Gary Lewis

You are now, quite literally, on the map.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Where in GA? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city or zip.

It’s depends on who you ask. I have a book entitled Cleveland Engines that includes the M-block engines. But Ford called them the 351C, 351M, and 400.

I think you’ll have a hard time reaching that torque with grease on it. But let us know what find.

Actually, according to the page below (Documentation/Body/BODY SHELL, EXTERIOR TRIM, FRAME & UNDERBODY) there is not supposed to be any lubricant on the surfaces of the body mounts, as said in the note in the upper left. And, thinking back on it, that's how I finally got the bolts torqued properly, with the torque values also shown. With the silicone lube the poly bushing just kept squeezing out from under the mount.

Really nice! And pretty straight. Yes, I'd daily that. But I'll bet it gets 10 MPG. (I didn't watch the whole video so I don't know if he said.) Dad said his truck, a 351M with a C6, always got 10 MPG, regardless.

No, EFI doesn't have a choke nor power valve. Best let Matt walk you through the issues as I'm not that familiar with it - yet.

Aron - The email you were sent asked you to post an introduction in the New Members Start Here folder. That's requested for two reasons. First, because that gives you another chance to see the guidelines, and we hold everyone to them so it is important that you see and read them. Second, we are a community and like to get to know each other, so introductions are important. As for your question, there's plenty of documentation on this site that answers your question. The first place I'd recommend is at Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1986 EVTM. Then go to the Charge & Power Distribution (Diesel Engines) pages. And on Page 22 you'll see the ignition switch and all of the wires that are hot in Run.

Welcome, Joe! Glad you joined. Sounds like a worthwhile project. And that's easy enough stuff to do. Are you in Tejas? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can add you with a city/state or a zip.

I agree. And the ability to right-click, grab the pic’s URL, and paste it in works so well.

This sort of stuff really tweaks the geek in me! 🤓 Wait, was this in Pocona or Wilmington? I've got to assume that we're talking about the period when CDC was transitioning from a data center model to creating bespoke hardware for their clients. Regardless, you've had a very interesting life on the forefront of a revolution. Tcbaklash - Learning's good. You’ll do well with PLC. Those things came out after I was past the education stage of my career and I missed learning about them. However, my powder coating oven has one and I read up on how it works. Pretty slick. Jim - I didn’t work with CDC on SCADA. My first system was from an outfit called Moore Systems in Sunnyvale, and it controlled the substations. They used DEC computers, and I spent a bit of time in Marlborough. The next system, to control the generators, was from Honeywell and they made their own computers. But later I did work with CDC. Conoco used their computers for exploration calculations and I was responsible for the networking. So I had to learn about their Network Access Devices.

EFI

It looks like it is running VERY rich. I'd check to see that the choke is opening fully. If so I'd check to see if the power valve in the carb is blown. Either of those can cause that condition.

Excellent! I look forward to the report back.

Problems that magically go away worry me 'cause I'm always afraid they'll magically come back. Is there any chance the no-spark issue was the cause of the problem all along?

Good job on the bushings! And I agree that silicone is not the lube to use on polyurethane bushings. In my case I couldn't reach the torque that Ford specified for the cab mounts w/o the bushings being mushroomed waaaaay out. The silicone grease was way too slick. And I guess you got the chuck and taper back in? Yes, the tang has to align with the recess in the spindle, and then a light tap should seat it.

Hey, Joe. The email you were sent asked you to go introduce yourself in the New Members Start Here folder. That's 'cause we want you to have had every opportunity to read the guidelines, which are stored in the NMSH folder. So please assure me that you've read them?

I think you are right, Pete, on both scores. The standard may be male pins in a female connector, but as long as you are the only one using it I think you can do it either way. Or, as it says, use a mix of male and female pins in the same connector. And, I'll bet either the 22-pin isn't a Packard original or they just don't carry it. My Google search turned up several such 22-pin connectors.

I'm not sure I understand. What broke? Was it the chuck? What I see in the picture is a chuck attached to a taper. It looks like a Morse taper with a tang to me. Some Morse tapers have threads and a draw bar pulls the make taper into the female taper. But usually a drill press has a tang and a slot, like yours and mine. So, what is the problem?

Thanks, Mark! I certainly do appreciate it.

Yes, almost for sure. But I wouldn't go beyond 14, even if it doesn't ping.

The bottom/bigger thing is the speed control amplifier, and the top thing is your horn relay. I think you can unplug and remove the amplifier if you don't want the speed control, but your horn won't work w/o the relay.

As I said in Big Blue's Transformation thread, I just ordered some wire from Wiring Depot. And while I was poking around their site I found a page on WEATHER PACK TERMINAL FAQS. Since it has some really good info in it I thought I'd copy and paste it here. Which brings up a question: Do we need to have a page in the documentation on weatherproof connectors? We could include things like this in an easy-to-find location.

Yes! It's like manna from heaven. And I'm happy to store ECU's in case people need them later. Those living in CA may have to have them, and even many in other states still want to keep their trucks "factory", so we'll need ECU's from time to time. And the "reman'd" ones don't seem to be reliable.

I tell people I'm an electrician because nobody knows what an instrumentation technician is. I worked for a company that built PLC control panels and did system integrator service, so I'm REALLY passionate about labels. And yeah I once borrowed a Brady BMP61 label printer from work to do a 4-relay control box on my 2000 4Runner for permanent wire labels. $0.50 per heat shrink label. I'd go with the smallest size shrink tube (18-12AWG). If you don't want to concern yourself with sizing the heat shrink correctly, sometimes it's best not to use the heat gun for labels on especially small wires. Without heat, the label is flat and grips small wires. With heat, it turns round and slips off small wires. Jim - Yes, I have a web of grounds with every panel grounded in several ways. But, like you, I want to ensure there is no noise on the ECU's grounds so will look things over closely to see what appears to be the cleanest way to do it. Shaun - Yes, it shouldn't take much to hold the ECU in the bracket, so that tab is surely enough. But if the tab doesn't hold it tightly I may put a piece of foam tape on the bracket to ensure things won't rattle. tcbaklash - Sorry, can't remember your name. Anyway, I certainly know what an instrumentation tech is. Spent many months learning how to do that before our first Supervisory Control & Data Acquisition system came in, which was to become my baby. So I both understood how the data and control systems used to work as well as how to tie into them with the new SCADA system. As for what tubing to use, I did order the smallest. But hadn't thought about how to use it on really small wire. Leaving it flat makes sense, but I was expecting to put a piece of regular heat shrink on the wire first and then put the label on that. I like placing the label near the terminal and I always use adhesive-lined heat shrink on my terminals to insulate awa to support my soldered connection. However, on the ECU all of the pins are factory-terminated so there's no heat shrink. And I don't want to de-pin the connector just to put a label on, so I'll slip the label on the wire before I connect the black extension, and then shrink it where it won't be preventing the wire from bending. That will make it easier to ring-out the wiring. I intend to test each circuit to the ECU individually to ensure everything is correct before connecting the ECU and applying power. I think I have it wired correctly, but I want to make 100% SURE.