Gary Lewis

Greensboro! Been there many times. General Dynamics was a client of mine and I had staff at their site there doing their IT. You are now on the map.

You don't even need a connector. You could use a switch as you are right, all that does is take the computer's ability to change the timing away and put you on base timing. So if you want a later style connector go for it.

I agree, that's a replacement carb and ported vs manifold will be a discussion. I like ported, especially with an auto tranny. But it isn't as critical with a manual. On the timing, while 8 BTDC is factory, I usually go for 10 or 12. However, if you do that you need to make sure your Duraspark box supports the retard function during starting as the engine may kick back.

Shannon - Glad you joined. That's a really great looking truck. I hope you get the issues sorted, easily and quickly, and get to drive it soon. You might want to start a thread about getting it into shape in either the main section or Projects. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or zip.

From what I could tell Motorcraft and Autolite used the same numbering and below is two pages of breaking down the Motorcraft spark plug numbering system. Heres the Autolite break down, 5 heat range is your normal heat range, 4 is your colder heat range, and 6 is your hotter heat range no different than how Motorcraft does with higher number equate to a hotter heat range. Only thing is I am running a 4 heat range on my 302 build since it is a daily driver and AFR recommended the 4 heat range as a starting point. I may upgrade to the 5 heat range but may stick with the 4 heat range as it will shed heat quicker to the cylinder head keeping the plug cooler. Guys - Thanks for all the information. But my only question was whether to use NGK 2771 UR5's, which is supposedly equivalent to the Autolite 24's in the pictures, or go with the colder NGK 7773 UR6. And I am going to take Bill's response of "I would, using Motorcraft, go to an ASF32C" as the answer. But since I want to run NGK's I went to their site and found that the ASF32C cross ref's to their 2771 UR5, as shown below. So unless I have my plug wires crossed I'm going back with essentially the same temp plug as I've been running. And if I have that wrong please tell me soon as I'm going to the part store at 8 AM tomorrow.

Thanks, Jim. I do have 7 & 8 separated. And yes, NGK takes Autolite to task over there numbering system. And I do understand that it is hard to know how one company's "step" equates to another. So unless Bill has better guidance I think I may go with NGK UR5's. Bill?

You knew where I was going. So I'm at a loss as to why you are seeing what you are seeing.

Thanks, Bill. I do have the plug wires run close to what you suggested, but don't have #7 between 5 & 6. I'll fix that. Good idea on the after dark test. I've even in the past used a spray bottle to mist a bit of water on the wires to see if that makes a difference. (I've seen them look like a circus.) But I have a question, and since you'll probably see this in response to your post I'm tagging Jim: The NGK 2771 UR5 is one step colder than their 6630 UR4, which is stock. But is the UR5 truly equivalent to the Autolite 24, which is said to be one step colder than the Autolite 25 that is stock. IOW, might the NGK UR5 be colder than the Autolite 24's and be just right? Or are you suggesting that I go with the NGK 7773 UR6, which is two steps colder than the 6630 UR4?

Here's that you make it, Bob. But I'll bet that you will. And it looks like things are going well at this stage. Hopefully that will continue as you set the gears up. And I hope that the parts you need are in stock. GOOD LUCK!

Thanks, Dane. I'm hoping it is one of the plugs since I'm going to change them anyway. Would sure be an easy solution. Those pics were taken after we drove the truck home 30 miles at highway speeds with very little idling. So it is possible that it only acts up at idle, although I'm not sure what would cause that.

You have a point, Rusty. My test with the DVOM didn't test the insulation, so it is possible that one of the wires is breaking down and shorting to ground under certain conditions. Once I get it back together I'll put the ignition scope on it to see if the problem is still there. If so the scope will show me which cylinder it is and I can do more troubleshooting, including swapping out the plug wire. As for the plug chart, I'd say my plugs are all in the Good range.

