Gary Lewis

Wow! The seats look great!

Unless you get more surface area in the brakes, like larger discs and/or larger pads it isn’t likely that changing the type of boost from vacuum to hydraulic will give you more braking ability. It will change the feel, but not the overall braking ability. Having said that, I don’t know what is in those kits. Do they come with larger front discs and/or pads? Maybe they do but with my grandkids visiting I’ve not had time to check.

Have you replaced the rubber hoses? On Dad’s truck they were so porous that they allowed air in, killing the pump’s vacuum. It would run ok for a few miles and then stall. There’s a hose from the tank to the steel line on the frame, and one from the steel line to the pump.

Wow! That’s a LOT of change! But glad you are back, and that have another project. With as quickly as you Togo through them you must have a wealth of knowledge!

I like that, Jim. Much better than a fuse.

Wow! It looks like he IS earning his keep. But I'll bet he'd like to stretch his legs a bit.

Excellent! I knew you would love them as I'm confident that I'm not imagining the difference. Big!

I hope you love them as much as I do mine. They are very adjustable and quite precise. And on high they light up the road far ahead. As for having someone ask that I dim them, it hasn’t happened yet - in spite of the fog lights being on with either setting of the headlights.

Wow! Those seats are wonderful! I’d love to have a pair of those. Bummer on the tooth and COVID! Hope you get over COVID quickly with no long-term effects. (I still have shortness of breath at times.) And I hope the tooth gets repaired easily.

Yes, it is looking good! POR makes a filler for small holes, and POR15 itself will seal really small holes. But, as you've probably found, you want to have some cardboard under the truck as some will drip through.

Well done, Jonathan! That's even better than I'd imagined. And using the truck for bending is ingenious. You are certainly thinking well.

Well done!!!

I used 6Ga wire (big pipeline to not loose current, long 14’ run). I think the second model would fit nice. Gary, why not install this fuse at the other end, in the cabin, instead of weather/dirt engine compartment? The fuse needs to be as close as is reasonable to the source of the power. It protects the wire downstream of it. So if you put it in the cab and have a short between there and the starter relay the fuse won't blow and the wire will burn - and maybe even catch the truck on fire. The smaller fuse holders have #10 wire on them, and that's a lot smaller than your #6 wire. It would work if you keep the wires to it short, but it isn't ideal. The Wirebarn calculator says that your choice of #6 will give more than a 2% voltage drop with your 28' of wire run - you have to include supply and return. At 40A #6 is only good for 17' at a 2% drop, although at a 5% drop it is good for 44'. So interpolating it looks like each % gets 9', making a 3% drop good for 26', which is still a bit shy of your 28'. And the #10 wire in the fuse won't help that. Personally I'd be more interested in the first stud-style holder and this 40A fuse to go in it. You should be able to use the existing ring-tongue terminal on the wire to connect to the stud of the fuse, and then make a short jumper from the other stud to the relay. That way you won't have to cut into your existing wire nor try to connect #6 to #10. And you can mount the fuse holder right by the relay to make it clean.

There are two 40A fuses, plus ON/OFF switch. Looks good for me, but should I add a fuse on the positive wire, just in case of accidental shorting? If so, what AMP? Yes, you want a fuse on the wire close to the starter relay. And 40A should be enough since that's what the inverter is fused at. This is the fuse holder I bought, but it is overkill for your application. What size of wire did you use? These fuse holders might be more appropriate if the wire is large enough.

Welcome, Jason. You are now on the map.

Yes, I like it as well.

Yippee!!! Almost ready to GO!

Wow! I wouldn't have thought that they'd send that much smaller of a pulley, but they obviously did. That may account for the extra output at low R's. And yes, the voltage difference is due to the regulator. There are several different settings, and some of them have voltage reductions based on temp. But glad it is working!

Welcome! Glad you joined. Where is home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can add you with a city/state or zip. As for your questions, I'll see what I can do, with my answers in bold:

Yep. All of the above.

I didn’t take it as derogatory, Jim.

Gary, we architects can fortunately rely on engineers for these trivial mechanical and electrical questions. But some if us probably have a bit of engineering genes, and are interested to understand the basics (no more, thanks). That’s my case. So, I sketched a simplistic diagram and now understand that I was seeing the Starter ground. It’s a chance that the light tester has a good resistance, otherwise jumping the Relay could have start the engine. More seriously, I am wondering why there is not uniquely the starter circuit linked to this Relay pole. What other circuits have to run only when the Relay trigger is closed? Yes, the test light has a relatively high resistance and the very low resistance of the starter acts as a good ground for the test light. But it wouldn't be a good ground for the inverter as it has a much lower effective resistance. In fact, a big enough inverter might actually cause the starter to turn, although not enough to start the engine. As for circuits that are powered off the rear post of the relay, I don't believe there should be any. The '85 EVTM doesn't show any and I can't think of anything that should be powered then. Perhaps one or more of the fuse links have accidentally been moved there at some point? Can you determine the colors of the wires? Show us a close-up pic? I might not get back to this very quickly as my grandtwins are visiting and I'm spending most of my time with them. But others can help. And I'll be back as soon as I can.

Jeff - The ground you are seeing is the starter motor. But it isn't where you want your ground to be as it isn't a good ground, and not ground at all when starting. However, just take that wire to the battery's ground. Dane - Most inverters I've looked at are good for twice their rating a startup. The 3KW one I got from Jim will start 6KW worth of load, but won't carry more than 3KW for long. And it isn't a pure sine wave, but everything I've ever tried on it has worked, save for the power supply for the Microsoft tablet. All else, the compressor, a Keurig, and power supplies for this Dell laptop and my Sony camera, as well as Ridgid battery chargers have all worked.

The supplier's don't say that theirs is a PMGR starter. You just need to find one for a truck that came from Ford with one. Mid-90's.