Gary Lewis

That would be pretty fancy, Bill. But my mirror gives front & rear camera views awa compass heading and speed via GPS.

Not sure I understand. "Getting the vacuum"? "beet lean idle"?

I know exactly where Eddyville is as I drove through there on I-24 last Wednesday at 6:30. Left Nashville that morning, stopped at the fabric store in Paducah at 9, and made it home to Skiatook by 7. Anyway, you are now on the map.

Cory - Emissions stuff isn't always thought to be cool, but having the documentation is my idea of cool. Matt - I'll get it on the site ASAP so you can study it. But it hasn't even shipped yet, so it'll be a while before I can. Chad - Once I set aside the time to do it scanning doesn't take all that long. I take the book apart and then feed it into the scanner, about 30 sheets at a time. The scanner does both sides in one go at about 1 sheet every two seconds. However, it takes maybe 5 minutes per 30 pages to optical character recognize it. So I can get through a 100 sheet book in maybe 20 minutes. I can then just put the whole document on a page on the website, but I find it helpful to create links in the ToC to each chapter so people can go directly to the section in question. That takes a bit more time but it isn't too difficult. So yes, I could scan the ToC, but I can do the rest of the book fairly easily and quickly so will probably do that rather than just the ToC. However, I could take a pic of the ToC and post it if that's all you are looking for.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Nice truck and interesting paint job. Stands out in a crowd. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and could add you with a city/state or zip.

Some of you may have seen this book advertised on Facebook today. I couldn't pass it up as it is a 1986 Ford training book and, therefore, fits into my plan to ensure this site is the world's premier documentation site for Bullnose trucks. It isn't here yet, and won't get scanned in for quite some time even after it gets here, but I thought I'd give y'all a preview:

Almost ready. Class starts in an hour. First time back in what seems to be a month! That was a loooong trip.

That's a nice one, David.

This "Fit System DN100 Day/Night Rear View Mirror" on Amazon says it will fit. And there's the "Fit System DN120 Day/Night Rear View Mirror" Or the "Fit System DN080 Day/Night Rear View Mirror". But other than those, all of the ones on Amazon appear to be designed to strap on to the old mirror, mount with a suction cup, or have a mount that won't fit a Ford.

Welcome. I think you'll find it is a simple problem, but it might be tricky to find. However, we are here to help regardless of how deep the problem is.

Your bushing does appear to have taken a set, and while you have things apart I'd replace it. And u-bolts can be reused. But the shock may be ok if it was already fully extended. I'd push it up and see what happens when you let it loose. Most shocks are gas-charged and should quickly extend fully when released, so if it doesn't the gas has probably leaked out and the shock needs to be replaced. But I'd replace them in pairs. And the pivot does appear to be worn. I would pull it apart and see what is going on there. Last, did I hear a British accent in the video?

Yes, some AOD's had rods and some had cables. Sounds like you have a bit of a cam if you are only getting 14 - 15 inches of vacuum. Normally I'd expect 18". So you may well need to fatten up the mix. But you are right, you need the AFR meter working to do the tuning.

Welcome! Glad you joined. You may want to post the same thing in the main section as it'll get more attention than here. But we can work on it here if you want. By the way, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can add you if you'd like. As for your problem, I think you have a mis-wire in the ignition switch circuit such that the W/LB wire going to the coil is hot even with the key off. The way the ignition circuit works is that the EEC causes TFI module to ground the DG/Y wire on the coil and then take the ground off when it wants to fire a plug. But you must also have power to the EEC when the key is off or it wouldn't be telling the TFI module to fire the ignition. So something is pulling in the EEC Power Relay. And that W/LB wire is what pulls the relay in, so if you have power to the coil you also have power to the EEC.

Wow! You got lucky!

I think you'll be fine in Frostbite Falls, but maybe not in Moosylvania. Anyway, keep on keeping on. I'm anxious to see how it comes out.

