Gary Lewis

Alright Sir! Helping moving one of my sons this weekend, will modify that when come back home. Stay tuned! Thanks! But there is no hurry, what so ever.

I don't think mine has a float, but can you show a pic of that? And glad you made it home and have no leaks.

Ok, no jinxing. I'll just pray for you. My MC doesn't have that switch - maybe it should. Glad it worked to alert you. Be safe.

I'll bet you can make it work. Maybe we need to set up a place to store gasket files on here. That way if someone gets a gasket designed we could all use it.

I think the good news easily outweighs the bad news. Congrat's!

Yikes! It looks like the little guy took the brunt of it.

Yep, the PDB is wide open, but the room under the hood is chock-a-block. Not expecting to put anything else under the hood, and probably not in the PDB. I'll see what I have that might be able to measure the current, but that is a good idea. If I knew what the alternator can put out at idle then I'd have a better idea of what the system can handle.

And, while you ponder the new hypothesis I'll show you what I did this afternoon. Drawn up in CAD, printed and laminated, and stuck in the lid. And I printed a page to put in the documentation binder that resides in the truck.

Glad you got it sorted.

Bummer! Sorry. But, as you said, it could have been worse.

As said earlier, the whole part number is D8TZ 7526-B. You can probably find them by searching, which should bring up hits on Rear Counter, the Ford dealership organization. And since those where used starting in 1978 for many years they are probably still available.

Gary, I totally agree. This 145' covered bridge was built in 1918. The Government signage («restoration work for this heritage bridge») has about a year now. Phase one of works are supposed to begin next winter, to stabilize the bridge. Next phase supposed to be in 2023, in order to restore it. Without pressure of the citizens, pretty sure the Ministry of Transportation would have decided to destroy it. I'm glad that the bridge wasn't destroyed and that eventually it will be rebuilt.

1985 appears to be the transition year. Stripes had been used prior - in addition to dots and hashes. Ford just eliminated the dots and hashes for 1986.

Looks great, Jonathan.

Good job, Larry! (In spite of the spill.) Thanks for documenting it, including the part numbers, as others are sure to want to follow in your steps.

Good luck!

In my post above you missed the "And for reference, this is from our page at Documentation/Driveline/Clutches & Linkage." Aka "The Bullnose Library".

If 7526 isn't it, can you show where they are supposed to be by drawing on that illustration?

They don't show in my post?

That's great, Bill! Can you farm out replacing the guides and then resurface the seats concentric to the new guides?

Ok, I have a completely new hypothesis: The setpoint for the regulator is coming down as the temp of the regulator goes up as it assumes the battery is seeing the same temp. But there's reserve left in the alternator, even at the idle RPM being used. I've come to that conclusion based on the chart below. The battery voltage had drifted down to 13.2V just prior to me moving the truck and the RPM was steady at about 800. I came out on the clutch w/o giving it gas and the idle went down to 506 and the battery voltage went down to 12.9. But then 3.5 seconds later, after the LRC time, the voltage went to 13.6V even though the RPM didn't quite get back to 800. Then in the middle of the chart I came out again on the clutch and the RPM dropped to 436. Sure enough in 2.4 seconds the voltage went up to 13.5, and then dropped to the setpoint of 13.2 even though the RPM went up 1177. So I think we are seeing the setpoint coming down due to temperature, but the alternator still isn't maxed out even at the slow idle I'm using. I don't know how much reserve is left, but it might well be enough for electric fans. If I had one of the fans I could easily test that and we'd know.

Jim - Yes, it is expected that the coolant temp will come up when just idling around. But when I had the grandtwins driving the idle didn't increase since I had that table all messed up and the temp didn't come down. That's why I changed the table and tested it yesterday. And I'm sure that raising the idle speed incrementally as it did yesterday won't effect the driveability. The changes came in 16 RPM increments, which are pretty subtle. In fact, the actual idle RPM shows +/- swings of about that much when the desired idle RPM is holding at a steady state. So even idling around on a Jeep trail I doubt we'll ever feel the idle speed change. But my comment about not going with electric cooling fans really has nothing to do with this specific alternator. I'm just saying that the load the A/C and inverter, which I have on whenever the engine is running, is about all that the alternator can keep up with at the idle RPM I'm running. I don't have a way to increase idle RPM based on voltage so can't raise the alternator output to keep up with fans. But even if I could it apparently takes quite an increase in RPM to raise the voltage as it kept going down steadily even with the RPM going up from 640 to 800. On the other hand I can increase the idle RPM based on ECT, and that proved to effectively increase the cooling. So I think I'm right where I need to be - I have an electrical system that handles the load I'm placing on it, even at idle. And a cooling system that keeps the engine cool enough when the ECU raises the idle RPM based on ECT. Bill - It is a thermal fan clutch as I've noticed that it makes a lot more noise at some times than at others. But I can't say that it is working perfectly. Is there a way to effectively test that? EDIT EVEN BEFORE POSTING: I've zoomed in on the chart and am going to create another post to show what I'm seeing...

Thanks, Keith. I'm glad to see that the website/catalog will change. I'll start using it again when it does. Basically the issue has been twofold. First, we can't link to a page to show someone what he/she is looking for. So I use the catalogs of the other suppliers, which do allow me to link to a specific page or part number. Second, I know that those bushings, for instance, are generic and were used for many years so I don't need to tell the catalog what year vehicle I have. Since the other sites don't require me to enter that info then why use a catalog that does? Trust me, I have nothing against Long Motor Company. Just its catalog.

Looking good! And those bearing clearances are great. Should have good oil pressure and a long life.

I will check today, but I'm sure that the Y/W wire is seeing battery voltage. And I'll also check to see that the alternator isn't getting hot. Plus I'll turn things on and off and see what the voltage does. But I'm pretty sure it is working as designed. The regulator takes the voltage up to 14.2 to ensure the batteries are fully charged, but then drops the voltage to 13.7 after a few minutes to keep from boiling them dry. However, one concern I have is that the reduced voltage also reduces the light from the headlights. Lamptech says "Within the normal range of supply voltage variations the light output will change by about 3.5% for a 1% change of voltage." But a bit of research seems to say that most automotive bulbs are rated at 12.8V, so while 14+ volts would give more light, 13.7v is already 7% high. And the Lamptech site says "The effect of voltage on life is much more pronounced; 5% over-voltage will roughly halve the lamp life, whereas 5% under-voltage will approximately double it." So, maybe what I have is exactly what I need?