Gary Lewis

I'm glad that removing the pressure is making it fun again. That's the whole idea! And I'm glad you have the t-case in and tightened down. I'll bet the link will be easy.

There's no way for me to tell if E0TZ 7228-C is the right one from the master parts catalog because it just doesn't show in the one I have on this computer. And it probably doesn't show in the 1982 version I have on microfiche since the new number was E2TZ, and that obviously replaced whatever the E0TZ # was. But, I do have a cross reference from ID # to part number so should be able to cross that E0TA-CWA or CWB in the Description field to a part number. Let me see... Yep! The 1980 cross-ref says that E0TA-CWA and CWB both cross to E0TZ 7228-C!

The first 20 minutes are critical as the cam and lifters need to mate to each other. And the guidance I've seen says to hold ~2000 RPM for those 20 minutes. After that there's a period of time during which the bearings need to bed and the rings need to seat. The rings need some pressure on them in order to do that. So that's why they say that there needs to be acceleration to put pressure on them, but then backing off to allow things to cool. There is no definitive "period of time", but that's where the 500 mile figure comes from.

That's true, Jim. I don't think I had to modify the linkage on Big Blue. Just on Dad's truck. I'll look in a day or two to see what I did to BB.

From our page at Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns & Wheels, the illustration below you can see base part number 7228. That's the one you mean, correct? If so, then you would normally turn to the tab on that page called Part Numbers, but I didn't have that information on that tab. I'll put it there. However, here 'tis for now. And I don't see E0TZ 7228-C as one of the part numbers. However, in the "tilt" description there's an E0TA, so there was an E0TZ, but I don't know that it is 7228-C. So I'd say you want E2TZ 7228-C.

Jein. Sorry, that's German slang for yes and no. The linkage will fit, but it won't work quite right. That's because the pivot point is in a slightly different position and the linkage needs to be a bit longer. Here's how I've done that:

Not a lot to report today as we ran errands. But I did get a stick of 1 1/4" square tubing with which to make the spacer. And here are some pics to 'splain how this is going to go. In this view we are looking from the center of the vehicle towards the driver's seat and we have the seat track on the bottom and the wedge on the top. The wedge is made out of sheet metal formed into a U with a notch cut out to clear the seat latch mechanism. And in this pic the wedge is rolled 1/4 turn off the track and you can more easily see the notch cut in it. I'll be using square tubing to make my spacer but will mill a similar notch in it to clear the latch and will weld nuts in to hold it to the track.

Sorry, the email system appears to be broken, but usually works. When you are ready to send an email tick the box that sends you a copy. That way you'll know if it goes. As for how to post the current stuff, or even where to post, that is really up to you as we don't have any guidelines on that. It is basically how each person wants to do it. My thinking, and the way I usually do it, is to put everything regarding Big Blue's transformation in the thread so titled. That way I know where it is, and since I have to go back frequently to find things that way I know where they are. However, there are exceptions. The never-ending style of Big Blue's Transformation thread has caused many people to discontinue following along. So when I want input from as many people as possible I start a new thread about that specific topic. For instance the thread entitled New Tires For Big Blue, and by creating a new thread I've gotten input from people that wouldn't have seen the question in the other thread. And then there's the question of where. I put mine in the main section, but some want theirs in Projects. Again, it is how/where each person wants to do it. We are laid back.

David - To give you a bit more of an idea about the tires, here's the left front. It was the worst of them for cracking, but not the worst for having chunks taken out by the rocks.I think the issue is that the tires are 10 years old and are hard. So when we aired them down to 15 psi for running the trails they had to flex a lot and they just weren't up for that and cracked. And then when the hard rubber edges of the tread came in contact with the rocks on the trail chunks were torn out.As said, I don't want to drive all that far and fast on them. I've been ok with day trips as we could get home on the spare. But I don't want to take off for multiple days and have problems on Day 1 and wind up ruining the trip.

The ones on there are marginally road worthy. I've taken the worst one off and replaced it with the spare as I didn't trust it at all. While I'm ok running around "locally" as we have and are with these, I don't want to put them on the turnpike for that 360 mile run down & back to Red Rock state park. Much less the 1500 mile round trip to Santa Fe we are planning for October - not including the running around we'll do nor the 227 miles of the Carson - Santa Fe Backcountry Discovery Trail we are planning. So they really need to be replaced. And I want to have a set of tires that will do everything we want to do with the truck. Obviously one set won't do everything "the best" when you combine on and off-roading, but it does appear that there are tires that will do both adequately.

Ha! You guys remind me of Stan and Ollie. Would you consider plain steel wheels? I'm running Wheel Vintiques 82-680804 on Big Blue.

Amen, brother! And it is only $10.

I'm glad you got the help you needed here, and that the wire and selector valve fixed the problem. On the shocks, I like my Bilsteins on Big Blue, but also like the Sensatracs I put on Dad's truck. So if they have the Load Assist option for them, that's what I'd do on the rear. And I'd probably just go with Sensatracs on the front. But you can call Monroe and ask. That's what I did when shopping for shocks on Dad's truck and the guy was very helpful and gave good advice.

On our page at Documentation/HVAC/HVAC Systems it looks like you need E0TZ 18518-A. Doing a Google search for that brings me right back to this forum, but the adverts that David found are now gone. My suggestion would be to take what you have left to a lawnmower shop and see if they can put a new part in your housing.

Thanks! I fixed it.

First, you are welcome. Second, you've been mapped. Third, wonderful work! Well done!

Welcome! Glad you joined. I see "Wilmington" in the FTE, and later in your thread saw "NC". Would you like to be on our map? (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu.) Man, that cab corner looks AWFUL! And the bed and many other places weren't much better. You really took on a big project. How about posting some recent pics?

Ok guys, I'm going to tag all three of you. Somehow I missed that you asked for these. The are out there now and I just have to put them in order...

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