Gary Lewis

Very rare!

Toolbox! Does inside count?

Yeah I'm doing payments after saying I'd never do it again... This car is THE BOMB for long-distance driving. I figured out the adaptive cruise control and it basically drives itself as long as you do the steering. I always wanted to get a 2005/2006 Lexus LS430 for maximum comfy but now I don't have to. It's not as fast as my Fiesta was, but it's still deceptively quick for a big car. Overall I'm very happy, and now I don't have to drive my 274k mile Dodge on our upcoming big summer trip towing a pop-up camper through 5 states. My 2015 F150 is the most comfortable vehicle I’ve had. But the adaptive cruise is turned OFF. It hits the brakes at times when passing a reflective tanker truck, and if someone was on my tail there would be a wreck. And the gentle nudge it’ll give the steering if you get too close to the edge of a lane is turned off. One day the guy I was following hit black ice and slide to the left on a bridge. I eased right in case he came back and the nudge was just enough to send me sideways. After recovering, and doing a bit of cleanup, I turned it OFF.

Jim - No wonder I have such poor MPG/ride/height/etc! I have some from Sky, Bilstein, Summit, Rock Auto, L&L, Smittybilt, Luk, and on and on. Does it matter where I put them?

Congrat's, David. I'm still working on SC.

I like to document things here as well. Much easier to find than my note pad.

LOL! Ok, I'll play. My name is obvious, but as I've been on a whole lot of forums, like lathe/Mercedes/Full Sized Bronco/MOPAR/etc, I decided to use my real name for my handle so I didn't have to remember anything. As for truck names, my first Bullnose was an Explorer so it was the Explorer. I bought an '83 pile of junk out of a yard that was brown, so he was Brownie - and many parts are labeled that. Then I bought the '82 that had lots of surface rust so he was Rusty, although he had a lot of "stuff" all over his frame and running gear so maybe should have been Crusty. Bought a '90 half-truck, meaning from the back of the cab forward so he became Huck. Oh, and I forgot Dad's truck, but that should be obvious. Then came the first "Big Blue", which is the 2015 F150. But when we got the '85 F250 home it was both blue and bigger than the 2015 F150, so it became Big Blue and the 2015 got demoted to Blue. Which was prophetic as with the D60 and SD springs he's now 2" higher than he was.

Carl - The passenger's side looks to be tilted out some. But otherwise looks much like the other side. How much clearance does the driver's side have to the bumper? If about the same then I'd say there isn't a problem. But it the difference is large then maybe it is bent.

I agree that showing it as C153 is surely wrong. Weird!

Congratulations!!! Glad you got it fixed. And glad the forum is helping.

Glad you got it going! And yes, you should be able to get 20" of vacuum at idle. But in reality you just go for max vacuum, dropping the idle speed back to where you want it as it increases with the increased vacuum. And then give it 1/8 to 1/4 turn more open on the screw to make it slightly richer.

Pete - You are correct. You can see that info on our page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Alternator Conversion. On that page you'll find the diagram below, which is from the '96 EVTM, and it shows what you are planning. Last, I think you are wise to go with a 3G.

I agree.

Excellent! But it was actually John/Machspeed that sent them. He’s the sticker king.

And mine is Gary. Gary Lewis.

You’ll need enough hose to get below tank level, so the best place to pull the hose would be at the fuel pump. Hope that works for you. But a rusty tank is a huge pain, so my recommendation would be to drain the gas to make dropping the tank easier and then drop and replace the tank.

No new holes is a win! As for the leaks, I’ve heard many Brit vehicle awa Harley owners say that. And while Big Blue is pretty tight, he does have a drip. So if you get yours dripless you’ll have done well.

If you want to avoid a significant expense in something like Binary Editor, which cost me ~$600 and lets me make changes to the ECU, then you want a 1996 donor. As Bill said, that was the last year of the 5.0L and the first of the OBD-II ports in a truck. But I think I disagree slightly with what Bill said about the transmission. I think by '96 the C6 was long gone and the available autos were both computer controlled. So if you find a '96 donor with an auto the computer will not be happy if it doesn't "see" the transmission. And while you can turn that off with Binary Editor, that requires you to buy that system. Instead I think you should look for a truck with a manual transmission. I'm probably 90% done with my EEC-V implementation. You can see what I've done in Big Blue's Transformation.

You are now on the map. And that sounds like a really nice build. Hope you'll start a thread in the main section and keep us up to speed on what you do.

I guess I was wrong. Perhaps I didn't get mine coated inside? Went back to my To Jet Hot Or Not thread and found this:

Welcome, Richard/Smitty. Glad you joined. Where’s home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member’s Map in the menu) and can add you with a city/state or zip. On the questions, start a thread in the main section. You’ll get a lot more response there than here.

Good plan, Stan. Go up 3 or 4 sizes. It is easy enough to swap jets on a 2150.

You can put the vacuum gauge on the cowl, zip-tied to the windshield wiper. But, having changed the power valve and seeing that it is a lot less lean when you get past 1/2 throttle then you've made progress. I'd jump 2 or 3 jet sizes before going much farther. You are a lot better off to be too rich instead of too lean. And once you get it broken in you can change the jets again if you are then too rich.

The power valve in that 2150 should open at 6” or so, depending on what one you have, and bring the AFR back to 14ish. What vacuum readings are you seeing?

That’s excellent news! Well done!