It was more that the engine was under load and got thoroughly warm. Around town doesn't necessarily do that. I find that it takes 20 - 30 miles at highway speeds for my engines to get everything warm. I judge that by the oil pressure, which drops a bit at idle after the engine is fully warm. Also I've had a bad head gasket and it wouldn't leak at less than 45 MPH. Below that it would run forever w/o losing coolant. Above that it lost coolant very consistently. I'm not saying I think you have a head gasket leak, but just wondering under what conditions you are losing coolant. You could do a leak-down test to see if the head gasket is leaking. Or put a pressure tester on the radiator cap and see if the system loses pressure. And there are litmus tests for products of combustion in the coolant.

Liked the video. Nice Bronco. At 200+ miles you are still doing break-in and I think the vacuum will come up as things wear in. And the compression readings are good. But I don't know what to suggest on the coolant. It would be surprising if you lose about the same amount each drive. But it is possible little air pockets are being worked out. Have you driven it on the highway? If so, does that change the amount of coolant you lose? Highway use would cause the pressure to come up, which should cause it to use/lose more coolant.

A crewcab or Supercab would be even easier. Got several things connected up, inc the OBD-II connector and the "warning lights", more on which later. Here's a pic of where I left off, and in it you can see the OBD-II connector with it's always-hot power wire going to a bullet that will go into the cigar lighter's connector. The wires that loop up on the left are "case grounds" for both the OBD-II connector and the ECU, and they'll connect to the wye wire which will be screwed to the firewall under the dash. The heavy black wire is the ground that branches out in that convolute to serve both the OBD-II connector as well as several grounds to the ECU. It goes through the firewall grommet, which I now see is on backward, and connects to a system ground under the hood. And in the middle of the mess above is the "warning light" connector. It has connections for both the Malfunction Indicator Light, aka Check Engine, as well as the Low Range light. I'm not really sure why the ECU needs to know when I shift to Low Range, but there's an input for it so I'll connect it up. Anyway, I used the new heat shrink labels on the warning light connector, so here's a closeup of them. Lots nicer than the "flags" that are showing in the pic, but have subsequently been removed. Also, I spent considerable time today trying to figure out how to use the factory wires to the Shift indicator that I'm going to use as the Check Engine light. But all I did was get frustrated. There were a couple of issues. First, the schematic is wrong. The ground wire to the light is Y/BK instead of T/R. Second, the first connector it goes to, presumably C135, has 3 terminals instead of 2. I searched all over for a brown 2-terminal but couldn't find it. Finally I pulled out another harness and traced the wires and found them going to a 3-terminal connector. But I don't have the matching connector so I'll just splice into the harness at the light. (Someone remind me when I get closer to figure out how to put a Check Engine label/filter on that light.) And tomorrow maybe I'll start extending the other wires to those on the PDB. But I still have the Brake On/Off and horn/speed control wiring to deal with in the cab, so maybe I'll stay with cab wiring?

That's CHEAP!

I think the wires will hide up under the dash enough they won't be seen from the seating positions. Man, on Dad's truck I'm going to install that thing awa the brace before installing the dash! Would be soooo easy that way, but such a pain with the dash on. And I don't think it would even be possible with the seats in. Yesterday I slid under there a dozen times, threading my head around shift levers, brake pedals, etc. Anyway, I'm starting the wiring now. We shall see how that goes...

That looks COLD! Outside here the birds are singing and the sun is about to come up on a glorious Spring day. Flowers blooming, trees leafing out, and the grass is saying "mow me!"

Good point, Cory. And it fits perfectly with Matt's suggestion of listening for the pumps to run. If the inertia switch is tripped then the pumps won't have power. Jochen - The inertia switch is by the passenger's left toes, usually just under the edge of the carpet. There should be yellow wires to it, one of which is from the fuel pump relay and the other going to the pump. It should be wired as shown below if you have a single tank, but it can be reset if it is tripped by pushing the plunger down. And I believe there's a ground right at the battery's negative terminal that is for the ECU. So you might check that as well.

That really does look good. I think I'm sold on the all white, but white and red will look good as well. However, is that red a "finish" type of paint?

Sometimes a backfire on deceleration is due to a blown power valve. You didn't say what the CO levels were, but if it is blown they should be high.