Gary Lewis

Right. I wouldn't expect to be able to use that.

Nice truck. Bet it goes for a lot.

I'm glad you mentioned crimpers. I'm actually planning to solder all of my connections into those terminals - even though I have a ratcheting crimper. We'll see how that goes, but I'll roll the tabs over the wire itself and solder, and then roll the tabs into the insulation. And these are the connectors with the wings. Here's a snip from one of their pages.

Well that makes sense. Yes it was on the edge before guess it got pushed over I looked into having the snorkel flapper work but the vacuum motor is no good. I found out you can get this so will look into it at some point. Dave ---- Getting the door to close might help. But in cold weather you'll still have pretty cool air going into the carb depending on the sensor you use:

The colder inlet air packs things in tighter, sorta like raising the compression ratio. (One of the reasons I'm insulating the inlet system on Big Blue.) If you were on the very edge that might have pushed you over. But backing off a couple of turns will probably help.

If you got mis-matched years it'll not fit. I have a Bullnose Bronco rear tank and bought '96 fuel delivery modules. The tabs on the FDM won't fit into the slots in the tank, as explained here. See if those pics match up to yours.

I use the brake cleaner to clean the wire's insulation so I can determine the colors. Makes a huge difference. These wires are dirty, as my hands will attest, and it is really hard to know what colors the wires have on them. But it is critical that I get it right, so I spend a lot of time cleaning. And yes, I'm making progress - now that I've resolved the ignition module issue. Next up is reconnecting the speed control's connector as it has wires dangling. Then I'll need to connect the switched-power, oil pressure & coolant temp, tach, VSS, horn pad, BOO, etc, etc, etc. However, there is an end to all of it, and I'm REALLY looking forward to it. Last night I was looking at what Binary Editor does. BE is the software that Bill and I use to connect to the EEC's computer, and it allows both changing parameters as well as just monitoring things. Just being able to monitor AFR for each bank, inlet air temp, engine coolant temp, and lots of other things is a big benefit.

Good info, Bill. But I've not found a good source for the connectors themselves, so wanted to start with new ones. I'll probably use a 2-pin connector for the backup lights as they are LED and the 12 amp limit is plenty. But I'll probably use a 3-pin for the fog lights, one pin for the relay's coil and two for the output, so there's no worries about maybe using a hotter bulb.

I think your oiling problems are due to the engine not spinning. But the oil pressure looks good. Man, this has been a long time coming, but you are getting there.

Ok, a combo of C321 and C325 it is. I'll bridge them in my harness. That way if anyone if using this approach it can all be done in the EFI harness. As for the numbering scheme, that makes sense. And it helps. Thanks.

If you do it on here then everyone can learn. And we can find the discussion w/a Google search. Not so if you do it "offline".

The catalog says: 84/89 E100/350 and F150/350.U150 - - 4.9,5.0,5.8L

Just wanted y'all to know I'm trying out a new terminal kit. It is this one from Amazon. I just got it in today so haven't used it yet, but plan to do so on Big Blue's EFI upgrade and will let you know how it goes. The spec's say that the terminals are good for 15 amps, but I'm not sure of that as there are what seem to be identical kits that say they are good for 12 amps. And some of the pictures show round pins and others show smaller rectangular pins. The kit I got has the smaller pins, but that isn't going to be a problem as the only application I have that will pull much current at all is the fog lights. Currently (pun intended) they are only rated at 110 watts, total, so 12 amps would be just adequate. However I think I'll double up on the pins for the fog lights, just to make sure. Anyway, at $27 I couldn't resist. (There I go again. )

Yep, that's it. And if you have it then you shouldn't need the regulator.

Good job!

Thanks, Bill. The HEGO numbering bewilders me, but I think I have it. But, I just found a minor problem and need to re-open the discussion on switched power. I'll attach the pages from the '96 EVTM at the bottom of the post, but Page 27-1 shows that R/LG wire coming into the PDB as only pulling in the PCM relay. However, I've been wondering why that wire is a #10, so did a bit more looking today and found Page 13-5, which says that wire also powers the ignition control module, radio capacitor, ignition coil, and distributor. Obviously running that through the resistor isn't "on". (Pun intended.) So let's re-open the previous discussion. You said: But why not just plug into C321 and pick up that W/LB-H wire? I want to use the connectors that are already there. So if I'm picking it up in one connector it doesn't look like splicing the two wires together helps since I can only pick one of them. Or, if I want to join the two wires why not use both C321 & C325 and join them in my EFI harness instead of changing the '85 wiring? That would spread the load across two connections. And, Ford used fairly small wire on the downstream part of those connectors, so it would seem good to use both of them. Here's the '96 page that led me to believe that the R/LG wire only pulls in the PCM relay: And here's the one that disabused me of that understanding:

Moving right along, here's the ICM connector integrated into the harness. The pins have been swapped out in C101 and the R/LG wire is soldered to the R/LG wire coming from S148.

And, here 'tis. I pulled the terminals out of C101 on Huck's harness so they'll go into C101 on the 96 460 harness. And the R/LG wire will go back to S148 near the PDB. However, I cut the wires at the PCM as I'll have to extend them anyway to get to the PCM under the dash. And, I'll put a shield on the GY/O and O/R wires, just like Ford did.

Well, I think I just had an epiphany. Looking at the 1996 5.0L Canadian harness I discovered that it has the same connector with the same wire colors as my 460 CA-spec harness. BUT, it also has the ignition control harness with the right wire colors! So, what I've been calling the ICM connector isn't. I don't know what it is, but I know what it isn't. Apparently the ICM connector was cut off of the CA harness before I got it. So, I think I'll pull the ICM connector off of Huck's harness and graft it into the CA-spec harness.

If you had the hot fuel setup you'll have a return line. Right? If so I'd put a return-style fuel pressure regulator on it. That will keep the fuel flowing, eliminate vapor locking, and let you set the pressure for the carb. One of these from Summit would work well.

YES! I knew that reminded me of something! But I'd have said Nolensville Pike at about the zoo. Our kids used to live 1 block south of Thompson Lane on Dobbs, so I know that area pretty well.

Morning, Bill. On the ignition module location, I'd like to keep it under the hood, but thanks for the offer. I think below the speed control but with a heat shield will work well. As for the SPOUT, I forgot to tell you that it is 12" the ECU's connector. And concerning the foil, here's a before I pulled the foil and after on the '96 CA-spec 460 harness at the SPOUT & ECU. The foil came all the way to that point from C101.

Well done! At first it looked like the red cable on the battery side of the starter solenoid just wrapped around on itself. But on closer examination I see that it goes to the fuse and there's a short positive cable to the battery. I'll bet that charges quite well with that heavy cabling.

Bear in mind that this is how it is routed - after several people have had this truck apart. Including http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/florida-man-42_orig.jpg. That's it running along the right side of the pic inside the convolute.