Nice, most of the radiators I looked at are out of stock as I really want to replace mine instead of trying to flush it out for the new engine. Everything I found that might work is out of stock or has been discontinued. Not sure how good these are but Radiator Express has a listing for a Cold-Case wide tube 2 core radiator that cools like a 3 and 4 core aluminum radiator and they are stamped aluminum that once painted black will look no different than OE copper. They want $650 for it but on back order currently. Also doesnt cite what hp rating they are good for, just that its all aluminum, 100% tig welded with 16 fins per inch and is a direct fitment for 80-84 Truck and 81 - 84 bronco. https://www.radiatorexpress.com/product/RADIATOR/FORD/1982/F-150/base/50l-v8302cid/229493/1121296 There is also a listing for a 3 core copper radiator that is in stock for $466 and its the Radiator Express brand and yet again no mention of hp rating that all aftermarket radiators I have seen state. https://www.radiatorexpress.com/product/RADIATOR/FORD/1982/F-150/base/50l-v8302cid/39285/1121296 If I were to get one of the above I probably would go with the aluminum one just because it has an actual metal drain while the copper uses the cheap easily stripped out plastic drain. Which ever one I go with would have to be OE spec dimension wise as I am retaining OE mechanical fan so I need the attachment points for the OE fan shroud as I have no desire to cut and fabricate a mount. Last I looked the Champion 3-row aluminum radiator was available, and my 4-row took the factory shroud perfectly so I'm sure the 3-row would also.

Typically the ECU will throw a code if the O2 sensor appears to be flakey. So it isn't likely that you are running very lean if the light isn't on. How about ignition timing? You have the SPOUT connector in? What's your base set to?

So I have one notch colder plug. Stock NGKs would be NGK 6630 (UR4), but this NGK site says hotter is a smaller number. So now I'm trying to figure out which of the numbers needs to be bigger. I'm guessing the "4" in UR4 needs to be 5. Anyone know? Same plugs that AFR recommended to start off with on my AFR 165 Renegade heads, I have a set of Autlite 3924`s installed till I do break in and I check the plugs to see if I need to go up or down on the plugs or leave them be. AFR seems to think the 3924`s are most likely the right ones to run with their heads. Jim - I do have some dielectric grease so I'll use that. Thanks. As for testing on the exhaust, I'm not sure that it'll show up there since it appears to be running, just not the same as the other cylinders. But I'll check it that way if it still shows one cylinder is acting strange when I get the plugs in. Rusty - I'm moving to the NGK's, assuming I can find them quickly, but these Autolite 24's sure do look nice and clean. However, I'm hoping that one of them is flakey as I can't find the problem elsewhere. I checked the plug wires and they measured as follows in K ohms, from #1 to #8: 7.3; 7.7; 9.7; 12.6; 10.6K; 8.1; 12.1; & 11.1. I twisted and pulled and couldn't get any of them to open up. But #6 @ 8.1K seems suspicious since it is essentially the same length as the #5 wire. I also checked the distributor cap. Looks essentially new. So I'm confused. If the plugs all look excellent, the plug wires seem to check out, and the distributor cap doesn't show any problems then what can be causing one cylinder to act that way?

Correct, youd still think they would at least offer it even if its a build to order. I personally dont like aluminum due to oxidation and I know about the electrolysis from work, the aluminum radiators we get from Enthropy comes with a port near the lower radiator hose for a Zinc anode as well as having a machine screw threaded on the hex head for attachment of a ground strap to ground the radiator to prevent electrolysis. For me I just cant justify $600 for an aluminum radiator for our trucks when a copper one would cost roughly the same. Plus every aluminum radiator I found for our trucks were universal fit that requires drilling holes in the core support to mount it like a GM radiator as they dont have provisions for the OE strap mounts. With the aluminum that a stock engine has such as the aluminum timing cover you really should be running a zinc anode to protect your cooling system. It is why I had to buy a new timing cover for my 302 build cause the old one was nearly pitted through and through and I didnt trust it on a new engine. The Champion MC1451 4-row aluminum radiator I have in Big Blue cost $305 and fit without modification of any kind. Unfortunately they are out of stock at the moment, but with a lifetime warranty I'll buy one for Dad's truck when the time comes.

They are all showing 74F right now. And I'm too lazy to put these used plugs back to test. Lots easier to ohm out the wires. Btw, is it ok to spray the inside of the plug boots with silicone spray? Some of them were a bear to get off.

