Gary Lewis

Here's the result of testing the Garmin Montana 750i in the yard, left, and then in the truck on the right. Yes, the signal strength is down some, but not enough to worry about. So I'm in the process of installing its mount on the transmission hump.

It was Megiddo that recognized it.

Ding, ding, ding! We have a winner! It looks like that is C240 for the Ignition Key/Seat Belt/Headlamps "On" warning buzzer.

I think that is an air cleaner off a 460 as they had a back door like that. But I don't know for sure as I don't have one of those air cleaners. Perhaps someone that does can confirm. Anyway, I can't find in the master parts catalog a number for that vacuum motor. However, there is probably a number on it, so if you drill the rivets and pull it out I'll bet we can figure it out.

Thanks for the info.

Ahhh! That makes sense. Today's plan is to see how many satellites the Garmin sees outside of the truck, and then how many it sees when down where I want to put it. If that seems to work then I'll mount it and connect it to the Sony stereo. That way we should have turn-by-turn guidance if we want it, and the Garmin will be charged as we drive.

If you have the HVAC box out, now is the perfect time to replace the hinge. It isn't a question of if it will fail, but when.

Water head? Is that what it is called? Yes, it was the perfect solution. Thanks, I like the seats and the console. They really make the truck better for long trips. Not only are the seats very comfortable, but the console is so functional. I'd like to move it back a bit, but not right now. Maybe when I make the new base as then it'll be easy.

I don't know. I don't have any info that I'm aware of that shows how they were painted. If I do I hope someone will point it out to me.

I got the seat spacers done and installed. Here's a shot of them after trimming and powder coating. Note the button-headed cap screws in the center - more of which later. And here's how the seat fits. Neither the back nor the bottom are leaned back as much as the passenger's seat is. It feels good and gives more room than it did before. And, it goes back all the way and locks into the last notch on the rails. Ok, remember the statement about the button-headed cap screws? Turns out that they were just exactly what was needed to allow the seat to go back to the last notch. In the pic on the left, below, you can see where I used them, and you can see the track almost up to it that the roller makes. In the pic on the right, which is looking into the rail, you can see that fastener and above it a part of the carrier assembly for the roller - and you can see the roller in the background. With a hex-headed bolt the carrier goes over the head but the roller hits the head and stops short of the last notch. With a regular socket-headed cap screw the carrier hits the head and stops. But with these screws nothing hits and the rails go back to the last notch and stop.

Yep, it is just money. And when you are talking about engines, there's a lot of money involved.

The drawings did help and I think I understand that. As for the distributor, I think I understand. But do you have to move the HEP's or can you just rewire them?

I'm running L&L long tubes. But I had to trim the frame 1/4" to get them to fit.

In my case the guy admitted they were wrong, but I already knew that 'cause it had the wrong fitting. And, every single piece had to be re-bent.

Yikes! While talking about fuel systems (I know that's the other thread), the Bullnose sending units have a totally different resistance range and it is backwards from the later sending units. And sending units are keyed to the tank, so you don't want to put a later unit in your tank or vice versa.

I'd hate to send anyone to Inline Tube. My experience with them was awful.

I should have asked why your ECU is laying on the transmission hump?

We are good.

No problem, it happens. Glad you joined and like the site. On the fuel lines, I ordered new nylon lines and fittings and made all new ones for Big Blue.

Welcome! Again. Do you go by KG or? Nice looking truck. Hope you'll start a thread or threads so we can follow your progress. Where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or zip.

Ditto my previous reply. Have you read the guidelines?

Welcome! Glad you joined. But you may have missed the email I sent you asking you to make your first post in the New Member's Start Here folder - after reading the guidelines which are posted there. We do that because we hold everyone to the guidelines and want you to have had a good chance to read them. So can you confirm that you've read them? If so we are good to go.

Load Range is a classification that describes how much weight a tire can carry. Same thing as Load rating as youa re calling it, its based on an older measurement called ply rating. The KO2s I run are a C1 load range which is 6 ply rating with a max load carrying air pressure of 50 psi. Load Index is another way to describe in more detail a tires carrying capacity, in the case of the KO2s I run it has a load index of 109 which translates into 2,271 lbs carrying capacity. Yes they are not the same but you keep talking about load rating which I believe you mean Load Range and talking about pounds it can carry yet the Load Range is just the rating of the tire, ply wise and pressure wise and has nothing to do with the weight carrying capacity of the tire. That falls under the Load Index. As far as ride quality goes, you want to get as low a ply tire that can carry your load with a cushion for safety. Sure you can go with a 10 ply tire and run lower pressure but that 10 ply tire is a stiffer side wall than a 6 ply tire hence why you can run lower pressure. It would negate the purpose of seeking a softer ride to go with a stiffer side wall tire with the goal of running less air pressure to achieve the same carrying capacity. I am running 6 ply tires at 35 psi and the carrying capacity at 35 psi exceeds the total gvw of my truck by a good 1,100 lbs which means I would never hit that weight on my truck without doing serious damage to not only my suspension but over loading the trucks designed capacity. So the belief that you will get better ride quality with a 11 ply sidewall tire running at 35 psi vs a 6 ply sidewall tire running at 35 psi is laughable. Sure the 11 ply will carry more weight at 35 psi than the 6 ply but you dont need that carrying capacity if the 6 ply at 35 psi already exceeds the design capacity of the truck by 1,000 lbs. I pulled the trigger on the Falken WildPeak A/T3W's today. The local tire company, Tate Boys, has them on order and expects them to come in on Monday. So I'm set up to take the truck in 1st thing on Tuesday. Thanks for all the input. I really appreciate it and it certainly helped me think through things, including tire pressures. I'm planning on running much more pressure, but I don't know how much just yet. I've found a scale that is somewhat local where I can weigh the truck for $13 and then weigh just one axle for another $3. So I'm going to do that in order to have a better idea of what weight the tires are carrying, which will let me work out what the minimum pressure(s) should be.

I started checking those colors and jumped to the conclusion that you found the headlight switch connector. But then I looked at one of mine and it isn't that one. However, several of those wires are also in the headlight connector. If I have the colors right, the R/Y is headlights, the Bk/Pk is courtesty/dome lights, and the Br is exterior lamps. Can you tell me what all of the colors are, inc any traces or dots?