 coax. However, when I went to the Midland website it cannot find an MXTA51. And when I Google that number there are no results on the whole of the internet. So I have no idea on price and no way to order it. I sent Midland back an email and turned to looking for the SO-239 connector to mount in the back of the cab. I decided I wanted a "rear mount" connector, meaning one that would slide through the hole in the roof from inside the cab and be secured with a nut on the outside. That's because to have a nut on the inside would mean I'd have to either drop the headliner or remove the cargo light to get a wrench in there, and I don't want to do either. Called Digi-Key and they don't have any panel mounts that don't use 4 screws in the corners instead a nut. Called Mouser. And checked several others as well, including Amazon. But no one had what I was looking for. Finally I found a page that give me a part number for the Amphenol connector and Googled that. Got a hit at Derf Electronics and they had the part. After finally getting to the right guy I got a price of $23 + shipping, so I bit the bullet and ordered it. This solution is the one I've wanted with one minor issue - the Amphenol connector isn't waterproof. But it looks like the ones that are just have a rubber washer under the nut and washer, and I have one of those so I think it'll be fine. And I can use a bit of RTV as well. But it will allow me to change out the antenna w/o going back into the headliner, so I think it is the right approach.

Wow! 60 years! Wonderful! Congratulations! Janey and I've "only" been married 52 years, so we are a bit behind you. As for southern CO, we've ridden the Chama/Antonito train, once, and the Durango/Silverton several times. And my brother and I were through Gunnison just a couple of months ago in Big Blue going to/from Ouray. Very nice country. But I understand moving a little slower these days. Me, too! Anyway, glad you are here.

It sounds like you are getting way too much air into the intake via the PCV system when the valve cover works its way loose. But the PCV valve should limit that, so I think there is something amiss. Anyway, if you get it sealed up tight then you shouldn't have the problem. Good luck!

Yes, that's it. Although I didn't check to make sure it is right for your dizzy as I assumed you had.

No need to pull the dizzy. It is the blue thing with the wires that come out the side via a grommet that slides up and out.

Tom - Hang in there, you'll get it fixed, and soon.

I think there may be two issues here: One Click & Nothing: As was said, if the battery is low or bad, or if the cable from the battery to the relay has a bad connection you can get the relay to click but the starter won't spin. And if the battery is low you might get it to click once and then not again until the battery builds back up again. So have you checked the battery? I would put my meter on the battery terminal on the relay and then turn the key and see what the voltage does at the relay. I needs to stay up around 12 volts. PMGR Starter: The smaller/lighter starter you described is a Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction unit, and is much superior to the old style starters. But you have to do more than just move the starter cable to the battery side of the relay. You also have to run a new wire to the starter, as described here: Documentation/Electrical/PMGR Starter Wiring. Without that extra wire the starter is not going to spin.

I think that pickup is a likely culprit. I've seen the insulation fall off the leads to it such that using the vacuum advance would short it and kill the engine. And I've seen them do strange things when they get hot. Tricks? Just be careful and don't break the reluctor that is on the shaft. Otherwise it should be pretty easy.

That's funny!

I thought about suggesting those, but the question was about how to "wire a flatbed onto my F550 quarry truck" and I was afraid those won't seal. Maybe I was wrong? Please let us know how they work for you.

Yes, that would be a problem. If the underlying substrate doesn't have "tooth" for the coating to adhere to, or if the substrate flakes off, the coating will chip. I once media-blasted a piece of interior plastic with the idea that it would both remove the flaking stuff and leave more of the texture that they have than sanding. It worked, but my choice of media, coal slag, was poor as there were sharp pieces in it that penetrated the plastic and left sharp protrusions. However, if something smoother was used I think that could be a good prep as it does get rid of the flakey stuff and it does leave a bit of texture. On the other hand, SEM now has their Texture Coating, and they say "Texture Coating is a unique blend of flexible materials for restoring the textured finish on bumpers, dashes, fiberglass tops and other plastic parts prior to painting." So that's probably the way to go to get texture back.

Wow! Why didn't I think of that? We have that whole section on the site here: Documentation/Body/Stationary Glass - Butyl Seal. I put it there, so should have thought of it when the question was asked.

My brother and I were bringing Big Blue back from Florida. His first turn to drive I said "Click this button to put it in Tow/Haul mode." He did and when he hit the brakes later and it tached up for compression braking he said "Wow! What did you have to pay for that feature?" "It is standard on these trucks. Your Toyota doesn't have it?" "Shut up!"