I'm going to put my DVOM on the wires and see if there is anything obvious. And check the cap. Then after I get new plugs and install them I'll use my ignition scope and see if the problem is still there and which cylinder it is. If it is still there and I know which cylinder I'll swap a plug wire with used ones I have. But I got these from Scotty and don't remember what brand they are.

Yes, I got the "5 is colder" bit. But got lost elsewhere. However, I think I understand, so let me see: 6630 UR4 is stock 2771 UR5 is one step colder 7773 UR6 is two steps colder than the UR4 Right? If so I'll check with Skiatook Auto Parts tomorrow and see if he has them. Thanks! Meanwhile I've been texting with my nephew. He also liked the plug pics. And he said "I sure like NGK best. Pretty much never have an early failure with them." But that leaves plug wires and the cap to check as there is some problem with the ignition on one cylinder.

I got lost. So if I want a colder plug than a 6630 (UR4) then what do I look for? I tried to get the robot at NGK to tell me that, but he wouldn't go there and tried to refer me to a human - on July 4th.

Thanks, Jim. Seems to me that the temp is about right. These are 24's and the stock one would be a 25. This Autolite site says: So I have one notch colder plug. Stock NGKs would be NGK 6630 (UR4), but this NGK site says hotter is a smaller number. So now I'm trying to figure out which of the numbers needs to be bigger. I'm guessing the "4" in UR4 needs to be 5. Anyone know?

Thanks, Dane. It doesn't look like the engine is hard on plugs as these have maybe 5000 miles on them. I don't see anything that raises my eyebrows. Yes, they are light, but one side of each plug is lighter than the other. Maybe they are too hot? Here's what I'm calling Side 1, with them laying as they would be in the engine, meaning #1 on the lower left and #8 on the upper right: And here's the flip side, still as they'd be on the engine:

They are in firing order, but who knows which cylinder is showing first on the screen as he didn't put a pickup on #1, just the coil wire. This was just the one screengrab he sent me, but others that we looked at were a bit different in that the one cylinder was wonky and the other seven cylinders were all alike. And since the ECU was playing with the AFR during all of this he suggested I not worry about the cylinders that appear to be lean. Instead go figure out what is wrong with that one cylinder. And obviously it is the plug, the wire, or the cap. But the plug seems the most likely given the conversation starting back here when I told y'all that I'd put Autolite 24's in. For instance, Jim said "You've been warned about Autolites!" (In my defense they are what Scotty recommended.) It makes sense to start by pulling the plugs, but I don't want to put them back as I want to put new plugs in. So let's (all) go back over the "which plug" bit. This engine is basically a stock '96 460 but with a bit more compression and cam. Plus headers. And it is running a stock ignition system. So is that enough to suggest a non-stock plug? Rock Auto says that these are stock copper plugs for that engine: Autolite 25; Champion 18 or 4018; NGK 6630 (UR4); & probably Motorcraft ASF42 since the ASF42P is the stock platinum plug. Any favorites there? Any reason to go to a platinum plug? (I know you've had trouble with them, Bill, but in what application?)

Bill - That makes sense. I'll have to think about that, but so far I don't have a problem and rarely get into stop and go traffic.

Yes, 1500 may be too low. Not sure where you are driving on the 3 hour trip, but if it is through hills there's going to be some shifting going on. But that is quite a jump from 1500 to 2700. If the AFR is too lean you'll have a lack of power until you push the throttle enough to cause the carb to lift the needle. But if that is past the point where you downshift then it is moot.

And, on top of the ground problem there's another one lurking. My nephew and I inadvertently found it on Saturday. He has a neat oscilloscope system from Pico. It is an electronic box about the size of a small paperback book and it has several connections on it. Most are for power and sensors, and one is for USB to a laptop. He hooked up to Big Blue and since we wanted to correlate the alternator's output with RPM he put the spark pickup on the coil/dizzy wire. Later when we were reviewing the logs he spotted something and pointed it out, whereupon I did some counting and pointed something else out. What do y'all see? Bill - I tagged you to make sure you see this, as I think we'll have a conversation.