Gary Lewis

If I remember correctly there are two bolts holding the bracket on to the engine. There's a really long one that goes through the bracket, and my arrow that points "up" in the picture is trying to point to it. And then there should be another one below that which cannot be seen in the picture. Also, there's the bolt that my other arrow points to that you loosen to tighten the tension on the belt. You'll need to loosen that before you remove the other two bolts to take the tension off the belt, and then when you put the pump back on you'll have to re-tension the belt.

Welcome! Glad you joined. That is a VERY nice truck! I'm so glad you are keeping it in the family and didn't do irreversible mods to it. (But I do like the mods you've done.) That is a special truck. So, where in central Tejas? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city. As for truly meeting people, come up to the show in exactly a month. The forum members will have a meal together the night before and then we'll attend the show the next day. I've attached the flyer to the show.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Let's see some pics of that truck? You might want to go to Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's to see how best to do that. And speaking of seeing things, you have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and we can add you if you'd like.

Still following, but I understand doing side work for others. Life isn't ALL about Ford trucks.

Bob - Those balls and races aren't "gone", but sure don't look good. And particularly the balls. Glad you are replacing them. Hope you get things together today.

Glad you guys got it sorted. Thanks, Jeff, for the help.

Yes, this thread is in the main forum, so you got it right. Plus, I'm glad you are getting logged in correctly. And you are replying to the posts correctly. However, this forum is unusual in that people have to subscribe to get notified by email, so Jim or Chris might not be notified. Hopefully Chris will be back to answer your questions. But calibration codes are quasi vehicle specific. However Chris might have the calibration info for his truck and if his is the same as yours that info should work.

Glad your holiday went so well! On the oil spot, it isn't unusual for a rear main seal leak on the engine to drip off of the transmission at the torque converter. So it might not be the transmission itself that is leaking. And it isn't too unusual for a rear main seal to drip a bit now and then. Big Blue's does from time to time. On the noise, I can't imagine what it is, but doubt that a dent in the tire would do that. Are you sure your front hubs are unlocked? And I'm looking forward to seeing what you are going to do on the subwoofer.

Yep. Powder coating works very well. But you can do almost as well with a satin clear spray paint. And it could probably be put over the decal.

A return regulator is better than the vapor separator. It circulates gas to keep it cool and at the same time keeps the proper pressure in the system. I used this one from Holley.

Yep, I bought commercial quality Velcro (with very strong sticky backing). I’m confident that this inverter (it’s quite lightweight and doesn’t come hot) will stay in place. And if needed, I can detach it and move it. Interesting strategy! I take note of it!

Glad you got it done, Jeff. Hopefully it was as easy as described. As for the discount, they give me one each year as we've been doing this several years. Unfortunately last year we had it on Labor Day weekend so there wasn't much of a discount. But this year they did us right.

Glad you got it figured out and that there's no problem. You said the fuel gauge is NOS, so you haven't seen it work before. Apparently it is sensitive and small changes register more on it than the old gauge.

You got in! And you did that about 30 minutes before I answered today's email from you. Well done! And I'm also sure Chris can help you. But if you can find the calibration code for your truck I can find the parts list for you. The calibration code will be on a sticker like shown below:

I don't know enough about it to comment. But I'm anxious to see what others think as well as how it drives.

Bill/85lebaront2 and I are both running later EEC-V EFI with MAF, sequential injection, & OBD-II. That compares to the previous EFI system that runs "speed density", bank-fire injection, and the original OBD. But it wasn't a slam dunk. I'm not sure exactly how Bill did it, but I interfaced the EEC-V system to the Bullnose wiring, and that took some work. I used an engine wiring harness and ECU from a later truck. And there were things we modified, like not using catalytic converters and, in my case, no EGR. So we had to modify the parameters in the ECU, and that took purchasing Binary Editor software & a Mongoose cable, and learning to use them.

I should also say that I'm giving y'all first shot at the rooms, but on the 16th I'll remind people on all the FB pages I'm on that the show will be in a month and let them also know about the reduced rates. Book 'em, Dano!

We now have a block of 10 rooms at the Osage Hotel & Casino for the nights of Friday, Sept 15th, and Saturday, September 16th. You can call the reservation department of the hotel 7 days a week, 8am-10pm CDT, at 918.624.8001 (not 877-246-8777 as they say the rooms are all booked), or you can go online to make reservations. The standard rate is $139/night but our group rate is $109/night. For Online Reservations: Go to www.osagecasino.com After selecting ‘Skiatook’ and your arrival and departure dates Hit enter On the next page at the top, select ‘Group Sign In’ Enter group code, TRUCKSHOW23, Select room type, enter guest information, and confirm reservation.

Jeff - That should work nicely. But are you going to secure the inverter some way so it doesn't slide around? As for that wire powering a larger inverter, yes and no. Using the wirebarn calculator your #6 wire is good for up to 80A and 22' of wire with a 5% voltage drop. But if I remember correctly you said you have 14' of wire for both positive and negative sides, for a total of 28'. However, you also said you left an extra 3' of wire, presumably both hot and ground, so if you trimmed that off you'd be right down to 22'. But, speaking of grounds, the way I wired my 3KW inverter was to use the frame as ground. In other words, I have maybe 18" of wire from the inverter to the frame, and the frame is grounded in many places to the engine and both batteries - as shown below. I'm not suggesting you need to do that much grounding. Nor really change anything right now. But if you do want a larger inverter you can cut your wire run by about 50% by using the frame as ground and ensuring your battery is well connected to the frame.

Gary, do you think this rejuvenating method could also be applied to the air filter cover? Yes, and no. You can certainly polish up one of the aluminum covers for the HO air cleaners and then powder coat it clear. I've done that. But I doubt the decal would stand the 425F temp, so it would have to go on the outside of the powder coat.

Gary, is this a short piece of pipe, conical welded? Yes. I put a short piece of pipe on there and welded/ground/welded/ground until I got what I wanted - a shape that could take a hit on a rock w/o knocking the plug off.

This is confusing, but here's what the 1991 Master Cross Reference List says, remembering that the Master Parts Catalog says you want "PN E1TZ 5D485-B for the R.H bracket and E1TZ 5D485-A for the L.H bracket": Identifaction # Part # E8TA 5C495-DA is E1TZ 5D485-B EDE1TA 5C495-AA is E1TZ 5D485-B E8TA 5D485-DA is E1TZ 5D485-A

When searching for some used ones, there was one carpeted pair on eBay (tan color). Not that I don’t like them, but my «as close as stock» sickness made me hesitate… and you should not hesitate too long about rare items. After 3-4 days, they were sold. Since I consider that it will be very useful for my road trip, I finally ordered these plastic repro. You are right, I am wondering about their fragility. Jeff - While I like the plastic ones I've found that almost all of the used ones I've seen are broken. And apparently that is because if you are standing outside the truck and the door swings shut the pocket is the first thing to hit your legs. That puts a lot of force along the top edge of the pocket where it is weakest and it cracks. I've repaired & upgraded some of them by epoxying a strip of metal under the top lip, laid in horizontally where it cannot be seen but offers considerable strength. I've not done it on new ones but vowed I would if I found new ones.

Chad - I know that you know that any number on a part is not a part number. Instead it is an ID #. The master parts catalog shows mainly part numbers, but does show a few ID #'s. Unfortunately your ID # of E8TA-5C495-DA doesn't show. However, the MPC does show PN E1TZ 5D485-B for the R.H bracket and E1TZ 5D485-A for the L.H bracket. Tomorrow I'll use the cross reference to see what PN E8TA-5C495-DA is.